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2018 Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay, Ancestrale

Vinous

91-93

Burghound

91-93

CellarTracker

90
Regular price $130
/

2018 Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay, Ancestrale

Vinous

91-93

Burghound

91-93

CellarTracker

90
Regular price $130
/

From Sylvain's oldest vines in lieux-dits Clos du Roy, Clémengeot & Les Ouzeloy, all planted between 1930 and 1945. A sloped vineyard at about 290m altitude at its peak, with iron-rich soils atop limestone. 100% of the whole clusters are preserved, and the juice pressed gently into barrels, 50% of which are new. After indigenous yeast fermentations, the wines will age for at least 24 months in the same barrels.

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Sometime in history there may have been someone making Marsannay of equal fame and quality, but I've never heard of them. Sylvain grew up tagging along with his father to Jean Fournier's vineyards, and very much appreciated getting his hands dirty. As a young man, he was able to purchase a single hectare in Marsannay, and became known as a consultant through his experience with lab work right out of oenological school. Slowly growing his estate, Sylvain quietly became known as a wizard with the Aligote grape, though he's quite adept with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Domaine Sylvain Pataille

Marsannay was long known as the gateway to the Cote de Nuits, but beyond that was forever a source of wines that were defined as "approachable" or "easy-drinking", adjectives that are just fine; yet with Pataille, we find wines more befitting of words like "electic," "brilliant" or any other superlative that you favor. Above all, the quality of work in the vineyard is paramount, and the gorgeous textures and complexity his wines possess reward all the hard work. 

In the vineyards, yields are tiny and the vines tended with biodynamic methods. Vines are often incredibly old, dating bac to the early 1930s, and Sylvain will retain most, if not all of the whole clusters for his red wines. In the winery, very little is done dogmatically with the elevage; instead the focus is on long, slow extractions to maximize texture, finesse and delicate flavors, and very little sulfur is used throughout. Most fermentations occur in barrel before blending in tank, and the wines are moved incredibly gently to preserve the delicacy. They will age until they are ready to drink by Sylvain's estimation, not a minute too soon for all of us!

Meet the Producer

Domaine Sylvain Pataille

Sometime in history there may have been someone making Marsannay of equal fame and quality, but I've never heard of them. Sylvain grew up tagging along with his father to Jean Fournier's vineyards, and very much appreciated getting his hands dirty. As a young man, he was able to purchase a single hectare in Marsannay, and became known as a consultant through his experience with lab work right out of oenological school. Slowly growing his estate, Sylvain quietly became known as a wizard with the Aligote grape, though he's quite adept with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Marsannay was long known as the gateway to the Cote de Nuits, but beyond that was forever a source of wines that were defined as "approachable" or "easy-drinking", adjectives that are just fine; yet with Pataille, we find wines more befitting of words like "electic," "brilliant" or any other superlative that you favor. Above all, the quality of work in the vineyard is paramount, and the gorgeous textures and complexity his wines possess reward all the hard work. 

In the vineyards, yields are tiny and the vines tended with biodynamic methods. Vines are often incredibly old, dating bac to the early 1930s, and Sylvain will retain most, if not all of the whole clusters for his red wines. In the winery, very little is done dogmatically with the elevage; instead the focus is on long, slow extractions to maximize texture, finesse and delicate flavors, and very little sulfur is used throughout. Most fermentations occur in barrel before blending in tank, and the wines are moved incredibly gently to preserve the delicacy. They will age until they are ready to drink by Sylvain's estimation, not a minute too soon for all of us!


Vinous

Vinous

91-93

The 2018 Marsannay "L'Ancestrale," which had been racked a week earlier, contains 100% whole-bunch fruit. As I have come to expect from this cuvée, it has a really lovely bouquet, offering beautifully defined red plum and wild strawberry fruit and subtle sous-bois/autumn leaf notes in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Cohesive and quite fleshy relative to the prior vintage, with a welcome dash of white pepper on the prolonged finish. Superb.

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

91-93

The 2018 Marsannay "L'Ancestrale," which had been racked a week earlier, contains 100% whole-bunch fruit. As I have come to expect from this cuvée, it has a really lovely bouquet, offering beautifully defined red plum and wild strawberry fruit and subtle sous-bois/autumn leaf notes in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Cohesive and quite fleshy relative to the prior vintage, with a welcome dash of white pepper on the prolonged finish. Superb.