Lucien Aviet & Fils
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When you pick up a bottle of Aviet, youknow you've got something special in your hands. There's enough mystery to invoke intrigue, but enough guarantee by the intricacies of the label that someone sank their heart into the wine. The specialties here are the classic Jura white & red grapes, which in the glass evolve from savory to primary to a vibrant blend of both.
Lucien Aviet made his name as a specialist in Trousseau, the classic local Jura red grape that in the glass can resemble a Pinot Noir with a San Francisco Bay-esque fog hung over it. Trousseau and Ploussard are also thin-skinned red grapes - like Pinot - but often take on a delicately-spiced, slightly more savory red-fruited tone. In the right hands - like those of the Aviet family - they come to life in glorious ways.
Lucien, who was dubbed "Bacchus" by his peers, recently handed the reins to his son, Vincent, who has carried on the traditions well. In addition to the reds, there are non-Ouille (read: "yes oxidation") and another white grape [somewhat confusingly} called Melon a Queue Rouge - actually a genetic mutation of Chardonnay.
Work in the vineyard and the cellar is almost entirely manual: grapes are de-stemmed and aged in foudres until deemed perfectly ready for consumption. "Reserve de Caveau" whites are 100% Savagnin; Cuvee de Confrerie is the Vin Jaune, and Cuvee des Docteurs blanc is the Melon a Queue Rouge. For the reds, there is a wider variety: Cuvee des Geologues denotes Trousseau-based wines, including some single-parcel wines: Rosiere, Ruzard-Rosiere (two plots blended together in a short vintage), Bruyere, Nonceau, Poussot and Marne Rouge. The "229" refers to the incredble length of the fermentation (in days) of one year's harvest! "Cuvee des Docteurs" reds are Ploussard-based.