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2017 Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Chenevottes

Regular price $175
/
2017 Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Chenevottes

2017 Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Chenevottes

Regular price $175
/
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Routinely among the very finest bottles to emerge from Burgundy yearly, the Domaine Bernard Moreau is highly-collectible and of stunning quality. In recent years the ship was steered by brothers Alex and Benoit - the former minding the cellars and Benoit in the vineyard. Despite Benoit's exit in 2020, the entire line of wines - from Bourgogne to the Grand Crus - are world-class.

Bernard Moreau

Though there are roots dating back to the early 19th century, the Domaine's quality truly garnered acclaim about a decade after the ascendency of Bernard Moreau, who took over at the ripe age of 14. In the mid-90s, brothers Alex and Benoit became involved in the estate and further propelled the wines to new heights of quality and collectability. Since his brother's exit in 2020 to begin his own eponymous label, Alex Moreau has taken full reign of both the cellars and the vineyard .

The Domaine's holdings include vines dating back to 1939, with generally old vines on average that aid the deep, lush flavors of the wines both red and white. More famous for their white wines, the clay soils throughout their vineyards lend that trademark texture and depth of flavor. The wines will see about 10-20% new oak on average; the exceptions are with the Grand Crus, where often there will only be enough fruit for 1-2 barrels. The Grand Crus are products of long-term leases, rather than Domaine-owned land. The farming is consistent, seeking lower yields through careful pruning and selection of fruit. The reds are similarly managed, though without any filtration or fining, or even any racking during elevage. The reds have improved year after year into incredibly pure styles of Pinot Noir.

So what makes these wines so divine? Possessing truly the best plot of each vineyard site, the Moreau family has a keen eye for perfect ripeness that provides the sumptuous textures and structure that will aid aging. The Bourgogne tasted blind, even, reminds many of Premier Cru bottlings and is among the best value white Burgundies each vintage. Even when the fad was reduction and leaner styles, the Moreau wines preserved their tradition and shone through as one on the pinnacle of quality.

Meet the Producer

Bernard Moreau

Routinely among the very finest bottles to emerge from Burgundy yearly, the Domaine Bernard Moreau is highly-collectible and of stunning quality. In recent years the ship was steered by brothers Alex and Benoit - the former minding the cellars and Benoit in the vineyard. Despite Benoit's exit in 2020, the entire line of wines - from Bourgogne to the Grand Crus - are world-class.

Though there are roots dating back to the early 19th century, the Domaine's quality truly garnered acclaim about a decade after the ascendency of Bernard Moreau, who took over at the ripe age of 14. In the mid-90s, brothers Alex and Benoit became involved in the estate and further propelled the wines to new heights of quality and collectability. Since his brother's exit in 2020 to begin his own eponymous label, Alex Moreau has taken full reign of both the cellars and the vineyard .

The Domaine's holdings include vines dating back to 1939, with generally old vines on average that aid the deep, lush flavors of the wines both red and white. More famous for their white wines, the clay soils throughout their vineyards lend that trademark texture and depth of flavor. The wines will see about 10-20% new oak on average; the exceptions are with the Grand Crus, where often there will only be enough fruit for 1-2 barrels. The Grand Crus are products of long-term leases, rather than Domaine-owned land. The farming is consistent, seeking lower yields through careful pruning and selection of fruit. The reds are similarly managed, though without any filtration or fining, or even any racking during elevage. The reds have improved year after year into incredibly pure styles of Pinot Noir.

So what makes these wines so divine? Possessing truly the best plot of each vineyard site, the Moreau family has a keen eye for perfect ripeness that provides the sumptuous textures and structure that will aid aging. The Bourgogne tasted blind, even, reminds many of Premier Cru bottlings and is among the best value white Burgundies each vintage. Even when the fad was reduction and leaner styles, the Moreau wines preserved their tradition and shone through as one on the pinnacle of quality.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes offers up aromas of orange oil, white flowers, clear honey and fresh peach, followed by a medium to full-bodied, textural and enveloping wine, its generous attack segueing into a nicely defined, lively mid-palate, concluding with an elegantly honeyed finish. We discussed why it is that Chenevottes often produces some of Chassagne's more exotic wines, and Moreau observed that the domaine's vines in this parcel are old and always produce golden grapes.

Vinous

Vinous

90-93

(the yield here was 38 hectoliters per hectare, as the grapes lost a little juice in the August heat, according to Alexandre Moreau): Pear and white peach dominate the nose. Strong orchard and white stone fruit flavors are framed and energized by lemon-zest acidity and an element of saline minerality. The wine's white fruit flavors and mineral tension will need time to harmonize, but there's enough thickness of texture here to support at least mid-term aging. The spicy, long, rising finish saturates the palate with orchard fruits and lemon salt. The Moreaus routinely pick this vineyard early to avoid notes of surmaturité, according to Alexandre.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes offers up aromas of orange oil, white flowers, clear honey and fresh peach, followed by a medium to full-bodied, textural and enveloping wine, its generous attack segueing into a nicely defined, lively mid-palate, concluding with an elegantly honeyed finish. We discussed why it is that Chenevottes often produces some of Chassagne's more exotic wines, and Moreau observed that the domaine's vines in this parcel are old and always produce golden grapes.

Vinous

Vinous

90-93

(the yield here was 38 hectoliters per hectare, as the grapes lost a little juice in the August heat, according to Alexandre Moreau): Pear and white peach dominate the nose. Strong orchard and white stone fruit flavors are framed and energized by lemon-zest acidity and an element of saline minerality. The wine's white fruit flavors and mineral tension will need time to harmonize, but there's enough thickness of texture here to support at least mid-term aging. The spicy, long, rising finish saturates the palate with orchard fruits and lemon salt. The Moreaus routinely pick this vineyard early to avoid notes of surmaturité, according to Alexandre.