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2017 Claude Dugat, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
PRE-ARRIVAL
1 To Come

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We somms had the historic families of Burgundy branded into our souls early on - the Roulots, the Moreys, the Colins, yet few can measure up to the precision and extreme quality of Claude Dugat. A family that dates back centuries, today Claude's children Laetitia and Bertrand tend what is one of the absolute finest collection of old vines in Burgundy. As ever, a tiny amount of wine escapes each year, about 2000 cases in total, the majority of which is snapped up by collectors and top restaurants in lucky corners of the world.

Claude Dugat

An extremist in his pursuit of quality, Claude Dugat's wines have been spoken about in hallowed terms throughout the world's best restaurants for decades. His six hectares of Gevrey vines are situated in some of Burgundy's oldest plots, including Charmes-Chambertin (the last vintage will be 2022!), Chapelle-Chambertin and Griottes-Chambertin. 

While the family has winegrowing roots dating back to the 1800s, the eponymous domaine of Claude Dugat was officially formed in 1955 when his father Maurice purchased the historic landmark Grange des Dimes, turning part of the property into a functioning winery. 

The family is indeed talented, as Claude's cousin Bernard creates the Dugat-Py wines; Claude's children, Laetitia and Bertrand have taken up the helm as of 2015 of their dad's domaine, pushing the pursuit of quality even further as they moved to harvest at perfect ripeness to eschew the use of chaptalization, acidification, and limit sulfuring; the hallmark has always been purity and the new generation is pushing that pursuit to new extremes. 

The winemaking process of the family is rather standard across all cuvées - all of the fruit is de-stemmed, fermented in concrete with only gentle punch-downs, no pump-overs to limit the oxygen exposure. After a short resting period, the juice is racked into Francois Freres barrels, about 40% of which are new for most wines, excluding the Bourgogne which receives no new oak. 

Meet the Producer

Claude Dugat

We somms had the historic families of Burgundy branded into our souls early on - the Roulots, the Moreys, the Colins, yet few can measure up to the precision and extreme quality of Claude Dugat. A family that dates back centuries, today Claude's children Laetitia and Bertrand tend what is one of the absolute finest collection of old vines in Burgundy. As ever, a tiny amount of wine escapes each year, about 2000 cases in total, the majority of which is snapped up by collectors and top restaurants in lucky corners of the world.

An extremist in his pursuit of quality, Claude Dugat's wines have been spoken about in hallowed terms throughout the world's best restaurants for decades. His six hectares of Gevrey vines are situated in some of Burgundy's oldest plots, including Charmes-Chambertin (the last vintage will be 2022!), Chapelle-Chambertin and Griottes-Chambertin. 

While the family has winegrowing roots dating back to the 1800s, the eponymous domaine of Claude Dugat was officially formed in 1955 when his father Maurice purchased the historic landmark Grange des Dimes, turning part of the property into a functioning winery. 

The family is indeed talented, as Claude's cousin Bernard creates the Dugat-Py wines; Claude's children, Laetitia and Bertrand have taken up the helm as of 2015 of their dad's domaine, pushing the pursuit of quality even further as they moved to harvest at perfect ripeness to eschew the use of chaptalization, acidification, and limit sulfuring; the hallmark has always been purity and the new generation is pushing that pursuit to new extremes. 

The winemaking process of the family is rather standard across all cuvées - all of the fruit is de-stemmed, fermented in concrete with only gentle punch-downs, no pump-overs to limit the oxygen exposure. After a short resting period, the juice is racked into Francois Freres barrels, about 40% of which are new for most wines, excluding the Bourgogne which receives no new oak. 


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96

A wine of utter sensuality, the 2017 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet red fruits, orange zest, rose petals, vine smoke and spices, followed by a full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that's suave and seamless, its vibrant, enveloping core of fruit framed by melting tannins, concluding with a long, saline finish. Like many 2017s, this seems unlikely ever to shut down and stands out as one of those rare vintages that can never be caught at the wrong moment. That being said, I'm sure a decade's bottle age will be rewarded with even more mid-palate volume.

Vinous

Vinous

94-96

The 2017 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru shows a lot of reduction on the nose, although giving it 10 minutes to unfold it reveals exquisite blackberry, wild hedgerow and crushed stone aromas that gradually gain momentum. The palate is crisp and precise, quite compact but elegant with a silky finish and touches of black truffle emerging on the aftertaste. This vies with the Chapelle-Chambertin as Dugat's best 2017, my hunch is that this will ultimately surpass it.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96

A wine of utter sensuality, the 2017 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet red fruits, orange zest, rose petals, vine smoke and spices, followed by a full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that's suave and seamless, its vibrant, enveloping core of fruit framed by melting tannins, concluding with a long, saline finish. Like many 2017s, this seems unlikely ever to shut down and stands out as one of those rare vintages that can never be caught at the wrong moment. That being said, I'm sure a decade's bottle age will be rewarded with even more mid-palate volume.

Vinous

Vinous

94-96

The 2017 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru shows a lot of reduction on the nose, although giving it 10 minutes to unfold it reveals exquisite blackberry, wild hedgerow and crushed stone aromas that gradually gain momentum. The palate is crisp and precise, quite compact but elegant with a silky finish and touches of black truffle emerging on the aftertaste. This vies with the Chapelle-Chambertin as Dugat's best 2017, my hunch is that this will ultimately surpass it.