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2017 Eva Fricke, Seligmacher, Rheingau

Vinous

90

CellarTracker

93
Regular price $55
/

2017 Eva Fricke, Seligmacher, Rheingau

Vinous

90

CellarTracker

93
Regular price $55
/
0 In Stock

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Vinous

Vinous

90

Pip-inflected pear along with zesty grapefruit and lemon in the nose translate into a stimulatingly piquant, oily, yet satisfyingly juicy mid-palate performance. Like Fricke’s Silvaner from the same Einzellage, this bottling reflects very old vines whose morphology is utterly distinct. “This is also the site with the harshest microclimate,” she notes, “as it can get unbelievably hot during the day but is exposed to chilly winds that come down from the Taunus hills, so that as soon as the sun sets the temperature can rapidly drop eight or ten degrees [Centigrade = 14-18 degrees Fahrenheit].” That may help explain a certain astringency to the wine’s finishing phenolics that I was tempted to characterize as a throwback to Fricke Rieslings of six or eight years ago. This astringency slightly diminishes the degree of finishing juiciness. And a sense of crushed stone suffusion is also a factor in pulling this Riesling away from transparency and, despite its hint of sweetness, in the direction of austerity. All of those reservations having been noted – the sheer grip on exhibit here is formidable, and the wine should prove well worth following.

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

90

Pip-inflected pear along with zesty grapefruit and lemon in the nose translate into a stimulatingly piquant, oily, yet satisfyingly juicy mid-palate performance. Like Fricke’s Silvaner from the same Einzellage, this bottling reflects very old vines whose morphology is utterly distinct. “This is also the site with the harshest microclimate,” she notes, “as it can get unbelievably hot during the day but is exposed to chilly winds that come down from the Taunus hills, so that as soon as the sun sets the temperature can rapidly drop eight or ten degrees [Centigrade = 14-18 degrees Fahrenheit].” That may help explain a certain astringency to the wine’s finishing phenolics that I was tempted to characterize as a throwback to Fricke Rieslings of six or eight years ago. This astringency slightly diminishes the degree of finishing juiciness. And a sense of crushed stone suffusion is also a factor in pulling this Riesling away from transparency and, despite its hint of sweetness, in the direction of austerity. All of those reservations having been noted – the sheer grip on exhibit here is formidable, and the wine should prove well worth following.