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2017 Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, Fixin Premier Cru, Arvelets

From just shy of one hectare of vines planted between 1956-1980 on the upper part of the slope on limestone marl. Some whole clusters are retained, and fermented in concrete with gentle pump-overs and few punch-downs. Aged in 30% new oak.

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While we all enjoy the secretive aspect of knowing a region is remarkably better than its reputation, or lack thereof, it's about time that the wines of Fixin, and more importantly those of Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet are given their due. Amelie Berthaut is the newest and brightest generation to run the house that is the marriage of former Domaines Denis Berthaut and François Gerbet, where the family roots dig back several centuries within the village.

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet

A fresh, charming face in the wine world, the mid-30s Amelie took over at just 25; she burst onto the scene just as she had burst back into the family estate after her schooling, offering brilliant insight and passion right away, encouraging her father to hand her the reins. 

As her time in charge lengthens, the now fully-organic domaine has captivated all that have tasted the wines; there is a definite signature to Amelie's wines, and I wouldn't venture to say that it is one of any particular taste or aroma, but one of feel - they are stylish, elegant, airy even, in the best way possible. Fixin lies somewhere between Gevrey and Chambolle for me in terms of its style - red fruit, yes, but this floral, pink-fruited component that is unmistakable. Yet that finesse, that feel is felt throughout her wines from the Vosne and elsewhere. 

In the winery, Amelie will ferment in concrete before moving the wines into oak barrels that generally are between 0-25% new; the retaining of whole clusters will be up to 60%, and though rare, sometime none at all. There is no rubric to making the wine, but in her deep, cold cellar they mature incredibly slowly which helps to account for, what was it? Oh, that feel. 

Meet the Producer

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet

While we all enjoy the secretive aspect of knowing a region is remarkably better than its reputation, or lack thereof, it's about time that the wines of Fixin, and more importantly those of Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet are given their due. Amelie Berthaut is the newest and brightest generation to run the house that is the marriage of former Domaines Denis Berthaut and François Gerbet, where the family roots dig back several centuries within the village.

A fresh, charming face in the wine world, the mid-30s Amelie took over at just 25; she burst onto the scene just as she had burst back into the family estate after her schooling, offering brilliant insight and passion right away, encouraging her father to hand her the reins. 

As her time in charge lengthens, the now fully-organic domaine has captivated all that have tasted the wines; there is a definite signature to Amelie's wines, and I wouldn't venture to say that it is one of any particular taste or aroma, but one of feel - they are stylish, elegant, airy even, in the best way possible. Fixin lies somewhere between Gevrey and Chambolle for me in terms of its style - red fruit, yes, but this floral, pink-fruited component that is unmistakable. Yet that finesse, that feel is felt throughout her wines from the Vosne and elsewhere. 

In the winery, Amelie will ferment in concrete before moving the wines into oak barrels that generally are between 0-25% new; the retaining of whole clusters will be up to 60%, and though rare, sometime none at all. There is no rubric to making the wine, but in her deep, cold cellar they mature incredibly slowly which helps to account for, what was it? Oh, that feel. 


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

88-90

There is one barrel of the 2017 Fixin 1er Cru Les Hervelets, the first time this has been vinified separately—readers will remember that of these adjacent premiers crus, Hervelets can be sold as Arvelets but not vice versa. Fermented without any destemming, the wine offers up aromas of wild berries, peonies and cinnamon, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and silky palate, framed by fine but firm stem tannins that assert themselves on the finish. Berthaut reports that the wine started life quite hard but is becoming more supple with élevage.

Vinous

Vinous

90

The 2017 Fixin Les Arvelets 1er Cru has a taut, well-defined nose of black cherries, wild strawberry, sous-bois and a touch of smoke, very focused and full of energy. The palate is well balanced with sappy red berry fruit and a little oakier than necessary, but there is sufficient fruit to absorb that. Slightly meaty toward the finish. I will be optimistic and suggest that this will improve with bottle age. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

88-90

There is one barrel of the 2017 Fixin 1er Cru Les Hervelets, the first time this has been vinified separately—readers will remember that of these adjacent premiers crus, Hervelets can be sold as Arvelets but not vice versa. Fermented without any destemming, the wine offers up aromas of wild berries, peonies and cinnamon, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and silky palate, framed by fine but firm stem tannins that assert themselves on the finish. Berthaut reports that the wine started life quite hard but is becoming more supple with élevage.

Vinous

Vinous

90

The 2017 Fixin Les Arvelets 1er Cru has a taut, well-defined nose of black cherries, wild strawberry, sous-bois and a touch of smoke, very focused and full of energy. The palate is well balanced with sappy red berry fruit and a little oakier than necessary, but there is sufficient fruit to absorb that. Slightly meaty toward the finish. I will be optimistic and suggest that this will improve with bottle age. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.