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Comando G

2022 Comando G, Vinos de Madrid, La Bruja De Rozas

Spain Grenache Madrid Vinos de Madrid 750ML

Wine Advocate

94

Vinous

93
/
2022 Comando G, Vinos de Madrid, La Bruja De Rozas
Comando G

2022 Comando G, Vinos de Madrid, La Bruja De Rozas

Spain Grenache Madrid Vinos de Madrid 750ML

Wine Advocate

94

Vinous

93
/

The village-level label, La Bruja De Rozas is a perfect introduction to the style of Comando G. The elegance may slightly remind of Pinot Noir, but the bright red raspberry and strawberry fruit, savory, almost rock-like texture is distinctly Grenache—a softer, plusher example from this producer. Fermented and aged 9 months in 15-60hL French oak vats

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Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, two friends and vignerons are reimagining what it means to produce Spanish Garnacha, sourcing from old-vine, high-altitude vineyards in the Sierra de Gredos mountains. Their bottlings have quickly become highly collectible as their examples of Garnacha are perhaps the most pure this side of Chateau Rayas.

Comando G

Just an hour from the capital city of Madrid, in the foothills of the rugged Sierra de Gredos mountain range, two friends and vignerons are reimagining what it means to produce Spanish Garnacha. Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, both from respected winemaking families, combined forces and began seeking out vineyards in the remote, barely accessible sites of the Gredos mountain range. The outcome: Grenaches with beautiful fruit concentration, rich texture, and balance of alcohol and acidity. At their best, these wines can evoke comparisons with the best Grenaches of Southern Rhone (dare I say, Rayas?) and bring out the perfect combination of fruit, spice, savory, earthy, and mineral quality for incredible depth.

Daniel was born into a winemaking family but had higher aspirations, literally and figuratively: he and his school friend Fernando sought out some of the most extreme vineyards in the Sierra de Gredos mountain ranges, old, wrought vines that could showcase the true potential of Garnacha and change the world's view of the grape as it stood in Spain. 

While Grenache is widely known to us in the states, you could probably count on one hand the producers known to make transcendent examples; those are the very producers who Daniel and Fernando drank for inspiration, for a guide to what they wanted. Beyond that, they focused on other wines from France and Italy that showcased their origins with impeccable class, hoping to unlock that thought of "terroir" in their homeland. 

In the high-altitude, thin-soiled, old-vine plots the duo have staked their name on, the air is cooler, and the sandy, granite-based soils provide a freshness to the wines unseen in examples from vineyards in the valleys beneath. There is density, sure, and great complexity, but the airy essence of the final juice heightens all of its other facets, allowing us to see Garnacha as it was intended to be seen, smelled and drunk. 

Meet the Producer

Comando G

Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, two friends and vignerons are reimagining what it means to produce Spanish Garnacha, sourcing from old-vine, high-altitude vineyards in the Sierra de Gredos mountains. Their bottlings have quickly become highly collectible as their examples of Garnacha are perhaps the most pure this side of Chateau Rayas.

Just an hour from the capital city of Madrid, in the foothills of the rugged Sierra de Gredos mountain range, two friends and vignerons are reimagining what it means to produce Spanish Garnacha. Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, both from respected winemaking families, combined forces and began seeking out vineyards in the remote, barely accessible sites of the Gredos mountain range. The outcome: Grenaches with beautiful fruit concentration, rich texture, and balance of alcohol and acidity. At their best, these wines can evoke comparisons with the best Grenaches of Southern Rhone (dare I say, Rayas?) and bring out the perfect combination of fruit, spice, savory, earthy, and mineral quality for incredible depth.

Daniel was born into a winemaking family but had higher aspirations, literally and figuratively: he and his school friend Fernando sought out some of the most extreme vineyards in the Sierra de Gredos mountain ranges, old, wrought vines that could showcase the true potential of Garnacha and change the world's view of the grape as it stood in Spain. 

While Grenache is widely known to us in the states, you could probably count on one hand the producers known to make transcendent examples; those are the very producers who Daniel and Fernando drank for inspiration, for a guide to what they wanted. Beyond that, they focused on other wines from France and Italy that showcased their origins with impeccable class, hoping to unlock that thought of "terroir" in their homeland. 

In the high-altitude, thin-soiled, old-vine plots the duo have staked their name on, the air is cooler, and the sandy, granite-based soils provide a freshness to the wines unseen in examples from vineyards in the valleys beneath. There is density, sure, and great complexity, but the airy essence of the final juice heightens all of its other facets, allowing us to see Garnacha as it was intended to be seen, smelled and drunk. 

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

There is a change in the 2022 La Bruja. It is no longer a village wine from Rozas de Puerto Real. In 2022, it is a regional wine, and in 2023, it also will be a regional wine but from Ávila, from the Cebreros appellation, as they are focusing their work there. It's a juicy and aromatic Garnacha, very much in the Comando G style, with good ripeness, 14% alcohol and more in the style of the 2020. It has a medium-bodied palate and a sapid finish with contained ripeness and fine granite granularity. They macerated less to adapt to the vintage, and it partly fermented with less skins. It's a more approachable La Bruja, expressive, open and more fruit-driven, more in a Morgon style. 56,487 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023.

Vinous

Vinous

93

The 2022 La Bruja de Rozas is 100% Garnacha from Tiétar in the Sierra de Gredos. It was fermented with 100% whole cluster and harvested before the rains came that year. The 2022 opens with red fruit, gentle cherry, pomegranate, cotton candy, mint, herbs and rosehip. The palate is smooth and glycerol-textured with a light tannic grip. This is a modern style with delicate tension.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

There is a change in the 2022 La Bruja. It is no longer a village wine from Rozas de Puerto Real. In 2022, it is a regional wine, and in 2023, it also will be a regional wine but from Ávila, from the Cebreros appellation, as they are focusing their work there. It's a juicy and aromatic Garnacha, very much in the Comando G style, with good ripeness, 14% alcohol and more in the style of the 2020. It has a medium-bodied palate and a sapid finish with contained ripeness and fine granite granularity. They macerated less to adapt to the vintage, and it partly fermented with less skins. It's a more approachable La Bruja, expressive, open and more fruit-driven, more in a Morgon style. 56,487 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023.

Vinous

Vinous

93

The 2022 La Bruja de Rozas is 100% Garnacha from Tiétar in the Sierra de Gredos. It was fermented with 100% whole cluster and harvested before the rains came that year. The 2022 opens with red fruit, gentle cherry, pomegranate, cotton candy, mint, herbs and rosehip. The palate is smooth and glycerol-textured with a light tannic grip. This is a modern style with delicate tension.