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The Wines of Keller

2018 Keller, Von Der Fels Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 750ML

Vinous

93

CellarTracker

91
/
The Wines of Keller

2018 Keller, Von Der Fels Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 750ML

Vinous

93

CellarTracker

91
/
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Vinous

Vinous

93

In keeping with Keller’s conviction that in 2018 success and exhibition of terroir character were strongly correlated with vine age, this year’s “Von der Fels” is based strictly on old vines in the estate’s Grosses Gewächs vineyards, with the cuvée weighted heavily toward Kirchspiel. A penetratingly high-toned nose incorporates basil, mint and wintergreen, lemon and grapefruit zests, as well as oily and chalky notes, for an aromatic profile that makes me think “Scheurebe meets Chablis.” The polished palate features sappy, invigoratingly tangy and piquant citrus and herb presence, now including a bite of peppercorn and a tart edge of crab apple. The finish is mouth-shaking in its vibratory persistence as well as cooling, ultra-refreshing and mouthwateringly saline. At 12% alcohol, an admirable sense of lift complements this bottling’s infectious juiciness and remarkable sense of animation. I have to believe that when it comes to ageability, this will rival some of Keller’s Grosse Gewächse.

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

93

In keeping with Keller’s conviction that in 2018 success and exhibition of terroir character were strongly correlated with vine age, this year’s “Von der Fels” is based strictly on old vines in the estate’s Grosses Gewächs vineyards, with the cuvée weighted heavily toward Kirchspiel. A penetratingly high-toned nose incorporates basil, mint and wintergreen, lemon and grapefruit zests, as well as oily and chalky notes, for an aromatic profile that makes me think “Scheurebe meets Chablis.” The polished palate features sappy, invigoratingly tangy and piquant citrus and herb presence, now including a bite of peppercorn and a tart edge of crab apple. The finish is mouth-shaking in its vibratory persistence as well as cooling, ultra-refreshing and mouthwateringly saline. At 12% alcohol, an admirable sense of lift complements this bottling’s infectious juiciness and remarkable sense of animation. I have to believe that when it comes to ageability, this will rival some of Keller’s Grosse Gewächse.