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2017 Julian Haart, Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

Regular price $125
/

2017 Julian Haart, Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

Regular price $125
/
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Julian Haart, that is - the prodigious German winemaker who somehow already has a decade of vintages under his belt after working beneath two behemoths: the living legends Egon Müller and Klaus-Peter Keller.

Julian Haart

Training in any profession is important. Just like we sommeliers and former hospitality pros were poked and prodded for "star hunting", or shipping around to different Michelin-starred restaurants in lieu of a longstanding career at one of them, the future rockstars of the wine world seem determined to seek out differing beliefs and methods to learn from while they hone their own eventual vinous vision. So it is that Julian Haart spent time with two luminaries of Germany in Egon Müller and KP Keller - producers of many of the most sought-after (and pricy!) wines in the world!

Julian's first vineyard purchase was in the Grand Cru Ohligsberg; he followed this with the purchase of a parcel in the 75+ year-old, terraced Goldtröpfchen ("droplets of gold"); Schubertslay, home to century-old, ungrafted vines came a year later, a whole one hectare of vines (that's like a midwesterner's front yard). In 2018, Haart graciously gifted Schubertslay to Klaus Peter Keller in return for access to Keller's Frauenberg vineyard. 

"Julian's red label bottlings are playful, fresh and graciously showcase the talents of this young winemaker," Doug continued. "Although these cuvees are not a part of the Prädikat system, they still represent the region beautifully."

Meet the Producer

Julian Haart

Julian Haart, that is - the prodigious German winemaker who somehow already has a decade of vintages under his belt after working beneath two behemoths: the living legends Egon Müller and Klaus-Peter Keller.

Training in any profession is important. Just like we sommeliers and former hospitality pros were poked and prodded for "star hunting", or shipping around to different Michelin-starred restaurants in lieu of a longstanding career at one of them, the future rockstars of the wine world seem determined to seek out differing beliefs and methods to learn from while they hone their own eventual vinous vision. So it is that Julian Haart spent time with two luminaries of Germany in Egon Müller and KP Keller - producers of many of the most sought-after (and pricy!) wines in the world!

Julian's first vineyard purchase was in the Grand Cru Ohligsberg; he followed this with the purchase of a parcel in the 75+ year-old, terraced Goldtröpfchen ("droplets of gold"); Schubertslay, home to century-old, ungrafted vines came a year later, a whole one hectare of vines (that's like a midwesterner's front yard). In 2018, Haart graciously gifted Schubertslay to Klaus Peter Keller in return for access to Keller's Frauenberg vineyard. 

"Julian's red label bottlings are playful, fresh and graciously showcase the talents of this young winemaker," Doug continued. "Although these cuvees are not a part of the Prädikat system, they still represent the region beautifully."


Vinous

Vinous

94

Haart served me this last from his quartet of Kabinetts, indicating that he thought it was the finest and exhibited the best integration of the vintage’s high acidity. The wine reflects so few berries on these ancient vines having been suitable for Kabinett that to express the corresponding yields in hectoliters per hectare seems like a cruel joke. Maybe they reached three or four. But what a wine! Meyer lemon, white peach and Rainier cherry are garlanded in honeysuckle on a seductive nose and an ultra-delicate, polished yet invigoratingly lemon-seed- and ginger-inflected palate. The vibratory, consummately refreshing finish is transparent to both inner-mouth floral perfume and underlying wet stone, as well as laced with saliva-stimulating mineral salts. This is at once (slightly!) more restrained and yet more harmoniously, ringingly and mouthwateringly persistent than its three Kabinett siblings.

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

94

Haart served me this last from his quartet of Kabinetts, indicating that he thought it was the finest and exhibited the best integration of the vintage’s high acidity. The wine reflects so few berries on these ancient vines having been suitable for Kabinett that to express the corresponding yields in hectoliters per hectare seems like a cruel joke. Maybe they reached three or four. But what a wine! Meyer lemon, white peach and Rainier cherry are garlanded in honeysuckle on a seductive nose and an ultra-delicate, polished yet invigoratingly lemon-seed- and ginger-inflected palate. The vibratory, consummately refreshing finish is transparent to both inner-mouth floral perfume and underlying wet stone, as well as laced with saliva-stimulating mineral salts. This is at once (slightly!) more restrained and yet more harmoniously, ringingly and mouthwateringly persistent than its three Kabinett siblings.