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Hubert Lamy

2012 Hubert Lamy, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Macherelles

France Chardonnay Burgundy Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles Premier Cru 750ML

Wine Advocate

88-90
/
2012 Hubert Lamy, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Macherelles
Hubert Lamy

2012 Hubert Lamy, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Macherelles

France Chardonnay Burgundy Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles Premier Cru 750ML

Wine Advocate

88-90
/
PRE-ARRIVAL
6 To Come

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Coming up as a sommelier at a fancy French restaurant in Napa Valley, I was subjected to a wild wealth of impressive white Burgundies; so extensive was (is) the list, that the occasional "value" white Burgundy would stick out more often than a Grand Cru. So was the case in the early 2010s for me, stumbling across what was then a "humble" wine - a Saint-Aubin bearing the name of Hubert Lamy. It was supple, Meursault-esque in its texture and aromatics yet different. Much like Joe Pesci might muse were he a sommelier, "Different HOW?"

Well, the difference is one man, Olivier Lamy, who came to inherit the domaine from his father Hubert and elevated the quality to wildly high standards. Today the wines are so beguiling, so sought-after and intense in their flavor profile that we can no longer call these "humble", yet in the grand scheme, Olivier's wines do still represent value; no matter what price point they inhabit on any given day, few others could ever hope to embody such class, elegance and purity.

Hubert Lamy

Founded by Hubert in the mid-1970s, Olivier's arrival in 1995 to the winemaking team elevated the property to the heights it has reached today. Located in Saint-Aubin, Olivier stopped selling the family's grapes to negociants and focused on elevating each and every plot the family owned. With this effort and the inclusion of several high-density plantings, the Lamy name today is synonymous with class, precision and ultimate elegance.

In the vineyards, all practices are organic and tireless in their efforts. The experiments of high-density plantings in 0.10-hectare sized plots within Chez Edouard (Saint-Aubin) and Les Tremblots. (Puligny) at 28-30,000 vines per hectare were incredibly successful and represent the pinnacle of Olivier's work ethic.

In the cellar, there is very little time wasted, with the grapes pressed from their skins immediately, and the barrels have become larger to deemphasize the impact of oak, allowing the freshness to shine through. Reds and whites are fermented in different cellars to allow whites to ferment slower within a cooler cellar, creating a wine of impeccable class and structure. Reds are always de-stemmed and allowed to soak prior to fermentation, prior to 12-18 months' aging.

Meet the Producer

Hubert Lamy

Coming up as a sommelier at a fancy French restaurant in Napa Valley, I was subjected to a wild wealth of impressive white Burgundies; so extensive was (is) the list, that the occasional "value" white Burgundy would stick out more often than a Grand Cru. So was the case in the early 2010s for me, stumbling across what was then a "humble" wine - a Saint-Aubin bearing the name of Hubert Lamy. It was supple, Meursault-esque in its texture and aromatics yet different. Much like Joe Pesci might muse were he a sommelier, "Different HOW?"

Well, the difference is one man, Olivier Lamy, who came to inherit the domaine from his father Hubert and elevated the quality to wildly high standards. Today the wines are so beguiling, so sought-after and intense in their flavor profile that we can no longer call these "humble", yet in the grand scheme, Olivier's wines do still represent value; no matter what price point they inhabit on any given day, few others could ever hope to embody such class, elegance and purity.

Founded by Hubert in the mid-1970s, Olivier's arrival in 1995 to the winemaking team elevated the property to the heights it has reached today. Located in Saint-Aubin, Olivier stopped selling the family's grapes to negociants and focused on elevating each and every plot the family owned. With this effort and the inclusion of several high-density plantings, the Lamy name today is synonymous with class, precision and ultimate elegance.

In the vineyards, all practices are organic and tireless in their efforts. The experiments of high-density plantings in 0.10-hectare sized plots within Chez Edouard (Saint-Aubin) and Les Tremblots. (Puligny) at 28-30,000 vines per hectare were incredibly successful and represent the pinnacle of Olivier's work ethic.

In the cellar, there is very little time wasted, with the grapes pressed from their skins immediately, and the barrels have become larger to deemphasize the impact of oak, allowing the freshness to shine through. Reds and whites are fermented in different cellars to allow whites to ferment slower within a cooler cellar, creating a wine of impeccable class and structure. Reds are always de-stemmed and allowed to soak prior to fermentation, prior to 12-18 months' aging.

