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2021 Keller, Niersteiner Hipping Riesling GG, Rheinhessen

Vinous

97

CellarTracker

98
Regular price $425
/

2021 Keller, Niersteiner Hipping Riesling GG, Rheinhessen

Vinous

97

CellarTracker

98
Regular price $425
/
0 In Stock

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Vinous

Vinous

97

Rowan, iris, basil, mint, apple and white peach combine for an irresistibly enticing aromatic display, high-toned and penetrating as if from a distillate. The inner-mouth impression is glossy, liqueur-like in its sense of herbal, floral and fruit concentration, with coriander seed and orange rind contributing to a gin-like impression. The finish projects an almost electric vibrancy as well as a smoky aura to accompany its reverberating reprise of the flavors that went before. This vividly illustrates Keller’s ideal of a dry Riesling whose remarkable sheer intensity and “inner density” is nevertheless unincumbered by weight – quite the contrary – and entirely consistent with a projection of nuanced complexity. As it takes on air, the wine becomes that much more expressive, suggesting the thrills that await with further bottle age. (Though I certainly couldn’t reconcile its irresistibility today with a “drinking window” that doesn’t begin for years. It’s only circumstances extrinsic to the wine itself – like the effort you will have gone to if you manage to secure even one bottle! – that will no doubt leave you determined to cellar it.)

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

97

Rowan, iris, basil, mint, apple and white peach combine for an irresistibly enticing aromatic display, high-toned and penetrating as if from a distillate. The inner-mouth impression is glossy, liqueur-like in its sense of herbal, floral and fruit concentration, with coriander seed and orange rind contributing to a gin-like impression. The finish projects an almost electric vibrancy as well as a smoky aura to accompany its reverberating reprise of the flavors that went before. This vividly illustrates Keller’s ideal of a dry Riesling whose remarkable sheer intensity and “inner density” is nevertheless unincumbered by weight – quite the contrary – and entirely consistent with a projection of nuanced complexity. As it takes on air, the wine becomes that much more expressive, suggesting the thrills that await with further bottle age. (Though I certainly couldn’t reconcile its irresistibility today with a “drinking window” that doesn’t begin for years. It’s only circumstances extrinsic to the wine itself – like the effort you will have gone to if you manage to secure even one bottle! – that will no doubt leave you determined to cellar it.)