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1993 Domaine Leroy, Pommard, Les Vignots
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  • Soiled Label

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Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Domaine Leroy

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Leroy

Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

NOTE: Prices quoted are for single bottles, not cases! Although the full-bodied, black/purple-colored Pommard Les Vignots is monolithic and unformed, it is massive, rich, powerful, and muscular. It needs 6-8 years of cellaring and should keep for 20+ years. When I traveled through Burgundy, it appeared Lalou Bize-Leroy may have as many critics as I do. Some producers accuse her of adding "Alicante" to her wines because she obtains such a deep color. Others claim she is hiding hundreds of cases of grand crus in another cellar since her yields cannot "possibly be so low." Of course all of this is nonsense, not to mention appallingly jealous behavior from producers who are scared to death that other growers might decide to follow in Lalou's footsteps. For now, Bize-Leroy stands at the top of the Burgundy pyramid, alone both literally and figuratively in her pursuit of the finest Burgundy can produce. I will keep my tasting notes brief, recognizing that in this situation it is almost criminal to try and describe wines that may be the greatest red Burgundies I will taste in my life. As even the immodest Lalou Bize-Leroy says, these wines are "an accident of nature." Tasting them, with their extraordinary ripeness, unctuosity, and opulence, with no hard tannin to be found, makes one think that 1993 was a completely different vintage for Domaine Leroy than it was for other Burgundians. Yes, Mama, low yields do translate into physiologically ripe fruit, concentrated wines, and exquisite quality. It goes without saying that everything in this cellar was aged in 100% new French oak (you cannot detect any oak in the wines because of their concentration), and bottled without fining or filtration - as usual. No, Cindy Crawford wasn't sitting on my lap as I was tasting through Leroy's 1993s, nor was I under the influence of either the effusive and persuasive Lalou Bize-Leroy or any chemical substance. My notes are mostly of academic interest since the quantities of wine produced at Domaine Leroy in 1993 are so preposterously low that only cases of certain wines are available. Bize-Leroy's biodynamic farming methods, which do not permit any type of spraying, resulted in yields ranging from as low as 5-6 hectoliters per hectare (about 1/3 ton per acre) to a whopping 1/2 ton per acre. Not one of her vineyards produced as much as one ton of fruit per acre (30 hectoliters per hectare). The microscopic quantities produced of some wines have not only ensured prices that only billionaires can afford, but have also made it virtually impossible to find the wines. For example, consider the total production - for the world - of the following wines: Chambertin (75 cases), Musigny (75 cases), Latricieres (25 cases), Clos de la Roche (50 cases), Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes (50 cases), Richebourg (100 cases), Romanee St.-Vivant (75 cases).

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

NOTE: Prices quoted are for single bottles, not cases! Although the full-bodied, black/purple-colored Pommard Les Vignots is monolithic and unformed, it is massive, rich, powerful, and muscular. It needs 6-8 years of cellaring and should keep for 20+ years. When I traveled through Burgundy, it appeared Lalou Bize-Leroy may have as many critics as I do. Some producers accuse her of adding "Alicante" to her wines because she obtains such a deep color. Others claim she is hiding hundreds of cases of grand crus in another cellar since her yields cannot "possibly be so low." Of course all of this is nonsense, not to mention appallingly jealous behavior from producers who are scared to death that other growers might decide to follow in Lalou's footsteps. For now, Bize-Leroy stands at the top of the Burgundy pyramid, alone both literally and figuratively in her pursuit of the finest Burgundy can produce. I will keep my tasting notes brief, recognizing that in this situation it is almost criminal to try and describe wines that may be the greatest red Burgundies I will taste in my life. As even the immodest Lalou Bize-Leroy says, these wines are "an accident of nature." Tasting them, with their extraordinary ripeness, unctuosity, and opulence, with no hard tannin to be found, makes one think that 1993 was a completely different vintage for Domaine Leroy than it was for other Burgundians. Yes, Mama, low yields do translate into physiologically ripe fruit, concentrated wines, and exquisite quality. It goes without saying that everything in this cellar was aged in 100% new French oak (you cannot detect any oak in the wines because of their concentration), and bottled without fining or filtration - as usual. No, Cindy Crawford wasn't sitting on my lap as I was tasting through Leroy's 1993s, nor was I under the influence of either the effusive and persuasive Lalou Bize-Leroy or any chemical substance. My notes are mostly of academic interest since the quantities of wine produced at Domaine Leroy in 1993 are so preposterously low that only cases of certain wines are available. Bize-Leroy's biodynamic farming methods, which do not permit any type of spraying, resulted in yields ranging from as low as 5-6 hectoliters per hectare (about 1/3 ton per acre) to a whopping 1/2 ton per acre. Not one of her vineyards produced as much as one ton of fruit per acre (30 hectoliters per hectare). The microscopic quantities produced of some wines have not only ensured prices that only billionaires can afford, but have also made it virtually impossible to find the wines. For example, consider the total production - for the world - of the following wines: Chambertin (75 cases), Musigny (75 cases), Latricieres (25 cases), Clos de la Roche (50 cases), Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes (50 cases), Richebourg (100 cases), Romanee St.-Vivant (75 cases).