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Roc Breia

2022 Roc Breia, Chardonnay, VdF

France Chardonnay Burgundy Macon Bray 750ML

Wine Advocate

92
/
2022 Roc Breia, Chardonnay, VdF
Roc Breia

2022 Roc Breia, Chardonnay, VdF

France Chardonnay Burgundy Macon Bray 750ML

Wine Advocate

92
/

THE VINEYARD Blend of vineyards from 1944, 1945, 1976, 1977

FERMENTATION & AGING large used barrels 350-500L

BOTTLES PRODUCED 6000

6 - 750ML Limit

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The eponymous Théo Dancer wines have given him the ability to be more playful and use different grape varieties from across France. Under the Roc Breïa label, there lies an opportunity to grow a vineyard from the ground up.

Roc Breia

If you have been following along with Théo Dancer's evolution, a common thread is his eagerness to learn, grow, and think outside the box—all while not leaving behind the practices that have clearly served him and his family well.

At the Domaine, he has stayed true to tradition. And his eponymous Théo Dancer wines have given him the ability to be more playful and experiment with different grape varieties across France. But under the Roc Breïa label, Théo was presented with the opportunity to grow a vineyard from the ground up. The farming philosophy is similar to that of the Domaine. What is unique to this 10.5ha plot in the Mâcon is that it was farmed conventionally prior; "When seeing the plot there wasn't life – that was a challenge, but an exciting challenge." This sort of blank slate gave Théo the opportunity to use farming techniques he learned from his father and implement them into a new site, starting from scratch and seeing it come to life.

In the Côte d'Or, it is traditional to see many different cuvées in a Domaine's range. Théo wanted to pursue something a bit simpler for Roc Breïa, using 10.5ha just to make two wines: a Chardonnay coming from 60+ year-old vines and a Pinot Noir coming from vines 35+ years old.

Théo's Notes on the 2024 Vintage

"The 2024 vintage in Burgundy turned out to be particularly challenging from a weather standpoint starting in May. The weather gave us no respite, with repeated rainfall that made vineyard protection difficult to manage. Downy mildew was especially aggressive and caused a significant loss of crop after flowering. One small consolation with mildew is that it affects quantity rather than quality, as the affected berries simply dry out.

Once the wines were in the cellar, however, the vintage proved to be remarkably impressive, and we were very pleased with the overall sanitary condition of the grapes at harvest time. Yields were extremely low, but this brought, in my view, great concentration and vibrancy. It is a fresher vintage, with harvest beginning on September 10th at Roc Breïa. A return to a more classic Burgundian style, somewhat reminiscent of 2021, which remains one of my favourite vintages so far.

For us, 2024 marks a new step forward in terms of quality, and each new vintage shows us a little more that our vineyard work is starting to pay off. We hope you will feel it in your glass when you open this new vintage."
See More at Thatcher's Imports

Meet the Producer

The eponymous Théo Dancer wines have given him the ability to be more playful and use different grape varieties from across France. Under the Roc Breïa label, there lies an opportunity to grow a vineyard from the ground up.

Roc Breia

If you have been following along with Théo Dancer's evolution, a common thread is his eagerness to learn, grow, and think outside the box—all while not leaving behind the practices that have clearly served him and his family well.

At the Domaine, he has stayed true to tradition. And his eponymous Théo Dancer wines have given him the ability to be more playful and experiment with different grape varieties across France. But under the Roc Breïa label, Théo was presented with the opportunity to grow a vineyard from the ground up. The farming philosophy is similar to that of the Domaine. What is unique to this 10.5ha plot in the Mâcon is that it was farmed conventionally prior; "When seeing the plot there wasn't life – that was a challenge, but an exciting challenge." This sort of blank slate gave Théo the opportunity to use farming techniques he learned from his father and implement them into a new site, starting from scratch and seeing it come to life.

In the Côte d'Or, it is traditional to see many different cuvées in a Domaine's range. Théo wanted to pursue something a bit simpler for Roc Breïa, using 10.5ha just to make two wines: a Chardonnay coming from 60+ year-old vines and a Pinot Noir coming from vines 35+ years old.

Théo's Notes on the 2024 Vintage

"The 2024 vintage in Burgundy turned out to be particularly challenging from a weather standpoint starting in May. The weather gave us no respite, with repeated rainfall that made vineyard protection difficult to manage. Downy mildew was especially aggressive and caused a significant loss of crop after flowering. One small consolation with mildew is that it affects quantity rather than quality, as the affected berries simply dry out.

