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Vincent Dauvissat

2012 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos

France Chardonnay Burgundy Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 750ML

Wine Advocate

92

Vinous

96

Burghound

94

CellarTracker

93
/
2012 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos
Vincent Dauvissat

2012 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos

France Chardonnay Burgundy Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 750ML

Wine Advocate

92

Vinous

96

Burghound

94

CellarTracker

93
/
0 In Stock

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While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Vincent Dauvissat

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.

Meet the Producer

Vincent Dauvissat

While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, which comes from 1.7 hectares of 50+-year-old vine, has a much subtler bouquet compared to Les Preuses with hints of yellow flowers and damp autumnal undergrowth. The palate is extremely well-balanced with a touch of dried apricot and peach skin on the entry before being usurped by gentle spicy notes that lead to the tense finish. This is a lovely Les Clos, although Les Preuses is more exciting this year. Drink now-2022. Raveneau or Vincent Dauvissat? Cognoscenti seem to be split about which of these growers represent the pinnacle of Chablis, though frankly I would not complain if I found either in my glass. I have adored these wines for many years, though this was the first time that I had visited their small 16th and 17th century cellars. Vincent’s grandfather was one of the first to bottle his own wines in the 1930s, then Rene took over with his wife Madeleine and enhanced the domaine’s reputation until his retirement. Vincent told me that the first vintage that he participated in was the 1977 and that know-how had been passed down through empiricism, from father to son and so on. There are around 14 hectares of vine, predominantly premier cru. The 2012s bestowed a normal crop in terms of quantity, although 2013 was down to around 28 hectoliters per pectare, though Vincent emphasized that this was not catastrophic. “The crus had the same analysis in 2012. The terroir making the difference,” he said. He used around 10% to 15% of new oak, the rest a mixture of aged wood. Unsurprisingly, these were a set of quite sublime expressions of Chablis that leave you questioning whether it’s worth bothering with the rest of the tastings (which of course it is, but you know what I mean when you taste something that you are convinced will not be bettered.) These Chablis seem to be sculpted by the earth itself, exquisitely balanced and with more minerality than almost all of their peers. Even the village cru would leave other premier crus behind. The 2013s were unfortunately in an awkward stage, although I had a chance to taste a couple from barrel. I look forward to tasting them on my next visit.

Vinous

Vinous

96

Bright medium yellow color; deeper than the '14. Pure and mineral-driven on the nose but much less expressive today than the 2014, hinting at lemon, grapefruit and various shades of stone. Offers more weight on entry than the 2014, then quite penetrating and very dry in the middle palate, dominated by lemony citricity and powdered stone. This brilliant calcaire wine finishes dusty, tactile and firm, with a hint of youthful bitterness. Showing little easy sweetness or early appeal, this very dry, salty wine can't match the '14 for its impeccable early balance but it should age for a long time despite its average acidity. (Dauvissat described the yield here as not a big crop due to a moderately successful flowering during cool, humid weather; between 40 and 45 hectoliters per hectare, about like 2014; acidity between 3.9 and 4.0 grams per liter; harvested on September 24):

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, which comes from 1.7 hectares of 50+-year-old vine, has a much subtler bouquet compared to Les Preuses with hints of yellow flowers and damp autumnal undergrowth. The palate is extremely well-balanced with a touch of dried apricot and peach skin on the entry before being usurped by gentle spicy notes that lead to the tense finish. This is a lovely Les Clos, although Les Preuses is more exciting this year. Drink now-2022. Raveneau or Vincent Dauvissat? Cognoscenti seem to be split about which of these growers represent the pinnacle of Chablis, though frankly I would not complain if I found either in my glass. I have adored these wines for many years, though this was the first time that I had visited their small 16th and 17th century cellars. Vincent’s grandfather was one of the first to bottle his own wines in the 1930s, then Rene took over with his wife Madeleine and enhanced the domaine’s reputation until his retirement. Vincent told me that the first vintage that he participated in was the 1977 and that know-how had been passed down through empiricism, from father to son and so on. There are around 14 hectares of vine, predominantly premier cru. The 2012s bestowed a normal crop in terms of quantity, although 2013 was down to around 28 hectoliters per pectare, though Vincent emphasized that this was not catastrophic. “The crus had the same analysis in 2012. The terroir making the difference,” he said. He used around 10% to 15% of new oak, the rest a mixture of aged wood. Unsurprisingly, these were a set of quite sublime expressions of Chablis that leave you questioning whether it’s worth bothering with the rest of the tastings (which of course it is, but you know what I mean when you taste something that you are convinced will not be bettered.) These Chablis seem to be sculpted by the earth itself, exquisitely balanced and with more minerality than almost all of their peers. Even the village cru would leave other premier crus behind. The 2013s were unfortunately in an awkward stage, although I had a chance to taste a couple from barrel. I look forward to tasting them on my next visit.

Vinous

Vinous

96

Bright medium yellow color; deeper than the '14. Pure and mineral-driven on the nose but much less expressive today than the 2014, hinting at lemon, grapefruit and various shades of stone. Offers more weight on entry than the 2014, then quite penetrating and very dry in the middle palate, dominated by lemony citricity and powdered stone. This brilliant calcaire wine finishes dusty, tactile and firm, with a hint of youthful bitterness. Showing little easy sweetness or early appeal, this very dry, salty wine can't match the '14 for its impeccable early balance but it should age for a long time despite its average acidity. (Dauvissat described the yield here as not a big crop due to a moderately successful flowering during cool, humid weather; between 40 and 45 hectoliters per hectare, about like 2014; acidity between 3.9 and 4.0 grams per liter; harvested on September 24):