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Domaine Leroy

2011 Domaine Leroy, Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 3X750ML

France Pinot Noir Burgundy Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 3X750ML

Wine Advocate

97
/
2011 Domaine Leroy, Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 3X750ML
Domaine Leroy

2011 Domaine Leroy, Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 3X750ML

France Pinot Noir Burgundy Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 3X750ML

Wine Advocate

97
/
0 In Stock

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Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Domaine Leroy

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Leroy

Lalou Bize-Leroy was born into wine, her family's negociant business long one of the greatest sources of Burgundy dating back to the mid-19th century. In 1988, Leroy began her Domaine with the purchase of Domaine Charles Noëllat and Philippe Remy, and today covers 22 hectares of some of the most incredible vineyard land in all of Burgundy.

Leroy's focus for the first 30 years of her career was on her family's negociant business, as well as with the winemaking at DRC; when the opportunity presented itself to acquire the vineyards of Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee and Philippe Remy in Gevrey in 1988, Leroy sold part of the shares of her Maison in order to make the purchase. At that point, the Domaine become her focus, and though she still held nearly 50% of DRC as well, she stepped aside to elevate her own Domaine, and implement the biodynamic principles DRC had avoided to that point.

Today Leroy farms 9 Grand Crus, 8 Premier Crus and 8 village plots between Auxey-Duresses, Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanee. The secrets are only in the vineyards, as the quality control is second to none - the resulting yields are tiny - about 15 hL/ha - creating sumptuous, mind-blowingly comples and age-worthy wines.

In the vineyard, the work is tireless; each vine tended to individually to assess its health, at harvest the clusters are hand-clipped and re-sized, removing any grape that is less than perfect. Before fermentations the incredibly labor-intensive process of baie-par-baie is commenced, where the grapes are hand-clipped from the cluster, preserving the pedicel; this will provide an essence of whole-cluster fermentations without any off-putting green aromas or altering the pH drastically. Every wine is fermented in personally-selected, new Francois Freres casks, aged on their lees and racked once midway through the elevage.

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

97

The 2011 Romanee-St-Vivant Grand Cru is blessed with a quintessential, floral bouquet that has beguiling complexity. Just allowing it to open over two or three minutes reveals hidden facets: limestone cave, dried herbs, jasmine tea and bay leaf that are all exquisitely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine grip on the entry. There is plenty of concentration here, but it is brilliantly channeled and the finish fans out gloriously on the spice-tinged, animated finish. This is a sensational wine. Since I started visiting chateaux and growers in 1997, I have been fortunate to have ticked off most of my personal Holy Grails, yet a handful remain. One was to visit Domaine Leroy and taste with Lalou Bize-Leroy, who I have only met briefly on two occasions in London. Given the responsibility of covering Burgundy, I avowed to tick that one off as soon as possible. So, on a sultry Thursday morning, I finally pulled into the pebbled courtyard of her winery in the village of Vosne with maybe just a single butterfly fluttering around inside. Lalou was stepping out of her 4x4, beloved dogs yapping around their mother and perhaps warning her of an intruder in their midst. They are not exactly cut out to be guard dogs – no offence intended. Lalou was exactly how I remembered – with her wiry frame, like a titanium alloyed twig. Her piercing hawk-like blue eyes and angular cheekbones would give Kate Moss a run for her money. She was attired like a fashionable thirty-something and exuded the vivacity of a twenty-something with a penchant for the occasional rock climb. After pleasantries we discussed her belief in biodynamism and the ways in which the cosmos affects Mother Nature down to the Earth’s core. We toured the rudimentary winery occupied by the black-painted wooden vats and then down below to a vaulted tasting room, bottles lying hither and thither of what must constitute every wine she has made since acquiring Charles Noellat’s holdings in 1988 to establish Domaine Leroy. She was courteous to the point of occasionally scolding herself for vocally enthusing about the wines, mindful of not disturbing my perspicuity. Did the wines stand up to their reputations and let us face it, stratospheric price? The answer is “Yes.” Here was a master-class in terroir: the wines made in almost identical fashion in the winery, so that what is perceived in bottle is the interplay between Mother Nature and vine (under the guiding hand of Rudolph Steiner philosophy). Of course, one must always remain objective, and I have been around the block enough times to simply relate precisely what I find within the radius of a wineglass. And in 2011, it was clear that the wines of Lalou Bize-Leroy seemed to deliver a sensational level of quality that would make most winemakers curl up and weep, asking: “How does she do it?” I had to inquire at the end of the tasting whether they were all matured entirely in new oak, so seamlessly was the wood embroidered into each cuvee. Tasting through the entire range of 23 wines, before zooming down to Domaine d’Auvenay, the high points were scintillating Nuits-St-Georges Village Crus that transcended all my expectations and the sheer consistency of the Grand Crus, perhaps with the exception of the 2011 Latricieres-Chambertin, which I have always found wanting in the past. The Romanee-St-Vivant could be the apotheosis of the vintage, certainly one of the finest that I have tasted from the domaine and even dared “out-finesse” the Richebourg. What amazed me was the otherworldly precision, as if you could pick out each aroma or flavor from the air. Only the Chambolle-Musigny Charmes appeared unruly when compared to its peers, a little too feisty on the nose for my liking. Otherwise, this is just magic in a glass.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