Once the wines were in the cellar, however, the vintage proved to be remarkably impressive, and we were very pleased with the overall sanitary condition of the grapes at harvest time. Yields were extremely low, but this brought, in my view, great concentration and vibrancy. It is a fresher vintage, with harvest beginning on September 10th at Roc Breïa. A return to a more classic Burgundian style, somewhat reminiscent of 2021, which remains one of my favourite vintages so far.

For us, 2024 marks a new step forward in terms of quality, and each new vintage shows us a little more that our vineyard work is starting to pay off. We hope you will feel it in your glass when you open this new vintage."
See More at Thatcher's Imports

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The 2022 Chardonnay has turned out beautifully, bursting with aromas of pear, white flowers, bread dough and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate with a satiny attack that segues into a charming, lively mid-palate, with good cut and a saline finish. Dancer sold off two-thirds of his crop in 2021, but the quality of his raw materials in 2022 should permit a less draconian selection. As I wrote last year, Roc Breïa is an exciting new project in the Mâconnais led by Chassagne-Montrachet's Théo Dancer. There has long been a domaine at this site in the hamlet of Bray, but its fruit was always sold to the négoce. When its owners wanted to sell, two investors decided to buy it—one of them being the courtier who used to sell the crop in the past. Dancer heard of the acquisition and went to see the vineyards; he immediately proposed to sign up as a consultant but only on the condition that he'd control the whole affair from A to Z, beginning with the farming and ending with the allocations. He took over on July 1, 2021, in the midst of a challenging growing season and has produced a fine debut vintage. But what the future holds is surely even more exciting: amounting to some 10 hectares, all in one single block, this site, in contrast with the morcellated holdings of the Côte de Beaune, is ideally suited to organic farming and agroforestry initiatives. Dancer is already working to bring the soils back into balance, leaving cover crops and manually cultivating under the rows, so this will be a project to follow closely. In the cellar, winemaking is very simple: Chardonnay must ferments in used 500-liter barrels at its own pace, and Pinot Noir sees very gentle macerations with a certain percentage of whole bunch, similarly followed by maturation in used 500-liter barrels. Dancer then makes a rigorous barrel selection, eliminating anything he doesn't like from the final blend. There are only be two cuvées, a red and a white, both released as Vin de France to avoid treading on neighbors' toes. The 2022s, which I tasted from barrel, exhibit predictably more density and muscle than the 2021s reviewed last year, and the red in particular looks to be built to reward a bit of patience: so drink the 2021s first.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The 2022 Chardonnay has turned out beautifully, bursting with aromas of pear, white flowers, bread dough and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate with a satiny attack that segues into a charming, lively mid-palate, with good cut and a saline finish. Dancer sold off two-thirds of his crop in 2021, but the quality of his raw materials in 2022 should permit a less draconian selection. As I wrote last year, Roc Breïa is an exciting new project in the Mâconnais led by Chassagne-Montrachet's Théo Dancer. There has long been a domaine at this site in the hamlet of Bray, but its fruit was always sold to the négoce. When its owners wanted to sell, two investors decided to buy it—one of them being the courtier who used to sell the crop in the past. Dancer heard of the acquisition and went to see the vineyards; he immediately proposed to sign up as a consultant but only on the condition that he'd control the whole affair from A to Z, beginning with the farming and ending with the allocations. He took over on July 1, 2021, in the midst of a challenging growing season and has produced a fine debut vintage. But what the future holds is surely even more exciting: amounting to some 10 hectares, all in one single block, this site, in contrast with the morcellated holdings of the Côte de Beaune, is ideally suited to organic farming and agroforestry initiatives. Dancer is already working to bring the soils back into balance, leaving cover crops and manually cultivating under the rows, so this will be a project to follow closely. In the cellar, winemaking is very simple: Chardonnay must ferments in used 500-liter barrels at its own pace, and Pinot Noir sees very gentle macerations with a certain percentage of whole bunch, similarly followed by maturation in used 500-liter barrels. Dancer then makes a rigorous barrel selection, eliminating anything he doesn't like from the final blend. There are only be two cuvées, a red and a white, both released as Vin de France to avoid treading on neighbors' toes. The 2022s, which I tasted from barrel, exhibit predictably more density and muscle than the 2021s reviewed last year, and the red in particular looks to be built to reward a bit of patience: so drink the 2021s first.