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The Wines of Keller

2011 Keller, Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 3L

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 3L

Wine Advocate

92

Vinous

96

CellarTracker

93
/
2011 Keller, Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 3L
The Wines of Keller

2011 Keller, Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 3L

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 3L

Wine Advocate

92

Vinous

96

CellarTracker

93
/
1 - 3L Limit

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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

Pear, zesty lime and pineapple close to the core ally themselves to crystalline, alkaline and stony notes in Keller's 2011 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs, leading to a juicy palate impression and finish that positively shimmer. Coriander seed, grapefruit rind, peach kernel, nut oils and quinine add piquant pungency to this impressively persistent performance that should be worth following for at least a decade. This site tends to wear its extract on its sleeve, but fortunately that doesn't this year preclude succulence, lift or refreshment. I think of Kirchspiel as feline, whereas Hubacker is a rather large canine bounding into your lap. Cool nights from mid-summer on - but especially in October - played into and seemed to confirm Keller's strategy of depending on low temperatures to truly release the aromatic potential of Riesling grapes (though he is the first to admit that he hasn't a notion of why this is so). "It's critical that you wait for Riesling until you can get into that period" of chilly weather, he opines, "and this year there was no reason you couldn't wait; and then plenty of time to strategize picking. But," he adds, "you couldn't get there if you didn't leave large enough yields," because otherwise one's picking hand would be forced by potential alcohol. In this year, Keller was able to purchase from Franz Karl Schmitt his iconic, eponymous former estate's best parcels in Niersteiner Pettenthal and Hipping, sites with an illustrious reputation from bygone years that Keller has wasted no time in reviving and polishing. (It was inspiring to be able to walk these particular vineyards on the "Rotem Hang" with both of them late last summer and share in their obvious mutual delight at this historic real estate transaction.) Increased refinement, delicacy, and complexity continue to characterize the best of Keller's residually sweet wines, and it's clear that his range of "R" bottlings from top sites - approximately halbtrocken in specifications - is taken with increased seriousness and will expand, annually incorporating at least one such wine that (as is now also the case with Morstein, Abtserde and G-Max) won't be bottled before August or released before the following spring. Nor has Keller given up his intention - VDP ideology to the contrary notwithstanding - of rendering residually sweet Kabinett from his Nierstein crus; it's just that 2011 fruit was too ripe (and 2010 had been too scarce). Once again this year, despite devoting more time to tasting the wines of this estate than to those of almost any other, I still cannot pretend to have sampled Keller's entire 2011 vintage collection, the especially notable omissions being T.B.A.s from Hubacker and Kirchspiel. (Time has also conspired to keep me from reporting on Keller's 2009 Pinots, which I have as yet tasted only before they were assembled. Numerous details on Keller's sites, stylistic ideals, and labeling practices can be found in my issue 198 report. And, apropos labeling, Abtserde continues to have to appear in print as AbtsE-, even though for purposes of the Wine Advocate database we permit this site to state its name!)

Vinous

Vinous

96

The 2011 Riesling Dalsheimer Hubacker Grosses Gewächs from Weingut Keller demonstrated the immeasurable talent of Klaus-Peter Keller to such a degree that the following morning my friend sent a text enquiring where he could acquire bottles. As usual, I wisely asked the sommelier to decant the Riesling to watch it unfold in the glass. As suggested by its deep color, there is a hint of botrytis: dried honey, acacia flowers, saffron and crushed stone, all delivered with stunning delineation. The palate is underpinned by an absolutely killer line of acidity and a salinity that gets the saliva in a blather. Alchemically, this dry Riesling seems to expand in the glass, revealing more and more layers while retaining pin-point precision. Magnificent.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92

Pear, zesty lime and pineapple close to the core ally themselves to crystalline, alkaline and stony notes in Keller's 2011 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs, leading to a juicy palate impression and finish that positively shimmer. Coriander seed, grapefruit rind, peach kernel, nut oils and quinine add piquant pungency to this impressively persistent performance that should be worth following for at least a decade. This site tends to wear its extract on its sleeve, but fortunately that doesn't this year preclude succulence, lift or refreshment. I think of Kirchspiel as feline, whereas Hubacker is a rather large canine bounding into your lap. Cool nights from mid-summer on - but especially in October - played into and seemed to confirm Keller's strategy of depending on low temperatures to truly release the aromatic potential of Riesling grapes (though he is the first to admit that he hasn't a notion of why this is so). "It's critical that you wait for Riesling until you can get into that period" of chilly weather, he opines, "and this year there was no reason you couldn't wait; and then plenty of time to strategize picking. But," he adds, "you couldn't get there if you didn't leave large enough yields," because otherwise one's picking hand would be forced by potential alcohol. In this year, Keller was able to purchase from Franz Karl Schmitt his iconic, eponymous former estate's best parcels in Niersteiner Pettenthal and Hipping, sites with an illustrious reputation from bygone years that Keller has wasted no time in reviving and polishing. (It was inspiring to be able to walk these particular vineyards on the "Rotem Hang" with both of them late last summer and share in their obvious mutual delight at this historic real estate transaction.) Increased refinement, delicacy, and complexity continue to characterize the best of Keller's residually sweet wines, and it's clear that his range of "R" bottlings from top sites - approximately halbtrocken in specifications - is taken with increased seriousness and will expand, annually incorporating at least one such wine that (as is now also the case with Morstein, Abtserde and G-Max) won't be bottled before August or released before the following spring. Nor has Keller given up his intention - VDP ideology to the contrary notwithstanding - of rendering residually sweet Kabinett from his Nierstein crus; it's just that 2011 fruit was too ripe (and 2010 had been too scarce). Once again this year, despite devoting more time to tasting the wines of this estate than to those of almost any other, I still cannot pretend to have sampled Keller's entire 2011 vintage collection, the especially notable omissions being T.B.A.s from Hubacker and Kirchspiel. (Time has also conspired to keep me from reporting on Keller's 2009 Pinots, which I have as yet tasted only before they were assembled. Numerous details on Keller's sites, stylistic ideals, and labeling practices can be found in my issue 198 report. And, apropos labeling, Abtserde continues to have to appear in print as AbtsE-, even though for purposes of the Wine Advocate database we permit this site to state its name!)

Vinous

Vinous

96

The 2011 Riesling Dalsheimer Hubacker Grosses Gewächs from Weingut Keller demonstrated the immeasurable talent of Klaus-Peter Keller to such a degree that the following morning my friend sent a text enquiring where he could acquire bottles. As usual, I wisely asked the sommelier to decant the Riesling to watch it unfold in the glass. As suggested by its deep color, there is a hint of botrytis: dried honey, acacia flowers, saffron and crushed stone, all delivered with stunning delineation. The palate is underpinned by an absolutely killer line of acidity and a salinity that gets the saliva in a blather. Alchemically, this dry Riesling seems to expand in the glass, revealing more and more layers while retaining pin-point precision. Magnificent.