Vaira Aurelj
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Vaira Aurelj is a self-described "boutique" winery in Piedmont's Barolo zone, run by two brothers whose collective passion is greater than the sum of their parts. Stirred on by their late father's own passion and methodologies, the two men will only produce what their own four hands can. Thus, for the keen-eyed collector, these bottles that are rare enough for critics not to have landed any as of yet, these are pure gems. From small plots to which they are thoroughly dedicated, the Vaira brothers release four wines annually, the imprint of the range being the overall elegance. While being clear these are not commercialized, hyper-sterilized wines, that presents itself in the most delicious, complex and, well, passion-inspiring ways.
Named after their father Aurelio [and utilizing the local dialect for the title], brothers Francesco & Giacomo run a tight ship - really, it's just them. Their true dedication is in the vineyards, where they feel the wines are truly born. Utilizing some of the most sought-after and rare clones of Nebbiolo, their Langhe & Barolo wines have developed a furious following.
Controcorrente is a unique Nebbiolo made from the nearly-extinct rosé clone that produces a lighter, more aromatic and delicate style - made utilizing only the free-run juice. Fuori Zona, or "FZ", is another Langhe Nebbiolo from just outside the Barolo zone, with partial whole-clusters and allowed to ferment naturally using the free-run juice from the grapes' weight.
Barolo Fossati is from about a third of a hectare plot on clay-limestone soils with some sand. Wholly de-stemmed, and aged in neutral barrels & barriques.
It's hard to overstate the lift and elegance of these wines, keeping in step with so many of those we've fallen in love with here - LaLu, Ca' di Press, D'Arcy - as Nebbiolo even the tannin-phobic can find a way to love.
