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Donnhoff

2020 Donnhoff, Roxheimer Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling GG, Nahe

Germany Riesling Nahe 750ML

Wine Advocate

94
/
2020 Donnhoff, Roxheimer Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling GG, Nahe
Donnhoff

2020 Donnhoff, Roxheimer Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling GG, Nahe

Germany Riesling Nahe 750ML

Wine Advocate

94
/

Another fantastic name - "Path to Hell" - is colored by both the red slate within the vineyard as well as the incredibly steep slope. The slate generates both reflective warmth but also a distinct spice in the wines. With such slope, the berries are tiny and concentrated, creating something akin to the Frühlingsplätzchen of Schafer-Frohlich but with a touch more body. 

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Helmut and now Cornelius Dönnhoff are not your classic, Dijon-trained, by-the-book winemakers; instead, they're incredibly intuitive, with the ability and assuredness to pivot when needed. Wine needs longer in tank? Do it. These grapes taste as though they would make a phenomenal dry wine? Ausgezeichnet. Blessed with a wealth of experience in learning on the job, as well as decades with their old vines in several magnificent Grand Crus, Dönnhoff is unmistakably one of the very best labels in Europe, annually.

Donnhoff

With family roots in Oberhäusen an der Nahe dating back some two and a half centuries, Dönnhoff is cemented as a true legend of the region. Yet the family, today with Cornelius at the helm of the estate, is entirely humble and committed to their craft. Having amassed about 25 hectares, their winery is large enough to allow Cornelius both time and space to make his wines how he prefers - also to hold back plenty of wine until he feels it is perfectly ready to drink. 

In the vineyards, yields are naturally reduced by virtue of steep vineyards that produce tiny berries. With well-positioned sites that are not generally subject to mildew or rot (aside from botrytis in some), hang-time on the vines is prolonged and awaits the perfect moment of ripeness for each bottling. With the cool temperatures, the vines are trained very low to the ground to take advantage of the dark soils' natural reflective heat. There is no dogma dictating which vineyard will be made dry or off-dry, rather it is following the deeply-instilled intuition from decades of experience. 

In the winery, grapes are pressed immediately to retain freshness. Fermentations will happen in large oak or stainless casks (as determined from the taste by Cornelius), and all fermentations are allowed to commence and complete naturally. 

It should be noted that in 2024, the Dönnhoff vineyards were pummeled by frost, creating a loss of more than 90%. To illustrate the family's importance to the region, neighbors and friends (Witmann, Bürklin-Wolf) graciously offered parts of their vineyards to Cornelius for the vintage. As if we couldn't already love them enough. 

Meet the Producer

Donnhoff

Helmut and now Cornelius Dönnhoff are not your classic, Dijon-trained, by-the-book winemakers; instead, they're incredibly intuitive, with the ability and assuredness to pivot when needed. Wine needs longer in tank? Do it. These grapes taste as though they would make a phenomenal dry wine? Ausgezeichnet. Blessed with a wealth of experience in learning on the job, as well as decades with their old vines in several magnificent Grand Crus, Dönnhoff is unmistakably one of the very best labels in Europe, annually.

With family roots in Oberhäusen an der Nahe dating back some two and a half centuries, Dönnhoff is cemented as a true legend of the region. Yet the family, today with Cornelius at the helm of the estate, is entirely humble and committed to their craft. Having amassed about 25 hectares, their winery is large enough to allow Cornelius both time and space to make his wines how he prefers - also to hold back plenty of wine until he feels it is perfectly ready to drink. 

In the vineyards, yields are naturally reduced by virtue of steep vineyards that produce tiny berries. With well-positioned sites that are not generally subject to mildew or rot (aside from botrytis in some), hang-time on the vines is prolonged and awaits the perfect moment of ripeness for each bottling. With the cool temperatures, the vines are trained very low to the ground to take advantage of the dark soils' natural reflective heat. There is no dogma dictating which vineyard will be made dry or off-dry, rather it is following the deeply-instilled intuition from decades of experience. 

In the winery, grapes are pressed immediately to retain freshness. Fermentations will happen in large oak or stainless casks (as determined from the taste by Cornelius), and all fermentations are allowed to commence and complete naturally. 

It should be noted that in 2024, the Dönnhoff vineyards were pummeled by frost, creating a loss of more than 90%. To illustrate the family's importance to the region, neighbors and friends (Witmann, Bürklin-Wolf) graciously offered parts of their vineyards to Cornelius for the vintage. As if we couldn't already love them enough. 

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

From 40+-year-old vines on weathered sandstone soils, the 2020 Höllenpfad Im Mühlenberg GG opens with a clear, fresh and elegant bouquet of ripe, bright fruits. Full-bodied, intense and mineral on the palate, this is a pure fresh, straight and fruity yet also complex and sustainable Riesling with a long and tensioned, clear and polishing finish with lingering salinity. The 2020 has a lot of expression but is still youthful and will gain complexity, finesse and elegance as it ages in the bottle. 13% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in July and again six weeks later in Wiesbaden in August 2021.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

From 40+-year-old vines on weathered sandstone soils, the 2020 Höllenpfad Im Mühlenberg GG opens with a clear, fresh and elegant bouquet of ripe, bright fruits. Full-bodied, intense and mineral on the palate, this is a pure fresh, straight and fruity yet also complex and sustainable Riesling with a long and tensioned, clear and polishing finish with lingering salinity. The 2020 has a lot of expression but is still youthful and will gain complexity, finesse and elegance as it ages in the bottle. 13% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in July and again six weeks later in Wiesbaden in August 2021.