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2018 Keller, G-Max, Rheinhessen
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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96

From a vintage with a very warm and extremely dry summer, Keller's 2018 Riesling G-Max is clear, very dense and slightly phenolic on the nose that quotes citrus notes and ripe, concentrated stone fruit aromas. Juicy and very dense or even massive in its firm structure but also provided with fine mineral acidity, the 2018 G-Max develops an enormously salty, long-lasting finish but remains an embryonic dry Riesling with the structure of a Clos-Ste-Hune from Trimbach and probably also its life expectancy. Tasted blind as wine number 17 of the Keller vertical, right after the 2016 vintage at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Vinous

Vinous

96

On the nose, a smoky, peaty, and far more overtly mineral impression is conveyed than from the corresponding Abtserde, without the latter’s anticipations of floral perfume. By way of fruit aromas, zesty lime and lemon, piquant huckleberry and prickly, pungent white currant dominate. But on the glossy palate, a succulent influx of ripe peach joins bright citrus and white currant, suffused by peat and crushed stone. Mustard and currant seeds seem to crunch, citrus zests to piquantly glow, and chalky, sooty mineral matter to almost indelibly coat the gums on an electrically invigorating, wake-the-dead finish.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96

From a vintage with a very warm and extremely dry summer, Keller's 2018 Riesling G-Max is clear, very dense and slightly phenolic on the nose that quotes citrus notes and ripe, concentrated stone fruit aromas. Juicy and very dense or even massive in its firm structure but also provided with fine mineral acidity, the 2018 G-Max develops an enormously salty, long-lasting finish but remains an embryonic dry Riesling with the structure of a Clos-Ste-Hune from Trimbach and probably also its life expectancy. Tasted blind as wine number 17 of the Keller vertical, right after the 2016 vintage at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Vinous

Vinous

96

On the nose, a smoky, peaty, and far more overtly mineral impression is conveyed than from the corresponding Abtserde, without the latter’s anticipations of floral perfume. By way of fruit aromas, zesty lime and lemon, piquant huckleberry and prickly, pungent white currant dominate. But on the glossy palate, a succulent influx of ripe peach joins bright citrus and white currant, suffused by peat and crushed stone. Mustard and currant seeds seem to crunch, citrus zests to piquantly glow, and chalky, sooty mineral matter to almost indelibly coat the gums on an electrically invigorating, wake-the-dead finish.