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Wittmann

2022 Wittmann, La Borne Riesling Alte Reben Auction, Rheinhessen

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 750ML

Vinous

95-97
/
Wittmann

2022 Wittmann, La Borne Riesling Alte Reben Auction, Rheinhessen

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 750ML

Vinous

95-97
/

Produced solely in exceptional vintages, sourced from the oldest vineyards in Morstein, and exclusively available at the VDP auction in Bad Kreuznach. Fortunately, we managed to snag a few bottles. Only a limited production of 25 cases were made.

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A family estate of a cool four centuries of winemaking history in the Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann's fame and quality took a dramatic upturn starting with Günter Wittmann's decision to convert all of the family vineyards to organic viticulture in 1990. His son, Phillipp today runs the estate, and was crowned Germany's winemaker of the year in 2014. His Rieslings both dry and sweet have captivated in the past two decades, the hallmark an incredible purity and concentration of both minerals and fruit.

Wittmann

The vineyard holdings are impressive; Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein may sound familiar as Keller sources from these as well. Beyond those, the Wittmann family's warmest site is called Aulerde, located at the foot of Kirschspiel, Haley's favorite:

"Revisiting Kirchspiel four years later, not having had Wittmann in the interim, that same smile returned when I tasted the 2021 Kirchspiel GG. I couldn’t tear my nose away from the glass; the aromas were simply captivating. Upon taking a sip, it transported me back to that initial encounter with Wittmann and the fond memories of harvest. The acidity was zinging, dancing across my palate with nuances of minerals and an abundance of tropical and citrus flavors that delighted my taste buds. These wines are ethereal, evoking a profound sense of place and time; the 2021 is merely scratching the surface." - Haley O'Brien

La Borne Alte Reben Auktion is released via the VDP Auktion annually is from 45-year old vines from within Morstein; this is a supremely well-structured Riesling, replete with tropical fruits and spice elements that reveal after much air, along with herbal and mineral aromas and a long, refined finish. 

Aulerde GG is the warmest site of the estate, but with aromas of both ripe orchard and tropical fruits as well as earthy spices and herbs. Tart and taut in its youth, but zesty and long with age.  

Brunnenhäuschen GG has a bit more power to it, with plenty of herbs and hints of dark fruits as well. It's deserving of time in the cellar to reveal its juicy tendencies, but can be drunk earlier in life with a good amount of decanting beforehand, as it will be tart off the cork. 

Kirchspiel GG is a broader example than that of Keller, showing more orchard and stone fruits on the nose, while still quite bright and citrusy on the palate. Shows its class impeccably well with age or as a young wine. 

Morstein GG often proves to be very minerally in its youth, with defined citrus and herbs. As it develops, the fruit becomes more integrated and almost candied in nature, usually a broad, grand style that feels even more dry than the other GGs but in a good way. 

Morstein Kabinett is light and fresh, round and soft with a delightful dollop of sweetness to balance the bright, stony acidity. 

Westhofener Riesling is the younger-vined "Trocken" (dry) style, but still quite a serious wine. Will reward some air in the glass or decanter with loads of citrus, honey and delicate spices, and the air will allow the fleshiness to unveil to balance the acidity. 

Meet the Producer

Wittmann

A family estate of a cool four centuries of winemaking history in the Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann's fame and quality took a dramatic upturn starting with Günter Wittmann's decision to convert all of the family vineyards to organic viticulture in 1990. His son, Phillipp today runs the estate, and was crowned Germany's winemaker of the year in 2014. His Rieslings both dry and sweet have captivated in the past two decades, the hallmark an incredible purity and concentration of both minerals and fruit.

The vineyard holdings are impressive; Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein may sound familiar as Keller sources from these as well. Beyond those, the Wittmann family's warmest site is called Aulerde, located at the foot of Kirschspiel, Haley's favorite:

"Revisiting Kirchspiel four years later, not having had Wittmann in the interim, that same smile returned when I tasted the 2021 Kirchspiel GG. I couldn’t tear my nose away from the glass; the aromas were simply captivating. Upon taking a sip, it transported me back to that initial encounter with Wittmann and the fond memories of harvest. The acidity was zinging, dancing across my palate with nuances of minerals and an abundance of tropical and citrus flavors that delighted my taste buds. These wines are ethereal, evoking a profound sense of place and time; the 2021 is merely scratching the surface." - Haley O'Brien

La Borne Alte Reben Auktion is released via the VDP Auktion annually is from 45-year old vines from within Morstein; this is a supremely well-structured Riesling, replete with tropical fruits and spice elements that reveal after much air, along with herbal and mineral aromas and a long, refined finish. 

Aulerde GG is the warmest site of the estate, but with aromas of both ripe orchard and tropical fruits as well as earthy spices and herbs. Tart and taut in its youth, but zesty and long with age.  

Brunnenhäuschen GG has a bit more power to it, with plenty of herbs and hints of dark fruits as well. It's deserving of time in the cellar to reveal its juicy tendencies, but can be drunk earlier in life with a good amount of decanting beforehand, as it will be tart off the cork. 

Kirchspiel GG is a broader example than that of Keller, showing more orchard and stone fruits on the nose, while still quite bright and citrusy on the palate. Shows its class impeccably well with age or as a young wine. 

Morstein GG often proves to be very minerally in its youth, with defined citrus and herbs. As it develops, the fruit becomes more integrated and almost candied in nature, usually a broad, grand style that feels even more dry than the other GGs but in a good way. 

Morstein Kabinett is light and fresh, round and soft with a delightful dollop of sweetness to balance the bright, stony acidity. 

Westhofener Riesling is the younger-vined "Trocken" (dry) style, but still quite a serious wine. Will reward some air in the glass or decanter with loads of citrus, honey and delicate spices, and the air will allow the fleshiness to unveil to balance the acidity. 

Vinous

Vinous

95-97

The 2022 Riesling La Borne Alte Reben is a parcel within the upper reaches of the Morstein. Wittmann bought it in the mid-2000s and realized it felt different from Morstein. VDP regulations do not permit two wines of the same name, nor could he use the official name from the land registry, so the French term La Borne, or "boundary stone," was chosen, harking back to when Rheinhessen was French. The exact age of the vines is unknown. Wittmann reckons they are about 50 years old. The nose is still marked by ferment notions of yeast, not reduction. Underneath, slight lemon peeks through with a lifted sense of mossiness. The phenolic frame immediately makes itself felt, containing and corralling the lemon fruit and yeasty explosion on the mid-palate. Limestone depth is evident in cool radiance. Lemon zest drives the wine forward. There is direction and concentration, but also a real nuttiness. The finish is of serene, cool, long lemon. Utterly mouth-watering. Available at auction: 300 bottles. (Bone-dry)

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

95-97

The 2022 Riesling La Borne Alte Reben is a parcel within the upper reaches of the Morstein. Wittmann bought it in the mid-2000s and realized it felt different from Morstein. VDP regulations do not permit two wines of the same name, nor could he use the official name from the land registry, so the French term La Borne, or "boundary stone," was chosen, harking back to when Rheinhessen was French. The exact age of the vines is unknown. Wittmann reckons they are about 50 years old. The nose is still marked by ferment notions of yeast, not reduction. Underneath, slight lemon peeks through with a lifted sense of mossiness. The phenolic frame immediately makes itself felt, containing and corralling the lemon fruit and yeasty explosion on the mid-palate. Limestone depth is evident in cool radiance. Lemon zest drives the wine forward. There is direction and concentration, but also a real nuttiness. The finish is of serene, cool, long lemon. Utterly mouth-watering. Available at auction: 300 bottles. (Bone-dry)