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Girolamo Russo

2022 Girolamo Russo, San Lorenzo Bianco, Etna Bianco

Italy Carricante Catarratto Grecanico Sicily Etna Bianco 750ML

Wine Advocate

93

Vinous

93
/
2022 Girolamo Russo, San Lorenzo Bianco, Etna Bianco
Girolamo Russo

2022 Girolamo Russo, San Lorenzo Bianco, Etna Bianco

Italy Carricante Catarratto Grecanico Sicily Etna Bianco 750ML

Wine Advocate

93

Vinous

93
/

A blend of 90% Carricante and 10% other native Sicilian varieties, sourced from 80-year-old vines interspersed among red grape vines at 750m altitude. The grapes undergo a 4-hour skin maceration, with no malolactic fermentation, preserving freshness and vibrancy. The wine is then aged for 6 months in used barriques and tonneaux before release, adding texture and depth. The ‘22 vintage resulted in wines with more restrained acidity, approachability, and a rounder body compared to the cooler ‘21’s.

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With wines exponentially more flamboyant and outgoing than he, Giuseppe of Girolamo Russo has made a fine name for himself in the vibrant world of Sicily's Mount Etna. Known for invigorating and age-worthy reds and whites from single-vineyard plots, the highlights here are many, but all of them inspired, individual examples of the wild complexities that Etna possesses.

Girolamo Russo

While the estate takes the name of his father, it is Giuseppe Rosso who is behind one of the favorite names in the Etna-ssance that is ongoing. A native of Passopisciaro - a village on the north face of the Volcano, Giuseppe was not trained in oenology, yet had somewhat unknowingly spent his early years training to make wine.

Girolamo oversaw 12 hectares of vines in Passopisciaro, selling his grapes in bulk to help make ends meet when Giuseppe was young. While Russo the younger had studied both music (namely piano) and literature, in 2004 he was given the opportunity to take hold of his father's vines. This was an exciting time on the great slopes of Etna - notable vinous legends such as Salvo Foti and Frank Cornelissen were metaphorically and literally building roots in Etna, and Giuseppe took the opportunity to learn from his neighbors and future mentors - admitting his knowledge was limited to experience only, and absorbing lessons from every one of them.

What this has borne out is a love and care for each individual site as its own character in the "plot" - I mean that as in an element to a story, but it could easily be a physical plot. You see, Etna's every corner and slope is full of wildly different extremes, redefined over eons by liquid hot magma - thank you, Dr. Evil. Taking a cue from his mentors as well as from centuries of tradition (and learn-ed knowledge), the vines are trained in alberello formation - bush-trained, in a way, but in a perfect geometrical formation that resembles a box-and-one basketball defense: four square, the fifth in the middle. This allows for the perfect strain on each and every vine to maximize the concentration of each cluster.

Gifted some vines nearly a century old from his father's stock, Giuseppe's wines are not as humble and shy as he - much the opposite. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are chief here, with a nice splash of Carricante to produce the vibrant whites as well. Everything is performed organically in the vineyard as it has been for over a century, and in the cellar, small-lot fermentations are the preference in Slavonian oak and cement vessels.

Meet the Producer

Girolamo Russo

With wines exponentially more flamboyant and outgoing than he, Giuseppe of Girolamo Russo has made a fine name for himself in the vibrant world of Sicily's Mount Etna. Known for invigorating and age-worthy reds and whites from single-vineyard plots, the highlights here are many, but all of them inspired, individual examples of the wild complexities that Etna possesses.

While the estate takes the name of his father, it is Giuseppe Rosso who is behind one of the favorite names in the Etna-ssance that is ongoing. A native of Passopisciaro - a village on the north face of the Volcano, Giuseppe was not trained in oenology, yet had somewhat unknowingly spent his early years training to make wine.

Girolamo oversaw 12 hectares of vines in Passopisciaro, selling his grapes in bulk to help make ends meet when Giuseppe was young. While Russo the younger had studied both music (namely piano) and literature, in 2004 he was given the opportunity to take hold of his father's vines. This was an exciting time on the great slopes of Etna - notable vinous legends such as Salvo Foti and Frank Cornelissen were metaphorically and literally building roots in Etna, and Giuseppe took the opportunity to learn from his neighbors and future mentors - admitting his knowledge was limited to experience only, and absorbing lessons from every one of them.

What this has borne out is a love and care for each individual site as its own character in the "plot" - I mean that as in an element to a story, but it could easily be a physical plot. You see, Etna's every corner and slope is full of wildly different extremes, redefined over eons by liquid hot magma - thank you, Dr. Evil. Taking a cue from his mentors as well as from centuries of tradition (and learn-ed knowledge), the vines are trained in alberello formation - bush-trained, in a way, but in a perfect geometrical formation that resembles a box-and-one basketball defense: four square, the fifth in the middle. This allows for the perfect strain on each and every vine to maximize the concentration of each cluster.

Gifted some vines nearly a century old from his father's stock, Giuseppe's wines are not as humble and shy as he - much the opposite. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are chief here, with a nice splash of Carricante to produce the vibrant whites as well. Everything is performed organically in the vineyard as it has been for over a century, and in the cellar, small-lot fermentations are the preference in Slavonian oak and cement vessels.

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

With just a few vintages under his belt, Giuseppe Russo has created a beautiful top-shelf white from Etna. His Girolamo Russo 2022 Etna Bianco San Lorenzo is 90% Carricante and 10% Grecanico that starts off in steel and is then racked over to oak, where it stays for a few months. No malolactic fermentation occurs. I tasted this sample about one month after it had been bottled, and at this young stage, the bouquet is very focused on citrus and salty mineral. But look beyond those two aromatic pillars and the wine begins to reveal subtle layers of green apple (that could come from the Grecanico), quince, pear and saffron. It shows shy but compelling complexity.

Vinous

Vinous

93

The 2022 Etna Bianco San Lorenzo seduces as honeyed florals and almond custard give way to crushed white peaches and an enriching air of hazelnut. It's soothingly round and pliant, with a saline tinge up front that perfectly offsets the ripe orchard fruits within. A stream of zesty acidity enlivens the experience as this tapers off long and remarkably fresh, leaving a salty nuance that calls the taster back to the glass. The 2022 hails from vines at 800 meters in elevation that were harvested about one week earlier than average due to the conditions of the year. The balance here is otherworldly.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

With just a few vintages under his belt, Giuseppe Russo has created a beautiful top-shelf white from Etna. His Girolamo Russo 2022 Etna Bianco San Lorenzo is 90% Carricante and 10% Grecanico that starts off in steel and is then racked over to oak, where it stays for a few months. No malolactic fermentation occurs. I tasted this sample about one month after it had been bottled, and at this young stage, the bouquet is very focused on citrus and salty mineral. But look beyond those two aromatic pillars and the wine begins to reveal subtle layers of green apple (that could come from the Grecanico), quince, pear and saffron. It shows shy but compelling complexity.

Vinous

Vinous

93

The 2022 Etna Bianco San Lorenzo seduces as honeyed florals and almond custard give way to crushed white peaches and an enriching air of hazelnut. It's soothingly round and pliant, with a saline tinge up front that perfectly offsets the ripe orchard fruits within. A stream of zesty acidity enlivens the experience as this tapers off long and remarkably fresh, leaving a salty nuance that calls the taster back to the glass. The 2022 hails from vines at 800 meters in elevation that were harvested about one week earlier than average due to the conditions of the year. The balance here is otherworldly.