Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet
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While we all enjoy the secretive aspect of knowing a region is remarkably better than its reputation, or lack thereof, it's about time that the wines of Fixin, and more importantly those of Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet are given their due. Amelie Berthaut is the newest and brightest generation to run the house that is the marriage of former Domaines Denis Berthaut and François Gerbet, where the family roots dig back several centuries within the village.
A fresh, charming face in the wine world, the mid-30s Amelie took over at just 25; she burst onto the scene just as she had burst back into the family estate after her schooling, offering brilliant insight and passion right away, encouraging her father to hand her the reins.
As her time in charge lengthens, the now fully-organic domaine has captivated all that have tasted the wines; there is a definite signature to Amelie's wines, and I wouldn't venture to say that it is one of any particular taste or aroma, but one of feel - they are stylish, elegant, airy even, in the best way possible. Fixin lies somewhere between Gevrey and Chambolle for me in terms of its style - red fruit, yes, but this floral, pink-fruited component that is unmistakable. Yet that finesse, that feel is felt throughout her wines from the Vosne and elsewhere.
In the winery, Amelie will ferment in concrete before moving the wines into oak barrels that generally are between 0-25% new; the retaining of whole clusters will be up to 60%, and though rare, sometime none at all. There is no rubric to making the wine, but in her deep, cold cellar they mature incredibly slowly which helps to account for, what was it? Oh, that feel.
