No power, not a drop of running water. He speaks of this “fountain” - a word that rolls off the tongue of a Senegalese-born Champenois more musically than anyone before - in the town of Hautvillers where they would drag their canisters to fill before the trudge home. It is in this same home, recently outfitted with the necessary modern amenities that we found Pierre-Gabriel Diarra, the man behind Champagne Insu, a lion in his den. Diarra, his surname, translates to just that in Bambara.
Pierre-Gabriel grew up with the stories of his grandmother, as his family tended a plot of vines in Hautvillers Berceau du Champagne where Dom Perignon created what we now recognize as Champagne (in the Marne department of Champagne), always surrounded by wine. Everything was kept gloriously simple, and as he grew up and entered the world of Tech, Pierre-Gabriel was drawn back to the simplicity that had molded his worldview. In 2021, his first chance to craft his own wines provided too much of a calling, and Champagne Insu was born.
“Insu” in itself, is an oxymoronically knowing term to name one’s label - it infers the lack of knowledge, but it is in the lack of knowing that the great become curious. So many of the tales from his childhood that Pierre-Gabriel regaled us with revolved around the simplistic. With a mind to protecting that, every part of his operation was performed by hand, his base of operations that same house of his grandfather.
Along wIth that curiosity came the need to seek advice; in the form of new friends Alexandre Lamblot and Gaspard Brochet, Diarra found guidance and acceptance. Another friend he latched onto came in the form of Aurelien Lurquin, where Pierre-Gabriel has pressed his wines for the last few vintages, alongside someone who he considers a mentor. Similar to Lurquin, Diarra admits, “My wines are powerful; I have no sales strategy: I want to craft the best wines that nature allows me to. Much like Lurquin, as well, Diarra makes wines for his own palate. “I am making wine, not Champagne. It is not my job to make ‘fresh’; everyone makes ‘fresh’. It is more important to be authentic, rather than mainstream."
From 6 parcels in Hautvillers, Pierre-Gabriel has thus far - with the release of the 2021s - produced six different cuvees. “I think a bit like Burgundy,” he says, “In terms of my choice.” This is evident in his method to date in producing wines of one varietal, one vintage, from one plot. In the cellars, Diarra is very mindful of reducing manipulation; each wine is allowed to develop slowly over a five year elevage. “I do not make wine philosophically," he explains, “There is no batonnage unless necessary, no pump…I prefer to have time for my wines." All elevage is performed in barrel - three he referred to as “new”, but are a minimum of 2-3 years of age, so new to him - and some are extended into the second winter before bottling. The first two years in bottle are done under caps, and they will spend a third year under cork after disgorgement. The 2021 vintage - his first commercial release - was disgorged in March 2024.
The Diarra - the Lion - waiting in his den, protecting his cubs - his bottles - until they are ready to greet the world on their own. 2026 is that year, and they are not plentiful, but they are ready, powerful and hungry.
VITICULTURE & VINIFICATION
When he brought back part of his family’s land from long-term lease, the first task was to convert the farming from conventional to fully organic. The vineyards lie rather smack-dab right in the middle of Hautvillers, a stone’s heave away from the winery, which itself is within a sprint of the famous statue of Dom Perignon. Hautvillers is positioned north of its more famous neighbor, Cumieres, and the former has not been famous for its village appearing on the label of Champagne bottles despite its 93% (Premier Cru) rating on the Echelle des Crus. Said Peter Liem in his book, Champagne, “While I have samples still wines from the village, I have never seen or tasted a pure Hautvillers Champagne.” Curiosity beckons.
2021, Insu’s first commercial release, was a very cold year in the region, providing smaller grapes, small quantities and intense flavors. Pierre-Gabriel has three hectares from which he can craft wines at this time: one hectare of Chardonnay, two of Pinot Noir and about 32 ares of Meunier. Past purchasers include Billecart-Salmon and Champagne Brice (Bouzy).
All wines are fermented in barrel on their lees, after pressing which is done at low pressure at Aurelien Lurquin’s winery. While there is a tiny cellar in the old house, Pierre-Gabriel is rebuilding the cellar to allow more space. Barrels range from 228 to 350, 400 and 500 liters in size, and Diarra will use amphora, as well. The aim is for low use of sulfur, with only a small amount before fermentation. There is no free sulfur in the final wines, with only 10-16 grams per liter in total. “I won’t say no sulfur and risk losing my wine - more powerful wines gives more opportunity for bacteria.”
With the first couple releases, Pierre-Gabriel will craft a total of six- to eight-thousand bottles; he has begun holding back 400 magnums of his wines, as well - 200 to be released after five years, and the second 200 after ten years.
What is most clear is that this is a thoughtful man whose aim is to craft wines he can be proud of, very much to his taste. “My job,” he says, “Is not to be a professor of winemaking. My job is to be able to adapt year after year, with what nature has given.” From the world of simplicity, into the world of technology, one world called stronger than the other. We’re all better for it, as is the Lion.
