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Peter Jakob Kuhn

2009 Peter Jakob Kuhn, Schlehdorn Riesling Trocken, Rheingau

Germany Riesling Rheingau 750ML

Wine Advocate

92
/
2009 Peter Jakob Kuhn, Schlehdorn Riesling Trocken, Rheingau
Peter Jakob Kuhn

2009 Peter Jakob Kuhn, Schlehdorn Riesling Trocken, Rheingau

Germany Riesling Rheingau 750ML

Wine Advocate

92
/
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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The old vines 2009 Riesling trocken Schledorn displays haunting floral overtones of narcissus and apricot blossom along with the radish-like combination of muskiness and bite common to several dry Kuhn Rieslings of its vintage. At the same time – and even while displaying distinct peach kernel bitterness – this exhibits a glossy texture and expansive sense or richness (at nearly 13% alcohol), uncannily allied to lift and elegance. Luscious apricot and white peach in a long finish remain wreathed with their distilled essences as well as those of alluringly musky flowers. This haunting performance should continue for ten or a dozen years if not longer. Its due to consumer expectations expressed for so expensive a wine, notes Kuhn, that he departs from his normal practice and finishes it with natural cork. . Peter Jakob Kuhn – for more about whose distinctive stylistic and agricultural aspirations consult my several earlier reports – had every reason to express delight in his 2009 collection, “but it didnt require enormous skill to make excellent wine this year,” he added self-effacingly and smilingly. Kuhn noted that he did have to warm the cellar to get a number of his lots to reach the desired degree of dryness. The dry wines as usual here underwent malo, but it was not a very profound transformation given the ripeness (and hence low malic acidity) of raw material; and most of the finished wines display plenty of sap and vivacity despite harboring low measurable acidity. Noting that “If you have to wait for botrytis to come, the berries eventually become sweet but harbor less finesse; early harvest always results in the best nobly sweet wines,” Kuhn suggests that such optimal botrytis harvest was possible to only a very limited extent in 2009 and explains his variable degree of success.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The old vines 2009 Riesling trocken Schledorn displays haunting floral overtones of narcissus and apricot blossom along with the radish-like combination of muskiness and bite common to several dry Kuhn Rieslings of its vintage. At the same time – and even while displaying distinct peach kernel bitterness – this exhibits a glossy texture and expansive sense or richness (at nearly 13% alcohol), uncannily allied to lift and elegance. Luscious apricot and white peach in a long finish remain wreathed with their distilled essences as well as those of alluringly musky flowers. This haunting performance should continue for ten or a dozen years if not longer. Its due to consumer expectations expressed for so expensive a wine, notes Kuhn, that he departs from his normal practice and finishes it with natural cork. . Peter Jakob Kuhn – for more about whose distinctive stylistic and agricultural aspirations consult my several earlier reports – had every reason to express delight in his 2009 collection, “but it didnt require enormous skill to make excellent wine this year,” he added self-effacingly and smilingly. Kuhn noted that he did have to warm the cellar to get a number of his lots to reach the desired degree of dryness. The dry wines as usual here underwent malo, but it was not a very profound transformation given the ripeness (and hence low malic acidity) of raw material; and most of the finished wines display plenty of sap and vivacity despite harboring low measurable acidity. Noting that “If you have to wait for botrytis to come, the berries eventually become sweet but harbor less finesse; early harvest always results in the best nobly sweet wines,” Kuhn suggests that such optimal botrytis harvest was possible to only a very limited extent in 2009 and explains his variable degree of success.