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Girolamo Russo

2022 Girolamo Russo, Calderara Sottana, Etna Rosso

Italy Nerello Cappuccio Nerello Mascalese Sicily Etna Rosso 750ML

Wine Advocate

94

Vinous

95
/
2022 Girolamo Russo, Calderara Sottana, Etna Rosso
Girolamo Russo

2022 Girolamo Russo, Calderara Sottana, Etna Rosso

Italy Nerello Cappuccio Nerello Mascalese Sicily Etna Rosso 750ML

Wine Advocate

94

Vinous

95
/

A blend of 94% Nerello Mascalese and 6% Nerello Cappuccio, sourced from 50-year-old vines in the Calderara Sottana contrada at 500m altitude. The vines were planted in the 1970s by massal selection. About 20% of the grapes are left as whole bunches, macerated on the skins for 24 hours. The wine is aged for 18 months in tonneaux, followed by at least 6 months in bottle before release.

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With wines exponentially more flamboyant and outgoing than he, Giuseppe of Girolamo Russo has made a fine name for himself in the vibrant world of Sicily's Mount Etna. Known for invigorating and age-worthy reds and whites from single-vineyard plots, the highlights here are many, but all of them inspired, individual examples of the wild complexities that Etna possesses.

Girolamo Russo

While the estate takes the name of his father, it is Giuseppe Rosso who is behind one of the favorite names in the Etna-ssance that is ongoing. A native of Passopisciaro - a village on the north face of the Volcano, Giuseppe was not trained in oenology, yet had somewhat unknowingly spent his early years training to make wine.

Girolamo oversaw 12 hectares of vines in Passopisciaro, selling his grapes in bulk to help make ends meet when Giuseppe was young. While Russo the younger had studied both music (namely piano) and literature, in 2004 he was given the opportunity to take hold of his father's vines. This was an exciting time on the great slopes of Etna - notable vinous legends such as Salvo Foti and Frank Cornelissen were metaphorically and literally building roots in Etna, and Giuseppe took the opportunity to learn from his neighbors and future mentors - admitting his knowledge was limited to experience only, and absorbing lessons from every one of them.

What this has borne out is a love and care for each individual site as its own character in the "plot" - I mean that as in an element to a story, but it could easily be a physical plot. You see, Etna's every corner and slope is full of wildly different extremes, redefined over eons by liquid hot magma - thank you, Dr. Evil. Taking a cue from his mentors as well as from centuries of tradition (and learn-ed knowledge), the vines are trained in alberello formation - bush-trained, in a way, but in a perfect geometrical formation that resembles a box-and-one basketball defense: four square, the fifth in the middle. This allows for the perfect strain on each and every vine to maximize the concentration of each cluster.

Gifted some vines nearly a century old from his father's stock, Giuseppe's wines are not as humble and shy as he - much the opposite. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are chief here, with a nice splash of Carricante to produce the vibrant whites as well. Everything is performed organically in the vineyard as it has been for over a century, and in the cellar, small-lot fermentations are the preference in Slavonian oak and cement vessels.

Meet the Producer

Girolamo Russo

With wines exponentially more flamboyant and outgoing than he, Giuseppe of Girolamo Russo has made a fine name for himself in the vibrant world of Sicily's Mount Etna. Known for invigorating and age-worthy reds and whites from single-vineyard plots, the highlights here are many, but all of them inspired, individual examples of the wild complexities that Etna possesses.

While the estate takes the name of his father, it is Giuseppe Rosso who is behind one of the favorite names in the Etna-ssance that is ongoing. A native of Passopisciaro - a village on the north face of the Volcano, Giuseppe was not trained in oenology, yet had somewhat unknowingly spent his early years training to make wine.

Girolamo oversaw 12 hectares of vines in Passopisciaro, selling his grapes in bulk to help make ends meet when Giuseppe was young. While Russo the younger had studied both music (namely piano) and literature, in 2004 he was given the opportunity to take hold of his father's vines. This was an exciting time on the great slopes of Etna - notable vinous legends such as Salvo Foti and Frank Cornelissen were metaphorically and literally building roots in Etna, and Giuseppe took the opportunity to learn from his neighbors and future mentors - admitting his knowledge was limited to experience only, and absorbing lessons from every one of them.

What this has borne out is a love and care for each individual site as its own character in the "plot" - I mean that as in an element to a story, but it could easily be a physical plot. You see, Etna's every corner and slope is full of wildly different extremes, redefined over eons by liquid hot magma - thank you, Dr. Evil. Taking a cue from his mentors as well as from centuries of tradition (and learn-ed knowledge), the vines are trained in alberello formation - bush-trained, in a way, but in a perfect geometrical formation that resembles a box-and-one basketball defense: four square, the fifth in the middle. This allows for the perfect strain on each and every vine to maximize the concentration of each cluster.

Gifted some vines nearly a century old from his father's stock, Giuseppe's wines are not as humble and shy as he - much the opposite. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are chief here, with a nice splash of Carricante to produce the vibrant whites as well. Everything is performed organically in the vineyard as it has been for over a century, and in the cellar, small-lot fermentations are the preference in Slavonian oak and cement vessels.

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

The Girolamo Russo 2022 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio from 90-year-old plants at a moderate 500 meters in elevation. The wine reveals a dark ruby color with plenty of shine. Mineral nuances are laced throughout its elegantly lean-bodied finish. You also recognize wild cherry, redcurrant and a spicy hint of clove. It ends on a finely polished note that adds to an enduring sense of length. This is a release of 3,000 bottles.

Vinous

Vinous

95

The 2022 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is dusty, with a beguiling blend of rose petals and geraniums giving way to cloves and woodland berries. Cool-toned and pliant, this maintains its floral character throughout while adding hints of sour citrus that add primary depths. Calderara Sottana minerality and gripping tannins come through on the finish as the 2022 leaves the senses saturated, while a resonance of brown spice lingers on. Have patience with this beastly effort—it may be even better with time.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

The Girolamo Russo 2022 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio from 90-year-old plants at a moderate 500 meters in elevation. The wine reveals a dark ruby color with plenty of shine. Mineral nuances are laced throughout its elegantly lean-bodied finish. You also recognize wild cherry, redcurrant and a spicy hint of clove. It ends on a finely polished note that adds to an enduring sense of length. This is a release of 3,000 bottles.

Vinous

Vinous

95

The 2022 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is dusty, with a beguiling blend of rose petals and geraniums giving way to cloves and woodland berries. Cool-toned and pliant, this maintains its floral character throughout while adding hints of sour citrus that add primary depths. Calderara Sottana minerality and gripping tannins come through on the finish as the 2022 leaves the senses saturated, while a resonance of brown spice lingers on. Have patience with this beastly effort—it may be even better with time.