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M. et C. Lapierre

2013 M. et C. Lapierre, Morgon

France Gamay Beaujolais Morgon 750ML

Wine Advocate

90

Vinous

92
/
2013 M. et C. Lapierre, Morgon
M. et C. Lapierre

2013 M. et C. Lapierre, Morgon

France Gamay Beaujolais Morgon 750ML

Wine Advocate

90

Vinous

92
/
0 In Stock

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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

The 2013 Morgon is more reticent on the nose compared to the non-sulphite version, without the same detail. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, ripe tannins and pretty red cherry and candied orange peel note toward the finish. Mathieu was sporting two black eyes when I visited his winery at Domaine des Chenes. Was he a casualty of a turf war in Villie-Morgon? Unlikely. I later found out that he had defended a woman who was getting too much male attention on the street. Of course, this address is for many the spiritual home of natural winemaking since his father Marcel, inspired by Jules Chauvet-s rallying cry to return to the natural winemaking methods, duly applied them to his own vines. Having worked alongside Marcel since 2005, Mathieu is carrying the torch after the untimely passing of his father just after the 2010 harvest, ably assisted by his sisters Camille and Anne. As I stated in my introduction, discussing natural winemaking with Mathieu is a wholly refreshing exercise. There is none of the didacticism so often preached by Manichaean scribes, who don-t let a balanced argument get in the way of their -us and them- sermon. Instead, Mathieu is completely at ease producing his Morgon with both low sulfur and sulfur-free, so that customers have the option to purchase either (the latter sold exclusively through Kermit Lynch-s Berkeley shop.) And upon asking what he himself preferred, Mathieu replied that it depends on the vintage; sometimes the non-sulfured cuvees turn out better than the lightly sulfured ones, and in other years it might be the other way round. And to this end, Mathieu had kindly organized a mini-vertical of the two side-by-side so that I could make up my mind. The usual tenets are applied here. Of course, there is an organic approach in the vineyard populated by 60-year-old vines that clearly were healthier when we went out and I compared them with his neighbor-s row. The vat-room accommodates 22 stainless steel fermenters that can gaze up at a colorful mural of the sun and the moon painted on the ceiling by Mathieu-s friends. There is also a square wooden vertical basket press that is not for show - still working as efficiently as ever after all these years. (There is also an old cylindrical wooden press.) Here there is whole cluster natural fermentation at low temperature, aging on the fine lees in used barrels up to 12 years old and no filtration. Stylistically, Lapierre-s Morgon wines don't quite possess the depth of, say, Jean Foillard-s. These are more tensile expressions of terroir, bursting at the seams with freshness and tension, almost brittle in the mouth. Yet they react with aeration. Give these wines time to open in the glass (and I would not discourage decanting) and then the fruit begins to really shine. Mathieu said that the 2007 had not been an easy vintage. -We had to do a lot of work during the vinification to gain intensity,- he commented. -We had to keep getting the grapes to the top (of the vat) during carbonic maceration.-

Vinous

Vinous

92

(this is the non-sulfured version of this wine, which is designated by an N on the left side of the back label): Lurid ruby. Black raspberry, violet and smoky minerals on the highly fragrant nose and in the mouth. Juicy, focused and pure, with a hint of blood orange coming up slowly as the wine opens. This lively, focused wine finishes with excellent clarity and length, the supple tannins coming in late. The differences between these two versions of this wine are fairly slight right now but in my experience the no-sulfur bottling shows more brightness for the first two or three years after release while the sulfured rendition holds up somewhat better to cellaring. If cellaring this wine were a priority--and for me it is--I'd opt for the S bottling, and in fact I did.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

The 2013 Morgon is more reticent on the nose compared to the non-sulphite version, without the same detail. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, ripe tannins and pretty red cherry and candied orange peel note toward the finish. Mathieu was sporting two black eyes when I visited his winery at Domaine des Chenes. Was he a casualty of a turf war in Villie-Morgon? Unlikely. I later found out that he had defended a woman who was getting too much male attention on the street. Of course, this address is for many the spiritual home of natural winemaking since his father Marcel, inspired by Jules Chauvet-s rallying cry to return to the natural winemaking methods, duly applied them to his own vines. Having worked alongside Marcel since 2005, Mathieu is carrying the torch after the untimely passing of his father just after the 2010 harvest, ably assisted by his sisters Camille and Anne. As I stated in my introduction, discussing natural winemaking with Mathieu is a wholly refreshing exercise. There is none of the didacticism so often preached by Manichaean scribes, who don-t let a balanced argument get in the way of their -us and them- sermon. Instead, Mathieu is completely at ease producing his Morgon with both low sulfur and sulfur-free, so that customers have the option to purchase either (the latter sold exclusively through Kermit Lynch-s Berkeley shop.) And upon asking what he himself preferred, Mathieu replied that it depends on the vintage; sometimes the non-sulfured cuvees turn out better than the lightly sulfured ones, and in other years it might be the other way round. And to this end, Mathieu had kindly organized a mini-vertical of the two side-by-side so that I could make up my mind. The usual tenets are applied here. Of course, there is an organic approach in the vineyard populated by 60-year-old vines that clearly were healthier when we went out and I compared them with his neighbor-s row. The vat-room accommodates 22 stainless steel fermenters that can gaze up at a colorful mural of the sun and the moon painted on the ceiling by Mathieu-s friends. There is also a square wooden vertical basket press that is not for show - still working as efficiently as ever after all these years. (There is also an old cylindrical wooden press.) Here there is whole cluster natural fermentation at low temperature, aging on the fine lees in used barrels up to 12 years old and no filtration. Stylistically, Lapierre-s Morgon wines don't quite possess the depth of, say, Jean Foillard-s. These are more tensile expressions of terroir, bursting at the seams with freshness and tension, almost brittle in the mouth. Yet they react with aeration. Give these wines time to open in the glass (and I would not discourage decanting) and then the fruit begins to really shine. Mathieu said that the 2007 had not been an easy vintage. -We had to do a lot of work during the vinification to gain intensity,- he commented. -We had to keep getting the grapes to the top (of the vat) during carbonic maceration.-

Vinous

Vinous

92

(this is the non-sulfured version of this wine, which is designated by an N on the left side of the back label): Lurid ruby. Black raspberry, violet and smoky minerals on the highly fragrant nose and in the mouth. Juicy, focused and pure, with a hint of blood orange coming up slowly as the wine opens. This lively, focused wine finishes with excellent clarity and length, the supple tannins coming in late. The differences between these two versions of this wine are fairly slight right now but in my experience the no-sulfur bottling shows more brightness for the first two or three years after release while the sulfured rendition holds up somewhat better to cellaring. If cellaring this wine were a priority--and for me it is--I'd opt for the S bottling, and in fact I did.