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2003 Chateau des Tours, Vacqueyras
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Spoken about in hushed tones by many a collector, Chateau Rayas - and all of its arms from Fonsalette to Chateau des Tours - is known as the greatest Grenache producer in the world. After his uncle Jacques' passing in 1997, Emmanuel Reynaud has continually crafted phenomenal wines from each estate that are sought the world over.

Chateau des Tours

Several generations have run the Chateau Rayas, but Jacques Reynaud took the wines into the stratosphere, where Emmanuel has only served to keep them since his ascendance in 1997. Almost as reticent in accepting his fame as Jacques - who used to hide when cars would approach the Chateau - Emmanuel guards closely his recipe to the legendary wines escaping the estate every year.

We know that the vines are ancient and produce small, intense yields. There is no temperature-control in the cellars, and the wines ferment in concrete before being transferred to ancient barrels of several different sizes. That's it - no magic tricks, just patience; the wines will ferment for about a year, and then will be aged in bottle at the estates until they are deemed ready to drink; routinely vintages are released nearly a decade after their fermentations conclude.

From Chateau des Tours in Vaucluse, 40 hectares of Grenache, Syrah, Merlot, Cinsault, Grenache Blanc and Clairette are planted to black sand vineyards. The one difference in vinification from the other Rayas estates is the Merlot, which will be partially aged in new oak.

Meet the Producer

Chateau des Tours

Spoken about in hushed tones by many a collector, Chateau Rayas - and all of its arms from Fonsalette to Chateau des Tours - is known as the greatest Grenache producer in the world. After his uncle Jacques' passing in 1997, Emmanuel Reynaud has continually crafted phenomenal wines from each estate that are sought the world over.

Several generations have run the Chateau Rayas, but Jacques Reynaud took the wines into the stratosphere, where Emmanuel has only served to keep them since his ascendance in 1997. Almost as reticent in accepting his fame as Jacques - who used to hide when cars would approach the Chateau - Emmanuel guards closely his recipe to the legendary wines escaping the estate every year.

We know that the vines are ancient and produce small, intense yields. There is no temperature-control in the cellars, and the wines ferment in concrete before being transferred to ancient barrels of several different sizes. That's it - no magic tricks, just patience; the wines will ferment for about a year, and then will be aged in bottle at the estates until they are deemed ready to drink; routinely vintages are released nearly a decade after their fermentations conclude.

From Chateau des Tours in Vaucluse, 40 hectares of Grenache, Syrah, Merlot, Cinsault, Grenache Blanc and Clairette are planted to black sand vineyards. The one difference in vinification from the other Rayas estates is the Merlot, which will be partially aged in new oak.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

91

As I reported last year, the real sleeper, and a terrific wine that is still in the marketplace and selling for a song is the 2003 Vacqueyras, a blockbuster wine that is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah aged completely in cement tanks and old wood. Deep ruby/purple with a glorious nose of framboise, black cherry liqueur, and dusty, loamy soil notes, this wine is full-bodied and has low acidity but beautiful purity and richness. It should drink well for another decade.

Vinous

Vinous

92

Medium red. Explosive kirsch and cassis aromas, along with a strong smoked meat quality. Lush and ripe, with powerful cherry and dark berry flavors complicated by licorice and espresso accents. Supple tannins give structure to this weighty, concentrated wine and carry through the long, impressively sweet finish. Made from roughly 95% syrah, this is the estate's current release-and it will need some cellar time.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

91

As I reported last year, the real sleeper, and a terrific wine that is still in the marketplace and selling for a song is the 2003 Vacqueyras, a blockbuster wine that is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah aged completely in cement tanks and old wood. Deep ruby/purple with a glorious nose of framboise, black cherry liqueur, and dusty, loamy soil notes, this wine is full-bodied and has low acidity but beautiful purity and richness. It should drink well for another decade.

Vinous

Vinous

92

Medium red. Explosive kirsch and cassis aromas, along with a strong smoked meat quality. Lush and ripe, with powerful cherry and dark berry flavors complicated by licorice and espresso accents. Supple tannins give structure to this weighty, concentrated wine and carry through the long, impressively sweet finish. Made from roughly 95% syrah, this is the estate's current release-and it will need some cellar time.