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2012 Domaine Denis Mortet, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Regular price $450
/
2012 Domaine Denis Mortet, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

2012 Domaine Denis Mortet, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Regular price $450
/
0 In Stock

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The Denis Mortet name is well-known to any collector or sommelier as a beacon of incredible quality in Gevrey-Chambertin. One whose imprint was easily sensed in the depth, texture and complexity of his wines, Denis created wines that were as enjoyable in their youth as they were longlasting. Since his passing in 2006, his son Arnaud has assumed the considerable mantle with grace and aplomb, and carried on the family name to great effect.

Domaine Denis Mortet

Denis Mortet started his eponymous domaine in 1991 with half of his father's vineyards, having studied under his father Charles and eventually becoming the Domaine's winemaker in the mid-80s. Inspired by his mentors Henri Jayer and Lalou-Bize Leroy, Denis quickly became known for his wines of similarly lavish texture from varied Gevrey-Chambertin vineyards.

Starting with only 4.5 hectares inherited from Charles, Denis dedicated himself to incredible farming which allowed for such lush and vibrant fruit. As he garnered much acclaim for his work in the vineyards, he would often inherit vineyards from other vignerons who sought to see their parcels cared for in the same vein. By the time of his death in 2006, the Domaine had swelled to 11 hectares, including the legendary Chambertin.

Arnaud carried on his father's work, focusing primarily in the vineyard while reducing the amount of extraction as well as the amount of new oak the wines were aged in. The methods are painstaking, but have resulted in even more complexity - owing in part to greater inclusion of whole clusters, a sign of strong farming - and greater acclaim.

In 2016, Arnaud expanded the holdings further with a purchase of another small estate in Gevrey-Chambertin which he farms identically but bottles under his own name. An additional two Grand Crus join the already-impressive stable of wines.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Denis Mortet

The Denis Mortet name is well-known to any collector or sommelier as a beacon of incredible quality in Gevrey-Chambertin. One whose imprint was easily sensed in the depth, texture and complexity of his wines, Denis created wines that were as enjoyable in their youth as they were longlasting. Since his passing in 2006, his son Arnaud has assumed the considerable mantle with grace and aplomb, and carried on the family name to great effect.

Denis Mortet started his eponymous domaine in 1991 with half of his father's vineyards, having studied under his father Charles and eventually becoming the Domaine's winemaker in the mid-80s. Inspired by his mentors Henri Jayer and Lalou-Bize Leroy, Denis quickly became known for his wines of similarly lavish texture from varied Gevrey-Chambertin vineyards.

Starting with only 4.5 hectares inherited from Charles, Denis dedicated himself to incredible farming which allowed for such lush and vibrant fruit. As he garnered much acclaim for his work in the vineyards, he would often inherit vineyards from other vignerons who sought to see their parcels cared for in the same vein. By the time of his death in 2006, the Domaine had swelled to 11 hectares, including the legendary Chambertin.

Arnaud carried on his father's work, focusing primarily in the vineyard while reducing the amount of extraction as well as the amount of new oak the wines were aged in. The methods are painstaking, but have resulted in even more complexity - owing in part to greater inclusion of whole clusters, a sign of strong farming - and greater acclaim.

In 2016, Arnaud expanded the holdings further with a purchase of another small estate in Gevrey-Chambertin which he farms identically but bottles under his own name. An additional two Grand Crus join the already-impressive stable of wines.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94-96

The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru yielded just four barrels this year, one of them new. It has a powerful, almost ravishing bouquet with vibrant, feisty red berry fruit infused with orange rind and spices. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, superb mineralite and tension that leads to an unexpectedly refined, understated finish with plenty of poise and linearity. One of the best you will find this year. Things are certainly changing at this domaine. When Arnaud took over I felt that the level of new oak was excessive, superfluous to requirements given the fruit bestowed by his family’s prodigious holdings. And he was refreshingly candid about this when we sat down in his offices to taste through his 2012s, where he told me that he is now dialing down the new oak in order to express the terroir. That said, there is still more new wood here that say, Armand Rousseau just round the corner, but tasting through these 2012s I would say that the wood is better assimilated than previous vintage and yes, the terroir does shine through. “The harvest began on 23 September,” Arnaud explained. “It lasted for about 9 days in Gevrey and then finishing off with the Bourgogne Rouge. We had a lot of millerandage. Everything was de-stemmed this year. We left the wine on its lees in barrel and might sulfur in two or three months. We’ll also transfer the wine in to stainless steel to marry everything together. But the end result is that we are about 40% down on average.”

Vinous

Vinous

93

(totally destemmed): Healthy dark red. Highly complex aromas of black cherry, licorice, botanical herbs, mint, flowers and mulch, complemented by sexy oak tones. Large-scaled, plush and deep, showing a seamless texture and outstanding volume (the wine is 13.2% alcohol following light chaptalization) in the middle but tightening up somewhat on the back end, finishing with good medicinal reserve and terrific savory length. Arnaud Mortet feels that this is the best Clos Vougeot he has bottled to date.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94-96

The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru yielded just four barrels this year, one of them new. It has a powerful, almost ravishing bouquet with vibrant, feisty red berry fruit infused with orange rind and spices. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, superb mineralite and tension that leads to an unexpectedly refined, understated finish with plenty of poise and linearity. One of the best you will find this year. Things are certainly changing at this domaine. When Arnaud took over I felt that the level of new oak was excessive, superfluous to requirements given the fruit bestowed by his family’s prodigious holdings. And he was refreshingly candid about this when we sat down in his offices to taste through his 2012s, where he told me that he is now dialing down the new oak in order to express the terroir. That said, there is still more new wood here that say, Armand Rousseau just round the corner, but tasting through these 2012s I would say that the wood is better assimilated than previous vintage and yes, the terroir does shine through. “The harvest began on 23 September,” Arnaud explained. “It lasted for about 9 days in Gevrey and then finishing off with the Bourgogne Rouge. We had a lot of millerandage. Everything was de-stemmed this year. We left the wine on its lees in barrel and might sulfur in two or three months. We’ll also transfer the wine in to stainless steel to marry everything together. But the end result is that we are about 40% down on average.”

Vinous

Vinous

93

(totally destemmed): Healthy dark red. Highly complex aromas of black cherry, licorice, botanical herbs, mint, flowers and mulch, complemented by sexy oak tones. Large-scaled, plush and deep, showing a seamless texture and outstanding volume (the wine is 13.2% alcohol following light chaptalization) in the middle but tightening up somewhat on the back end, finishing with good medicinal reserve and terrific savory length. Arnaud Mortet feels that this is the best Clos Vougeot he has bottled to date.