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Peter Jakob Kuhn

2011 Peter Jakob Kuhn, Mittelheimer St Nikolaus Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs, Rheingau

Germany Riesling Rheingau 750ML

Wine Advocate

89

Vinous

91
/
2011 Peter Jakob Kuhn, Mittelheimer St Nikolaus Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs, Rheingau
Peter Jakob Kuhn

2011 Peter Jakob Kuhn, Mittelheimer St Nikolaus Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs, Rheingau

Germany Riesling Rheingau 750ML

Wine Advocate

89

Vinous

91
/
PRE-ARRIVAL
3 To Come

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These wines are currently on the way to Thatcher’s Wine. We have sourced them from some of our clients' private cellars, our friends in Europe, direct from the domaine or through our other trusted networks. On each product you will note an estimated time of arrival. Understand that these are only estimates, and to ensure that your wine arrives safely it may be longer. Utilizing this method allows us to offer some amazing wines and gives you the opportunity to secure them earlier. Upon arrival at TWC you will receive a notification and we will ship the wines to you.

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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

89

Amazingly, after tasting the range of Kuhn’s tank-raised wines, you have to attend carefully to pick up notes from wood in this one, yet it sojourned in a new Taunus 1,200 liter oak. An intense, high-toned aroma of mirabelle distillate, resinous herbs and lemon rind surges from the glass of Kuhn 2011 Mittelheimer St. Nikolaus Riesling trocken, and on a full palate mingle with nut oils and salt. Piquancy of pip and pit shade into bitterness in the finish, blocking (as might also, perhaps, the wine’s 13% alcohol) just a bit of the sheer juiciness that characterizes most wines in the present collection. Still, this should prove well worth revisiting and employing through 2016. Kuhn was the most nervous of many nervous Rheingau vintners whom I visited in the third week of September, 2011, and he had begun harvesting in fear that the weather might continue warm and rainy and that any later start would make it impossible to salvage an entire crop. “We couldn’t believe how the weather then turned,” he related a year later, “to the extent that we didn’t even have to go picking over a couple of weekends but could rest up. And at the end, I was almost sorry the harvest was over, as the weather was still so good.” As just intimated, Kuhn was too preoccupied with the consequences of rain falling on his ripe bunches to spend much time with me in September, 2011. His wife Angela explained at the time that they had indulged in some de-acidification of 2010 vintage musts with calcium carbonate (as in 1994, too), simply to guarantee the malolactic transformation that is understood for dry wines at this address, encouraging long-term stability with minimal or no filtration and low sulfur. Incidentally, Kuhn is renewing and expanding his range of 1,200-liter Stuckfasser with ones of local Taunus oak selected on site by Austrian cooper Franz Stockinger. But to the extent that significant percentages of new or young oak have been used, it has only occasionally resulted in diminution of Riesling- or site-typical virtues. (And as at Von Winning in the Pfalz, where my similar and contemporaneous concerns about the influence of new wood have largely been similarly assuaged, this changing of the cellar guard has been limited to a brief period in time.)

Vinous

Vinous

91

Apricot pit, linseed oil and a touch of nutmeg on the nose. Pungent, full-bodied flavor of muskmelon is given focus by slightly austere tannins. The wine's chewy texture and herbal element stand in stark contrast to the lurking minerality on the finish. An idiosyncratic interpretation of riesling that will have both admirers and critics.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

89

Amazingly, after tasting the range of Kuhn’s tank-raised wines, you have to attend carefully to pick up notes from wood in this one, yet it sojourned in a new Taunus 1,200 liter oak. An intense, high-toned aroma of mirabelle distillate, resinous herbs and lemon rind surges from the glass of Kuhn 2011 Mittelheimer St. Nikolaus Riesling trocken, and on a full palate mingle with nut oils and salt. Piquancy of pip and pit shade into bitterness in the finish, blocking (as might also, perhaps, the wine’s 13% alcohol) just a bit of the sheer juiciness that characterizes most wines in the present collection. Still, this should prove well worth revisiting and employing through 2016. Kuhn was the most nervous of many nervous Rheingau vintners whom I visited in the third week of September, 2011, and he had begun harvesting in fear that the weather might continue warm and rainy and that any later start would make it impossible to salvage an entire crop. “We couldn’t believe how the weather then turned,” he related a year later, “to the extent that we didn’t even have to go picking over a couple of weekends but could rest up. And at the end, I was almost sorry the harvest was over, as the weather was still so good.” As just intimated, Kuhn was too preoccupied with the consequences of rain falling on his ripe bunches to spend much time with me in September, 2011. His wife Angela explained at the time that they had indulged in some de-acidification of 2010 vintage musts with calcium carbonate (as in 1994, too), simply to guarantee the malolactic transformation that is understood for dry wines at this address, encouraging long-term stability with minimal or no filtration and low sulfur. Incidentally, Kuhn is renewing and expanding his range of 1,200-liter Stuckfasser with ones of local Taunus oak selected on site by Austrian cooper Franz Stockinger. But to the extent that significant percentages of new or young oak have been used, it has only occasionally resulted in diminution of Riesling- or site-typical virtues. (And as at Von Winning in the Pfalz, where my similar and contemporaneous concerns about the influence of new wood have largely been similarly assuaged, this changing of the cellar guard has been limited to a brief period in time.)

Vinous

Vinous

91

Apricot pit, linseed oil and a touch of nutmeg on the nose. Pungent, full-bodied flavor of muskmelon is given focus by slightly austere tannins. The wine's chewy texture and herbal element stand in stark contrast to the lurking minerality on the finish. An idiosyncratic interpretation of riesling that will have both admirers and critics.