In Champagne, there is a big generational shift similar to Burgundy. The new generation is taking their families’ domaines and making drastic changes. Being the avid Champagne lovers we are, we couldn’t be more excited.
Fabian from Champagne Chavost is one of those generational movers. He is making quite a splash in defining the idea of a grower, negociant and/or co-op. The trend in recent years has been to look for the term RM, or focus on growers, but this is evolving. Buying land in champagne isn’t easy. Young winemakers are looking for other ways to follow their dreams; buying grapes from growers they trust and operating under negoce is a very suitable option. For example, Fabian still operates under his family’s co-op. Fabian sits on the board of their 5ha co-op and made the decision to declare, “We are going organic”. Albeit aggressive, it was the only way to sway them into organic farming and show that it is the way of the future. Fabian took the time to invest in sharing his goals and passion with members through a series of tastings and educational conversations. This approach has worked quite well. They have gotten a nice portion of their growers to farm organically since 2016. These grapes have since been included in the new wines of Champagne Chavost.
It is Fabian’s goal to add nothing to his wines. He currently adds no sulfur at bottling (a feat quite rare in Champagne). After tasting the wines, we clearly see why. The wines are pure, transparent and easy to drink. In his arsenal, he makes a series of “glu glu” champagnes and wines that are fully no addition. The wines that are sans soufre are the Rose de Saignee, Coteaux Champenois, and the cuvee Eurêka.
Champagne Chavost is located in Chavot-Courcourt. It is an interesting place in Champagne; technically, the village is part of the Coteaux-sud d’ Epernay which acts as a continuation to the Côte de Blancs. When you stand at the top of the vineyard you understand why you are a bit unsure of where you are - you are in the center of Champagne. To your right, the Côte de Blancs, straight ahead is the Montagne de Reims just over the mountainside, towards the left and continuing further you see the Vallee de la Marne. The top of the vineyards are full of limestone moving to more chalk mid slope.
His “Glu Glu” Champagnes are 'made' in the vineyard using organic farming and spontaneous yeasts. Starting fermentation is usually done by gravity. Never seeing any barrel, the wines are drinkable, pure, and all about freshness.
FERMENTATION
Spontaneous yeasts
Temperature controlled to preserve the indigenous yeasts
AGING
4 months in stainless steel tank
At least 20 months in bottle - No sulfur at bottling - ever!
