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2011 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru, Preuses
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While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Vincent Dauvissat

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.

Meet the Producer

Vincent Dauvissat

While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

Iris perfume and saline-sweet savor of raw scallop rise from the glass of Dauvissat 2011 Chablis Preuses, whence they join with luscious fresh lime and white peach on a subtly creamy yet refreshing, buoyant palate. Hints of chalk and fresh ginger add to the stimulation of a prodigious finish. This beauty should be worth following through at least 2020. Vincent Dauvissat emphasizes the positive roll of rain in September, 2012: "it permitted fruit maturation to continue, and ameliorated acidity." The most vexing parts of the vintage, as he perceives it, were frost and mildew, and he has the low yields to show for the battle with them. Poor flowering, he acknowledges, had its positive sides in engendering loose, rot-resistant clusters and helping to insure that even in those vineyards not frosted, the crop was able to thoroughly ripen. Dauvissat was quick to point out that when it came to his two grand crus, 2011 represented another short crop, because those sites bloomed during a period of perturbing weather; whereas conditions turned favorable in the week that followed, in time for flowering in his premier cru and village-level sites. Harvest dates here were pretty typical: the first half of September in 2011, and the last week of September and first few days of October in 2012. Finished alcohols in 2012 range from 12.5%-13%; and a half a degree lower in 2011. Like me, Vincent Dauvissat thinks that many observers are misled by the youthfully generous and lightweight character of the 2011s into a false belief that they won't be worth cellaring. (That being noted, I hasten to add - chastised by prematurely oxidized bottles, including even a few from his hand - that my notion of felicitous aging involves a shorter temporal horizon than his.)

Vinous

Vinous

95

Finally, the 2011 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru from Vincent Dauvissat. It’s a cool customer on the nose, distant and enigmatic, gradually revealing sea spray and crustacean scents, plus a touch of petrichor. The palate is wonderfully poised and harmonious, and more malic than the older vintages at this Chablis dinner, revealing hints of popcorn and sea salt on the engaging finish. This clearly needs another couple of years in bottle.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

94

Iris perfume and saline-sweet savor of raw scallop rise from the glass of Dauvissat 2011 Chablis Preuses, whence they join with luscious fresh lime and white peach on a subtly creamy yet refreshing, buoyant palate. Hints of chalk and fresh ginger add to the stimulation of a prodigious finish. This beauty should be worth following through at least 2020. Vincent Dauvissat emphasizes the positive roll of rain in September, 2012: "it permitted fruit maturation to continue, and ameliorated acidity." The most vexing parts of the vintage, as he perceives it, were frost and mildew, and he has the low yields to show for the battle with them. Poor flowering, he acknowledges, had its positive sides in engendering loose, rot-resistant clusters and helping to insure that even in those vineyards not frosted, the crop was able to thoroughly ripen. Dauvissat was quick to point out that when it came to his two grand crus, 2011 represented another short crop, because those sites bloomed during a period of perturbing weather; whereas conditions turned favorable in the week that followed, in time for flowering in his premier cru and village-level sites. Harvest dates here were pretty typical: the first half of September in 2011, and the last week of September and first few days of October in 2012. Finished alcohols in 2012 range from 12.5%-13%; and a half a degree lower in 2011. Like me, Vincent Dauvissat thinks that many observers are misled by the youthfully generous and lightweight character of the 2011s into a false belief that they won't be worth cellaring. (That being noted, I hasten to add - chastised by prematurely oxidized bottles, including even a few from his hand - that my notion of felicitous aging involves a shorter temporal horizon than his.)

Vinous

Vinous

95

Finally, the 2011 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru from Vincent Dauvissat. It’s a cool customer on the nose, distant and enigmatic, gradually revealing sea spray and crustacean scents, plus a touch of petrichor. The palate is wonderfully poised and harmonious, and more malic than the older vintages at this Chablis dinner, revealing hints of popcorn and sea salt on the engaging finish. This clearly needs another couple of years in bottle.