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Maison Pierre Overnoy

2015 Maison Pierre Overnoy, Poulsard, Arbois Pupillin

France Ploussard Jura Arbois Pupillin 750ML

Wine Advocate

94

CellarTracker

93
/
2015 Maison Pierre Overnoy, Poulsard, Arbois Pupillin
Maison Pierre Overnoy

2015 Maison Pierre Overnoy, Poulsard, Arbois Pupillin

France Ploussard Jura Arbois Pupillin 750ML

Wine Advocate

94

CellarTracker

93
/

Ploussard receives red wax; the grapes are hand-harvested and carefully de-stemmed prior to undergoing a semi-carbonic maceration - traditionally in foudre, though there have been experimentations with concrete eggs in recent years. Often part of the vintage will be held back for further aging, releasing part of the wine after 3-4 years of aging.

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We came to know the wines of Pierre Overnoy in some of the finest French restaurants - they were the bottles in the corner, gathering dust, but were yet somehow "off limits" per the head Sommelier. Even without researching them, they had already attained mythical status. Do a little bit of reading and you'll discover that Overnoy himself was one of the first to readily make what we call "natural wine" - he eschewed the use of sulfur most of all, and created wines that were bursting at the seams with character.

Maison Pierre Overnoy

Emmanuel & Anne Houillon run the Maison Pierre Overnoy estate after several years under Pierre's tutelage, and have only served to further improve on his legacy. We have long loved these wines, so elegant and yet simply presented - historically, all the labels are the same; you just identify the cuvée by the color of the wax! The winery routinely holds back releases until they are perfectly ready to drink.

Chardonnay is sourced from the lieu-dit Viandris, a 1.7 hectare parcel of 50+ year old vines. The white-waxed Chardonnay will be topped up throughout its long aging on the lees in foudre, generally about 4 years.

Yellow-waxed Savagnin Ouillé is direct-pressed and aged in foudre for about 10 years; time, with regular top-ups. The source is a tiny, 50-are marl-soiled plot called Parc. When you see the wine you'll know it, as it is bottled in the 500 mL size, its only indication that it is the true rare pearl of the Overnoy cellars, the most powerful and profound bottling. There will be another Savagnin in 750 mL bottles that will have been in foudre for 4 years' time, also with the yellow wax.

Ploussard receives red wax; the grapes are hand-harvested and carefully de-stemmed prior to undergoing a semi-carbonic maceration - traditionally in foudre, though there have been experimentations with concrete eggs in recent years. Often part of the vintage will be held back for further aging, releasing part of the wine after 3-4 years of aging.

There will be other rare bottlings including a "Cuvée Rosé" which is a fortified wine (with Marc) of equal parts Chardonnay and Savagnin; occasionally a Vin Jaune will occasionally be released.

Meet the Producer

Maison Pierre Overnoy

We came to know the wines of Pierre Overnoy in some of the finest French restaurants - they were the bottles in the corner, gathering dust, but were yet somehow "off limits" per the head Sommelier. Even without researching them, they had already attained mythical status. Do a little bit of reading and you'll discover that Overnoy himself was one of the first to readily make what we call "natural wine" - he eschewed the use of sulfur most of all, and created wines that were bursting at the seams with character.

Emmanuel & Anne Houillon run the Maison Pierre Overnoy estate after several years under Pierre's tutelage, and have only served to further improve on his legacy. We have long loved these wines, so elegant and yet simply presented - historically, all the labels are the same; you just identify the cuvée by the color of the wax! The winery routinely holds back releases until they are perfectly ready to drink.

Chardonnay is sourced from the lieu-dit Viandris, a 1.7 hectare parcel of 50+ year old vines. The white-waxed Chardonnay will be topped up throughout its long aging on the lees in foudre, generally about 4 years.

Yellow-waxed Savagnin Ouillé is direct-pressed and aged in foudre for about 10 years; time, with regular top-ups. The source is a tiny, 50-are marl-soiled plot called Parc. When you see the wine you'll know it, as it is bottled in the 500 mL size, its only indication that it is the true rare pearl of the Overnoy cellars, the most powerful and profound bottling. There will be another Savagnin in 750 mL bottles that will have been in foudre for 4 years' time, also with the yellow wax.

Ploussard receives red wax; the grapes are hand-harvested and carefully de-stemmed prior to undergoing a semi-carbonic maceration - traditionally in foudre, though there have been experimentations with concrete eggs in recent years. Often part of the vintage will be held back for further aging, releasing part of the wine after 3-4 years of aging.

There will be other rare bottlings including a "Cuvée Rosé" which is a fortified wine (with Marc) of equal parts Chardonnay and Savagnin; occasionally a Vin Jaune will occasionally be released.

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

I had the chance to tasted the latest red from Emmanuel Houillon, the 2015 Arbois Pupillin Poulsard, a cult wine by now. I really like the Overnoy/Houillon reds ten years after the vintage—when young, they sometimes feel shaky, closed and at times plain weird, as they change a lot and have their ups and downs. But I caught this wine on one of the "ups," and it felt surprisingly clean, with notes of forest floor and blood oranges. It's primary, tender and young, with freshness and an ethereal palate that incites you to keep drinking it. It's truly delicious, one of the best reds I've had from them, but I'm sure I'll like this more with some years in bottle. I later found the wine again while visiting the domaine, and I found that the wine had settled down quite a bit; or perhaps it was never very shaken, as it hadn't departed the winery. It had more focused aromas and a clearer note of the blood orange that provided even more freshness. Emmanuel explained that the old Poulsard had larger grapes and less color, and that's the one they like; but it is not even easy to decide when to harvest, because the color does not tell you if the grapes are ripe or not, because they never get dark. I could also preview the 2017, which will be a very short vintage of good quality but disastrous volumes. Only three months after the harvest and just de-vatted, the 2017 had some smoky character that characterizes the reds from here.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

I had the chance to tasted the latest red from Emmanuel Houillon, the 2015 Arbois Pupillin Poulsard, a cult wine by now. I really like the Overnoy/Houillon reds ten years after the vintage—when young, they sometimes feel shaky, closed and at times plain weird, as they change a lot and have their ups and downs. But I caught this wine on one of the "ups," and it felt surprisingly clean, with notes of forest floor and blood oranges. It's primary, tender and young, with freshness and an ethereal palate that incites you to keep drinking it. It's truly delicious, one of the best reds I've had from them, but I'm sure I'll like this more with some years in bottle. I later found the wine again while visiting the domaine, and I found that the wine had settled down quite a bit; or perhaps it was never very shaken, as it hadn't departed the winery. It had more focused aromas and a clearer note of the blood orange that provided even more freshness. Emmanuel explained that the old Poulsard had larger grapes and less color, and that's the one they like; but it is not even easy to decide when to harvest, because the color does not tell you if the grapes are ripe or not, because they never get dark. I could also preview the 2017, which will be a very short vintage of good quality but disastrous volumes. Only three months after the harvest and just de-vatted, the 2017 had some smoky character that characterizes the reds from here.