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2009 Domaine Roulot, Meursault Premier Cru, Charmes
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A groundbreaking estate in Meursault, Roulot has long been the master of the lieu-dit - that is, isolating tiny plots within a grander vineyard site, or even producing lesser-known sites such as Narvaux or Les Tillets much as you would a top Premier Cru. This creates a seamless, transparent view of each vineyard's unique personality and has proven to be the hallmark of the legendary domaine.

Domaine Roulot

When Guy Roulot passed suddenly in 1982, his son Jean-Marc had no plans on becoming the heir to the winemaking throne as he was pursuing a career as an actor. When he finally completed his oenological schooling and took over in 1989, he still had much to learn - his fermentations initially struggled after he overzealously cleaned the winery. However, blessed with a bountiful selection of the best vineyards in Meursault, the quality of those vines shone through with ease. In contrast to the wines of Coche-Dury or even Lafon, the Domaine Roulot wines under Jean-Marc's direction have been an example of restraint - a focused prism on the terroir of each bottling, without much new oak use (15-18% on average) and an overall style that rewards long aging in the cellar.

The Aligoté is fermented in stainless steel, but all of the other white wines are fermented in oak, with a light batonnage every 3-4 weeks until malo-lactic begins. The aging for all Meursaults is performed in both stainless and barrel.

Perhaps the most sought-after bottlings are the Perrieres, Charmes and Poruzots, but not to be missed are the Clos des Boucheres and Les Luchets, whenever they can be found! Perrieres and Charmes are the oldest vineyards and provide the most richness of the Roulot wines, while the Narvaux and Tillets vineyards are the highest-altitude vineyards and have a more fine, crystalline and tart quality in their youth.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Roulot

A groundbreaking estate in Meursault, Roulot has long been the master of the lieu-dit - that is, isolating tiny plots within a grander vineyard site, or even producing lesser-known sites such as Narvaux or Les Tillets much as you would a top Premier Cru. This creates a seamless, transparent view of each vineyard's unique personality and has proven to be the hallmark of the legendary domaine.

When Guy Roulot passed suddenly in 1982, his son Jean-Marc had no plans on becoming the heir to the winemaking throne as he was pursuing a career as an actor. When he finally completed his oenological schooling and took over in 1989, he still had much to learn - his fermentations initially struggled after he overzealously cleaned the winery. However, blessed with a bountiful selection of the best vineyards in Meursault, the quality of those vines shone through with ease. In contrast to the wines of Coche-Dury or even Lafon, the Domaine Roulot wines under Jean-Marc's direction have been an example of restraint - a focused prism on the terroir of each bottling, without much new oak use (15-18% on average) and an overall style that rewards long aging in the cellar.

The Aligoté is fermented in stainless steel, but all of the other white wines are fermented in oak, with a light batonnage every 3-4 weeks until malo-lactic begins. The aging for all Meursaults is performed in both stainless and barrel.

Perhaps the most sought-after bottlings are the Perrieres, Charmes and Poruzots, but not to be missed are the Clos des Boucheres and Les Luchets, whenever they can be found! Perrieres and Charmes are the oldest vineyards and provide the most richness of the Roulot wines, while the Narvaux and Tillets vineyards are the highest-altitude vineyards and have a more fine, crystalline and tart quality in their youth.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96

The 2009 Meursault Charmes comes across as big and quite rich. Layers of fruit totally cover the palate in this textured, seamless Charmes. There is plenty of underlying minerality but the fruit is so huge it virtually covers all of the structural elements. The wine remains graceful and round through to the finish. This may need a number of years to show at its best, but it is stunningly beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2017+. Jean-Marc Roulot is one of the most thoughtful, introspective growers in Burgundy, so it is hardly a surprise his 2009s are so sublime. The domaine has grown to 15 hectares as of the 2011 harvest. Roulot was among a group of investors including Dominique Lafon who purchased Domaine Rene Manuel from Laboure-Roi. Readers can look forward to two new wines from Roulot a Meursault Clos de la Baronne, Meursault Clos de Bouchere, plus a little more production of the Poruzots. Roulot was among the first to harvest, and started picking on September 1st. Accodring to Roulot, the optimal window for picking has become much narrower with today’s increasingly warmer growing seasons. Roulot told me he prefers 2009 to 2008 as the fruit was healthier, with no botrytis or other issues, which resulted in wines of greater focus. The 2009s spent 12 months in oak followed by 6 months in steel with very light and infrequent batonnage. The Bourgogne saw less than 10% new barrels, while the village wines saw 15-18% new barrels and the premier crus 25-30% new barrels. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010s as they were in full malolactic fermentation.

Vinous

Vinous

91-94

Bright pale color. Discreet aromas of crushed stone and musky spices; pure and subdued. Then very rich and tactile in the mouth, with a distinctly penetrating character to the lemon, ginger and mineral flavors. I love the combination of intense fruits and spices and almost silky mid-palate texture. Finishes with strong minerality. A fairly ripe style of 2009, but with concentration and balance.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96

The 2009 Meursault Charmes comes across as big and quite rich. Layers of fruit totally cover the palate in this textured, seamless Charmes. There is plenty of underlying minerality but the fruit is so huge it virtually covers all of the structural elements. The wine remains graceful and round through to the finish. This may need a number of years to show at its best, but it is stunningly beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2017+. Jean-Marc Roulot is one of the most thoughtful, introspective growers in Burgundy, so it is hardly a surprise his 2009s are so sublime. The domaine has grown to 15 hectares as of the 2011 harvest. Roulot was among a group of investors including Dominique Lafon who purchased Domaine Rene Manuel from Laboure-Roi. Readers can look forward to two new wines from Roulot a Meursault Clos de la Baronne, Meursault Clos de Bouchere, plus a little more production of the Poruzots. Roulot was among the first to harvest, and started picking on September 1st. Accodring to Roulot, the optimal window for picking has become much narrower with today’s increasingly warmer growing seasons. Roulot told me he prefers 2009 to 2008 as the fruit was healthier, with no botrytis or other issues, which resulted in wines of greater focus. The 2009s spent 12 months in oak followed by 6 months in steel with very light and infrequent batonnage. The Bourgogne saw less than 10% new barrels, while the village wines saw 15-18% new barrels and the premier crus 25-30% new barrels. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010s as they were in full malolactic fermentation.

Vinous

Vinous

91-94

Bright pale color. Discreet aromas of crushed stone and musky spices; pure and subdued. Then very rich and tactile in the mouth, with a distinctly penetrating character to the lemon, ginger and mineral flavors. I love the combination of intense fruits and spices and almost silky mid-palate texture. Finishes with strong minerality. A fairly ripe style of 2009, but with concentration and balance.