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

88-90

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles was broody, obdurate and stubbornly closed on the nose when tasted out of barrel, but with encouragement reveals some lime leaf and even peppermint aromas. A tantalizing glimpse of what is to come? The palate is well-balanced with a taut entry and it demonstrates impressive weight, although compared to some of Olivier’s other crus in 2012, I was seeking a little more tension and complexity on the finish. Arriving on a sodden, overcast Tuesday afternoon at Domaine Hubert Lamy, I stumbled upon Olivier Lamy shovelling a large pile of grape skins onto a moving conveyor. In stark contrast to the idyllic vistas of sun-kissed vineyards and smiling vignerons, it was a pertinent reminder that great wines are the product of hard labor, often tedious, backbreaking, laborious work. Once he had finished we retired to the red wine barrel cellar, only to find so much carbonic gas from the fermenting 2013s that I found it difficult to breath. There was nothing to do but type my observations for the reds al fresco and under a light drizzle. Despite all this, it was a pleasure to visit a winery that is functioning instead of standing idle, to hear the whisper of fizz-popping fermenting barrels next to me, perhaps waiting for their turn next year. I have been following Hubert Lamy’s wines for around a decade now and in that time, I have grown to appreciate him as one of the leading exponents of Cote de Beaune whites. Who else would labor over increasing the density of some of his vineyards to 20,000 plants per hectare? I asked what he had gleaned from this experiment. Olivier told me that the vines tend to ripen a little quicker than the regular plantings with better natural acidity levels. He is also expanding his holdings, having recently acquired parcels from Vincent Jolin (the cousin of Aubert de Villaine) that include Clos des Gravieres in Santenay. I tasted his 2012s from barrel apropos the reds and from stainless steel vats for the whites. Olivier commenced picking from September 16 with the young vines and September 18 for the “grown-ups,” completing the vendange eight days later. While I would not ascribe superlatives for every single one of his crus, they are (as usual) intermittently brilliant and often intellectual. Though his quartet of reds is commendable, it is his whites that truly excel, from his entry-level Bourgogne Blanc up to his impossibly rare Criots-Batard-Montrachet. As I expected, Olivier’s range of Saint Aubin village and premier crus are particularly strong, certainly representing more affordable alternatives to Puligny-Montrachets from other growers. His “Haut Densite” bottlings have expanded from one to three crus, including the aforementioned Grand Cru for the first time. They are definitely worth seeking out for expressions of Burgundy terroir are high-density plantings of 20,000 per hectare, though they will not be easy to track down, limited as they are to just one barrel each.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

88-90

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles was broody, obdurate and stubbornly closed on the nose when tasted out of barrel, but with encouragement reveals some lime leaf and even peppermint aromas. A tantalizing glimpse of what is to come? The palate is well-balanced with a taut entry and it demonstrates impressive weight, although compared to some of Olivier’s other crus in 2012, I was seeking a little more tension and complexity on the finish. Arriving on a sodden, overcast Tuesday afternoon at Domaine Hubert Lamy, I stumbled upon Olivier Lamy shovelling a large pile of grape skins onto a moving conveyor. In stark contrast to the idyllic vistas of sun-kissed vineyards and smiling vignerons, it was a pertinent reminder that great wines are the product of hard labor, often tedious, backbreaking, laborious work. Once he had finished we retired to the red wine barrel cellar, only to find so much carbonic gas from the fermenting 2013s that I found it difficult to breath. There was nothing to do but type my observations for the reds al fresco and under a light drizzle. Despite all this, it was a pleasure to visit a winery that is functioning instead of standing idle, to hear the whisper of fizz-popping fermenting barrels next to me, perhaps waiting for their turn next year. I have been following Hubert Lamy’s wines for around a decade now and in that time, I have grown to appreciate him as one of the leading exponents of Cote de Beaune whites. Who else would labor over increasing the density of some of his vineyards to 20,000 plants per hectare? I asked what he had gleaned from this experiment. Olivier told me that the vines tend to ripen a little quicker than the regular plantings with better natural acidity levels. He is also expanding his holdings, having recently acquired parcels from Vincent Jolin (the cousin of Aubert de Villaine) that include Clos des Gravieres in Santenay. I tasted his 2012s from barrel apropos the reds and from stainless steel vats for the whites. Olivier commenced picking from September 16 with the young vines and September 18 for the “grown-ups,” completing the vendange eight days later. While I would not ascribe superlatives for every single one of his crus, they are (as usual) intermittently brilliant and often intellectual. Though his quartet of reds is commendable, it is his whites that truly excel, from his entry-level Bourgogne Blanc up to his impossibly rare Criots-Batard-Montrachet. As I expected, Olivier’s range of Saint Aubin village and premier crus are particularly strong, certainly representing more affordable alternatives to Puligny-Montrachets from other growers. His “Haut Densite” bottlings have expanded from one to three crus, including the aforementioned Grand Cru for the first time. They are definitely worth seeking out for expressions of Burgundy terroir are high-density plantings of 20,000 per hectare, though they will not be easy to track down, limited as they are to just one barrel each.