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2006 Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru

Regular price $299
/
2006 Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru

2006 Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru

Regular price $299
/
PRE-ARRIVAL
3 To Come

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We somms had the historic families of Burgundy branded into our souls early on - the Roulots, the Moreys, the Colins, yet few can measure up to the precision and extreme quality of Claude Dugat. A family that dates back centuries, today Claude's children Laetitia and Bertrand tend what is one of the absolute finest collection of old vines in Burgundy. As ever, a tiny amount of wine escapes each year, about 2000 cases in total, the majority of which is snapped up by collectors and top restaurants in lucky corners of the world.

Claude Dugat

An extremist in his pursuit of quality, Claude Dugat's wines have been spoken about in hallowed terms throughout the world's best restaurants for decades. His six hectares of Gevrey vines are situated in some of Burgundy's oldest plots, including Charmes-Chambertin (the last vintage will be 2022!), Chapelle-Chambertin and Griottes-Chambertin. 

While the family has winegrowing roots dating back to the 1800s, the eponymous domaine of Claude Dugat was officially formed in 1955 when his father Maurice purchased the historic landmark Grange des Dimes, turning part of the property into a functioning winery. 

The family is indeed talented, as Claude's cousin Bernard creates the Dugat-Py wines; Claude's children, Laetitia and Bertrand have taken up the helm as of 2015 of their dad's domaine, pushing the pursuit of quality even further as they moved to harvest at perfect ripeness to eschew the use of chaptalization, acidification, and limit sulfuring; the hallmark has always been purity and the new generation is pushing that pursuit to new extremes. 

The winemaking process of the family is rather standard across all cuvées - all of the fruit is de-stemmed, fermented in concrete with only gentle punch-downs, no pump-overs to limit the oxygen exposure. After a short resting period, the juice is racked into Francois Freres barrels, about 40% of which are new for most wines, excluding the Bourgogne which receives no new oak. 

Meet the Producer

Claude Dugat

We somms had the historic families of Burgundy branded into our souls early on - the Roulots, the Moreys, the Colins, yet few can measure up to the precision and extreme quality of Claude Dugat. A family that dates back centuries, today Claude's children Laetitia and Bertrand tend what is one of the absolute finest collection of old vines in Burgundy. As ever, a tiny amount of wine escapes each year, about 2000 cases in total, the majority of which is snapped up by collectors and top restaurants in lucky corners of the world.

An extremist in his pursuit of quality, Claude Dugat's wines have been spoken about in hallowed terms throughout the world's best restaurants for decades. His six hectares of Gevrey vines are situated in some of Burgundy's oldest plots, including Charmes-Chambertin (the last vintage will be 2022!), Chapelle-Chambertin and Griottes-Chambertin. 

While the family has winegrowing roots dating back to the 1800s, the eponymous domaine of Claude Dugat was officially formed in 1955 when his father Maurice purchased the historic landmark Grange des Dimes, turning part of the property into a functioning winery. 

The family is indeed talented, as Claude's cousin Bernard creates the Dugat-Py wines; Claude's children, Laetitia and Bertrand have taken up the helm as of 2015 of their dad's domaine, pushing the pursuit of quality even further as they moved to harvest at perfect ripeness to eschew the use of chaptalization, acidification, and limit sulfuring; the hallmark has always been purity and the new generation is pushing that pursuit to new extremes. 

The winemaking process of the family is rather standard across all cuvées - all of the fruit is de-stemmed, fermented in concrete with only gentle punch-downs, no pump-overs to limit the oxygen exposure. After a short resting period, the juice is racked into Francois Freres barrels, about 40% of which are new for most wines, excluding the Bourgogne which receives no new oak. 


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

89

Representing as usual the co-fermentation of fruit from La Perriere (below Mazis) and Craipillot (immediately west of the village), Claude Dugat's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru smells of rose rip, fresh dark cherry and red licorice. Tart but ripely-concentrated berries and raw red meat mingle on a palate that takes on an initial aura of richness thanks to its sense of viscosity and sweetness of fruit, but then finishes with an exposed streak of tannin that strikes me as accentuated by the influence of (80%) new wood. This is impressive in its not very charming way, and certainly seems to demand several years of bottle age before being worth revisiting. At that point, one needs to assess how the tannins have evolved. "I like the 2006s a lot for their very Pinot character, their elegance, and the expression of their respective terroirs," says Claude Dugat, echoing the sentiment expressed by a great many growers about this vintage, and adding that his crop's potential alcohol levels were significantly lower than in 2005. That said, richness and robustness nearly always seem to be in the cards at this address, and in fact the 2006 collection displays formidable density and tanninity, the latter at times reinforced by the effects of new wood. Dugat admits – again, echoing the observation of numerous growers – that his 2006s put on weight and structure in the course of elevage. (The suggested pricing I received for these wines seemed implausibly high, incidentally, and I tempered it in response to spot-checking. But it should be noted that market prices for these wines are both especially high and highly variable.)

Vinous

Vinous

90

Good full red. Licorice and black fruits on the nose. Juicy on entry, then lively and firm in the middle, with a sappy quality to its black cherry flavor. Nicely fruity but seems to be closing down. The tannins here are a tad tough and will need a few years of patience.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

89

Representing as usual the co-fermentation of fruit from La Perriere (below Mazis) and Craipillot (immediately west of the village), Claude Dugat's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru smells of rose rip, fresh dark cherry and red licorice. Tart but ripely-concentrated berries and raw red meat mingle on a palate that takes on an initial aura of richness thanks to its sense of viscosity and sweetness of fruit, but then finishes with an exposed streak of tannin that strikes me as accentuated by the influence of (80%) new wood. This is impressive in its not very charming way, and certainly seems to demand several years of bottle age before being worth revisiting. At that point, one needs to assess how the tannins have evolved. "I like the 2006s a lot for their very Pinot character, their elegance, and the expression of their respective terroirs," says Claude Dugat, echoing the sentiment expressed by a great many growers about this vintage, and adding that his crop's potential alcohol levels were significantly lower than in 2005. That said, richness and robustness nearly always seem to be in the cards at this address, and in fact the 2006 collection displays formidable density and tanninity, the latter at times reinforced by the effects of new wood. Dugat admits – again, echoing the observation of numerous growers – that his 2006s put on weight and structure in the course of elevage. (The suggested pricing I received for these wines seemed implausibly high, incidentally, and I tempered it in response to spot-checking. But it should be noted that market prices for these wines are both especially high and highly variable.)

Vinous

Vinous

90

Good full red. Licorice and black fruits on the nose. Juicy on entry, then lively and firm in the middle, with a sappy quality to its black cherry flavor. Nicely fruity but seems to be closing down. The tannins here are a tad tough and will need a few years of patience.