97

The 2011 Romanee-St-Vivant Grand Cru is blessed with a quintessential, floral bouquet that has beguiling complexity. Just allowing it to open over two or three minutes reveals hidden facets: limestone cave, dried herbs, jasmine tea and bay leaf that are all exquisitely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine grip on the entry. There is plenty of concentration here, but it is brilliantly channeled and the finish fans out gloriously on the spice-tinged, animated finish. This is a sensational wine. Since I started visiting chateaux and growers in 1997, I have been fortunate to have ticked off most of my personal Holy Grails, yet a handful remain. One was to visit Domaine Leroy and taste with Lalou Bize-Leroy, who I have only met briefly on two occasions in London. Given the responsibility of covering Burgundy, I avowed to tick that one off as soon as possible. So, on a sultry Thursday morning, I finally pulled into the pebbled courtyard of her winery in the village of Vosne with maybe just a single butterfly fluttering around inside. Lalou was stepping out of her 4x4, beloved dogs yapping around their mother and perhaps warning her of an intruder in their midst. They are not exactly cut out to be guard dogs – no offence intended. Lalou was exactly how I remembered – with her wiry frame, like a titanium alloyed twig. Her piercing hawk-like blue eyes and angular cheekbones would give Kate Moss a run for her money. She was attired like a fashionable thirty-something and exuded the vivacity of a twenty-something with a penchant for the occasional rock climb. After pleasantries we discussed her belief in biodynamism and the ways in which the cosmos affects Mother Nature down to the Earth’s core. We toured the rudimentary winery occupied by the black-painted wooden vats and then down below to a vaulted tasting room, bottles lying hither and thither of what must constitute every wine she has made since acquiring Charles Noellat’s holdings in 1988 to establish Domaine Leroy. She was courteous to the point of occasionally scolding herself for vocally enthusing about the wines, mindful of not disturbing my perspicuity. Did the wines stand up to their reputations and let us face it, stratospheric price? The answer is “Yes.” Here was a master-class in terroir: the wines made in almost identical fashion in the winery, so that what is perceived in bottle is the interplay between Mother Nature and vine (under the guiding hand of Rudolph Steiner philosophy). Of course, one must always remain objective, and I have been around the block enough times to simply relate precisely what I find within the radius of a wineglass. And in 2011, it was clear that the wines of Lalou Bize-Leroy seemed to deliver a sensational level of quality that would make most winemakers curl up and weep, asking: “How does she do it?” I had to inquire at the end of the tasting whether they were all matured entirely in new oak, so seamlessly was the wood embroidered into each cuvee. Tasting through the entire range of 23 wines, before zooming down to Domaine d’Auvenay, the high points were scintillating Nuits-St-Georges Village Crus that transcended all my expectations and the sheer consistency of the Grand Crus, perhaps with the exception of the 2011 Latricieres-Chambertin, which I have always found wanting in the past. The Romanee-St-Vivant could be the apotheosis of the vintage, certainly one of the finest that I have tasted from the domaine and even dared “out-finesse” the Richebourg. What amazed me was the otherworldly precision, as if you could pick out each aroma or flavor from the air. Only the Chambolle-Musigny Charmes appeared unruly when compared to its peers, a little too feisty on the nose for my liking. Otherwise, this is just magic in a glass.