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2019 Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo

Sourced from four crus: San Lorenzo (0.25ha), Rue (0.5 ha), Canubbi (1.0ha) - in the commune of Barolo - and Rocche di Annunziata (1.2ha) from the commune of La Morra. Co-fermented, never separated, in concrete tanks with submerged-cap maceration. Aged in 25-50hL Slavonian Botti for 30 months.

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Where to begin? Even for many of us reared in fancy French restaurants, one gorgeously classic Italian label always seemed to resurface again and again, striking in its simplicity but unrivaled elegance - and that's just the actual exterior label. What lies inside of a Bartolo Mascarello bottle is even greater to behold: giving and supple enough to enjoy shortly after release, yet undeniably structured and classy to deserve several decades in the cellar.

Bartolo Mascarello

Still labeled as "Bartolo", the famous Cantina Mascarello is today run by the inimitable Maria Teresa Mascarello, Bartolo's daughter who has continually raised both the profile and quality of the wines after her father's passing.

Bartolo's grandfather had helmed what was known as the Barolo Co-Oprative Winery, and after its closure and the following World War I, his son Giulio decided to bottle his own wines - an extreme rarity for any wine region at that point. Bartolo took the helm and worked alongside his father from 1960-1981 when Giulio passed away. Bartolo's impact went far beyond that of merely creating indescribably delicious and timeless wines, rebelling against the movement toward new-wave winemaking (as well as the corrupt leadership of Silvio Berlusconi). His hand-drawn "No Barrique, No Berlusconi" labels became a special collectible for those in the know, as they would be randomly slipped into containers on release.

Maria Teresa's reign began in 2005 following Bartolo's passing, and she has continued the tradition that truly is unrivaled. While she crafts delicious "lunch wines" like the Freisa, Dolcetto and Barbera to drink early in their lives (or age!), the true treat is the Barolo - and it is "the" - always a blend from their 5 hectares of vineyards in Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche di Annunziata. The occasional Riserva is produced, but since the late 70s there have been no vineyard-designated cuvees.

Winemaking is highly traditional: all vineyards are co-fermented in large concrete tanks with native yeasts. Through the fermentation and for 30-50 days thereafter, a traditional submerged-cap maceration is performed, followed by pressing with a traditional basket press. The wines will then age in Slavonian Botti (large casks, 25-50hL) for about 30 months, bottled in the July 3 years after the harvest.

Meet the Producer

Bartolo Mascarello

Where to begin? Even for many of us reared in fancy French restaurants, one gorgeously classic Italian label always seemed to resurface again and again, striking in its simplicity but unrivaled elegance - and that's just the actual exterior label. What lies inside of a Bartolo Mascarello bottle is even greater to behold: giving and supple enough to enjoy shortly after release, yet undeniably structured and classy to deserve several decades in the cellar.

Still labeled as "Bartolo", the famous Cantina Mascarello is today run by the inimitable Maria Teresa Mascarello, Bartolo's daughter who has continually raised both the profile and quality of the wines after her father's passing.

Bartolo's grandfather had helmed what was known as the Barolo Co-Oprative Winery, and after its closure and the following World War I, his son Giulio decided to bottle his own wines - an extreme rarity for any wine region at that point. Bartolo took the helm and worked alongside his father from 1960-1981 when Giulio passed away. Bartolo's impact went far beyond that of merely creating indescribably delicious and timeless wines, rebelling against the movement toward new-wave winemaking (as well as the corrupt leadership of Silvio Berlusconi). His hand-drawn "No Barrique, No Berlusconi" labels became a special collectible for those in the know, as they would be randomly slipped into containers on release.

Maria Teresa's reign began in 2005 following Bartolo's passing, and she has continued the tradition that truly is unrivaled. While she crafts delicious "lunch wines" like the Freisa, Dolcetto and Barbera to drink early in their lives (or age!), the true treat is the Barolo - and it is "the" - always a blend from their 5 hectares of vineyards in Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche di Annunziata. The occasional Riserva is produced, but since the late 70s there have been no vineyard-designated cuvees.

Winemaking is highly traditional: all vineyards are co-fermented in large concrete tanks with native yeasts. Through the fermentation and for 30-50 days thereafter, a traditional submerged-cap maceration is performed, followed by pressing with a traditional basket press. The wines will then age in Slavonian Botti (large casks, 25-50hL) for about 30 months, bottled in the July 3 years after the harvest.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

98

Coming to market this fall, the Bartolo Mascarello 2019 Barolo represents a classic vintage in between two challenging growing seasons. Both 2018 and 2020 were hotter than 2019, resulting in higher alcohol levels. With fruit harvested on October 8th and 9th, this expression from 2019 shows extra freshness and a more streamlined style compared to the texturally generous 2020 or the softer and more open-knit 2018. Extraction and structure came easily in 2019, and delicate pump-overs sufficed. Maria Teresa Mascarello opted against submerged cap fermentations in 2022, 2019, 2017 and 2013. It was performed in 2016, 2014 and 2010, however. The fruit represents a blend of Monrobiolo in Bussia (a site with a lease that ends in 2025), Rue and Cannubi in Barolo and Rocche dell’Annunziata in La Morra. San Lorenzo will return to the blend in 2020. This bottle promises a decisive, vertical delivery of fruit (lots of "skeleton and bones") with a pretty moment of crunch, elegant acidic freshness and tannic structure. If you are nostalgic for a tight, acidity-driven Barolo that is good for long cellar aging, the 2019 is for you.

Vinous

Vinous

96

The 2019 Barolo is a potent, layered wine, within the super-classic style that is the house signature. Dark cherry, plum, spice, leather, licorice and menthol add to an impression of brooding intensity. There's real weight and substance here that needs time to emerge. Dried herbs, sage, mint, tobacco and cedar linger on the vibrant, tense finish.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

98

Coming to market this fall, the Bartolo Mascarello 2019 Barolo represents a classic vintage in between two challenging growing seasons. Both 2018 and 2020 were hotter than 2019, resulting in higher alcohol levels. With fruit harvested on October 8th and 9th, this expression from 2019 shows extra freshness and a more streamlined style compared to the texturally generous 2020 or the softer and more open-knit 2018. Extraction and structure came easily in 2019, and delicate pump-overs sufficed. Maria Teresa Mascarello opted against submerged cap fermentations in 2022, 2019, 2017 and 2013. It was performed in 2016, 2014 and 2010, however. The fruit represents a blend of Monrobiolo in Bussia (a site with a lease that ends in 2025), Rue and Cannubi in Barolo and Rocche dell’Annunziata in La Morra. San Lorenzo will return to the blend in 2020. This bottle promises a decisive, vertical delivery of fruit (lots of "skeleton and bones") with a pretty moment of crunch, elegant acidic freshness and tannic structure. If you are nostalgic for a tight, acidity-driven Barolo that is good for long cellar aging, the 2019 is for you.

Vinous

Vinous

96

The 2019 Barolo is a potent, layered wine, within the super-classic style that is the house signature. Dark cherry, plum, spice, leather, licorice and menthol add to an impression of brooding intensity. There's real weight and substance here that needs time to emerge. Dried herbs, sage, mint, tobacco and cedar linger on the vibrant, tense finish.