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Donnhoff

2017 Donnhoff, Roxheimer Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling GG, Nahe 1.5L

Germany Riesling Nahe 1.5L

Vinous

92
/
2017 Donnhoff, Roxheimer Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling GG, Nahe 1.5L
Donnhoff

2017 Donnhoff, Roxheimer Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling GG, Nahe 1.5L

Germany Riesling Nahe 1.5L

Vinous

92
/

Another fantastic name - "Path to Hell" - is colored by both the red slate within the vineyard as well as the incredibly steep slope. The slate generates both reflective warmth but also a distinct spice in the wines. With such slope, the berries are tiny and concentrated, creating something akin to the Frühlingsplätzchen of Schafer-Frohlich but with a touch more body. 

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Helmut and now Cornelius Dönnhoff are not your classic, Dijon-trained, by-the-book winemakers; instead, they're incredibly intuitive, with the ability and assuredness to pivot when needed. Wine needs longer in tank? Do it. These grapes taste as though they would make a phenomenal dry wine? Ausgezeichnet. Blessed with a wealth of experience in learning on the job, as well as decades with their old vines in several magnificent Grand Crus, Dönnhoff is unmistakably one of the very best labels in Europe, annually.

Donnhoff

With family roots in Oberhäusen an der Nahe dating back some two and a half centuries, Dönnhoff is cemented as a true legend of the region. Yet the family, today with Cornelius at the helm of the estate, is entirely humble and committed to their craft. Having amassed about 25 hectares, their winery is large enough to allow Cornelius both time and space to make his wines how he prefers - also to hold back plenty of wine until he feels it is perfectly ready to drink. 

In the vineyards, yields are naturally reduced by virtue of steep vineyards that produce tiny berries. With well-positioned sites that are not generally subject to mildew or rot (aside from botrytis in some), hang-time on the vines is prolonged and awaits the perfect moment of ripeness for each bottling. With the cool temperatures, the vines are trained very low to the ground to take advantage of the dark soils' natural reflective heat. There is no dogma dictating which vineyard will be made dry or off-dry, rather it is following the deeply-instilled intuition from decades of experience. 

In the winery, grapes are pressed immediately to retain freshness. Fermentations will happen in large oak or stainless casks (as determined from the taste by Cornelius), and all fermentations are allowed to commence and complete naturally. 

It should be noted that in 2024, the Dönnhoff vineyards were pummeled by frost, creating a loss of more than 90%. To illustrate the family's importance to the region, neighbors and friends (Witmann, Bürklin-Wolf) graciously offered parts of their vineyards to Cornelius for the vintage. As if we couldn't already love them enough. 

Meet the Producer

Donnhoff

Helmut and now Cornelius Dönnhoff are not your classic, Dijon-trained, by-the-book winemakers; instead, they're incredibly intuitive, with the ability and assuredness to pivot when needed. Wine needs longer in tank? Do it. These grapes taste as though they would make a phenomenal dry wine? Ausgezeichnet. Blessed with a wealth of experience in learning on the job, as well as decades with their old vines in several magnificent Grand Crus, Dönnhoff is unmistakably one of the very best labels in Europe, annually.

With family roots in Oberhäusen an der Nahe dating back some two and a half centuries, Dönnhoff is cemented as a true legend of the region. Yet the family, today with Cornelius at the helm of the estate, is entirely humble and committed to their craft. Having amassed about 25 hectares, their winery is large enough to allow Cornelius both time and space to make his wines how he prefers - also to hold back plenty of wine until he feels it is perfectly ready to drink. 

In the vineyards, yields are naturally reduced by virtue of steep vineyards that produce tiny berries. With well-positioned sites that are not generally subject to mildew or rot (aside from botrytis in some), hang-time on the vines is prolonged and awaits the perfect moment of ripeness for each bottling. With the cool temperatures, the vines are trained very low to the ground to take advantage of the dark soils' natural reflective heat. There is no dogma dictating which vineyard will be made dry or off-dry, rather it is following the deeply-instilled intuition from decades of experience. 

In the winery, grapes are pressed immediately to retain freshness. Fermentations will happen in large oak or stainless casks (as determined from the taste by Cornelius), and all fermentations are allowed to commence and complete naturally. 

It should be noted that in 2024, the Dönnhoff vineyards were pummeled by frost, creating a loss of more than 90%. To illustrate the family's importance to the region, neighbors and friends (Witmann, Bürklin-Wolf) graciously offered parts of their vineyards to Cornelius for the vintage. As if we couldn't already love them enough. 

Vinous

Vinous

92

A traditionally important core of the Höllenpfad, owned entirely by Dönnhoffs and featuring forty year-old Riesling vines, has been registered under its cadaster name and promoted to VDP-“Grosse Lage” status so as to inform the one of two new Dönnhoff Grosse Gewächse from this vintage. The relatively light, sandy soil and windy exposition of this site not only ward-off botrytis, they also conduce to concentration and phenolic intensity borne of thick-skinned, subtly-desiccated berries. “I always thought this site had Grosses Gewächs potential,” says Dönnhoff, “but I told myself ‘you really need to make wine from this vineyard for ten years before you can conclude that you truly understand it. So here’s the trial run!” (For more historical background on Höllenpfad, consult my note on the Dönnhoff vintage 2014 Riesling from that site.) Given what I wrote about the forceful grip and pronounced phenolics of this year’s “regular” dry Höllenpfad, I confess to having approached this Grosses Gewächs with slight trepidation. But, there is in fact greater primary juiciness, clarity, focus as well as textural allure. Smoky black tea accents pip-inflected pear and zesty lemon in a nose and palate of impressive intensity – yet combined with an alluring silkiness of feel and an abundance of primary juiciness. A crunchy, earthy suggestion of turnip lends further interest. Generous juiciness and citric brightness serve to balance-out the palpable, incisive and sizzling impingement of fresh ginger, radish and white pepper that serve for finishing vibrancy and grip.

What the Critics are Saying

Vinous

Vinous

92

A traditionally important core of the Höllenpfad, owned entirely by Dönnhoffs and featuring forty year-old Riesling vines, has been registered under its cadaster name and promoted to VDP-“Grosse Lage” status so as to inform the one of two new Dönnhoff Grosse Gewächse from this vintage. The relatively light, sandy soil and windy exposition of this site not only ward-off botrytis, they also conduce to concentration and phenolic intensity borne of thick-skinned, subtly-desiccated berries. “I always thought this site had Grosses Gewächs potential,” says Dönnhoff, “but I told myself ‘you really need to make wine from this vineyard for ten years before you can conclude that you truly understand it. So here’s the trial run!” (For more historical background on Höllenpfad, consult my note on the Dönnhoff vintage 2014 Riesling from that site.) Given what I wrote about the forceful grip and pronounced phenolics of this year’s “regular” dry Höllenpfad, I confess to having approached this Grosses Gewächs with slight trepidation. But, there is in fact greater primary juiciness, clarity, focus as well as textural allure. Smoky black tea accents pip-inflected pear and zesty lemon in a nose and palate of impressive intensity – yet combined with an alluring silkiness of feel and an abundance of primary juiciness. A crunchy, earthy suggestion of turnip lends further interest. Generous juiciness and citric brightness serve to balance-out the palpable, incisive and sizzling impingement of fresh ginger, radish and white pepper that serve for finishing vibrancy and grip.