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2021 Keller, G-Max, Rheinhessen
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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

97

The 2021 Riesling G-Max is another highlight of the history of this mysterious wine. Cool, citrusy, taut and fresh on the nose, with rocky notes and a concentrated but elegant Riesling and yellow stone fruit aroma, this is a juicy, zesty and taut dry Riesling form a coolish and rainier vegetation period. The wine reveals a concentrated core and well-integrated mineral acidity. The 2021 is slender, very fine and enormously animating G-Max that I tasted blind as wine number 21 of the G-Max vertical at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Vinous

Vinous

97

With basil, gentian, juniper berry, coriander seed, white peach and lime, this is another Keller Riesling of its vintage whose ravishing aromatic display is distillate-like in its forcefulness and high-toned aura. The feel is flatteringly glossy, and the inner-mouth impression of implosive density as well as underlying stoniness prove entirely compatible with a sense of buoyancy and refreshingly bright, sheer juiciness. The mouth-shaking finish displays striking transparency to a kaleidoscopic array of herbal, floral, fruity and mineral elements. (As with the Hipping Grosses Gewächs in this collection, I feel it necessary to point out why I don’t quantify a “drinking window” that begins in some as yet far-off year. If you could just abstract from the near-impossibility of securing for yourself a single bottle of this wine, then you would feel no compunction after pulling the cork today, as the experience would be enormously gratifying and exciting.)

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

97

The 2021 Riesling G-Max is another highlight of the history of this mysterious wine. Cool, citrusy, taut and fresh on the nose, with rocky notes and a concentrated but elegant Riesling and yellow stone fruit aroma, this is a juicy, zesty and taut dry Riesling form a coolish and rainier vegetation period. The wine reveals a concentrated core and well-integrated mineral acidity. The 2021 is slender, very fine and enormously animating G-Max that I tasted blind as wine number 21 of the G-Max vertical at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Vinous

Vinous

97

With basil, gentian, juniper berry, coriander seed, white peach and lime, this is another Keller Riesling of its vintage whose ravishing aromatic display is distillate-like in its forcefulness and high-toned aura. The feel is flatteringly glossy, and the inner-mouth impression of implosive density as well as underlying stoniness prove entirely compatible with a sense of buoyancy and refreshingly bright, sheer juiciness. The mouth-shaking finish displays striking transparency to a kaleidoscopic array of herbal, floral, fruity and mineral elements. (As with the Hipping Grosses Gewächs in this collection, I feel it necessary to point out why I don’t quantify a “drinking window” that begins in some as yet far-off year. If you could just abstract from the near-impossibility of securing for yourself a single bottle of this wine, then you would feel no compunction after pulling the cork today, as the experience would be enormously gratifying and exciting.)