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2011 Domaine Francois Raveneau, Chablis Premier Cru, Montee de Tonnerre

From 2.51 hectares of 50-year old vines, held in esteem nearly as high as the Grand Crus. Hand-harvested, fermented in used oak barrels and aged in feuillettes for about 1 year.

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A true legend of Burgundy, not just Chablis, Raveneau has made their name on whip-smart farming, hand-harvesting, but the house will cease at nothing to achieve perfection. The yields are microscopic as the vines are kept neatly trimmed to limit the number of clusters. In the cellar, all fermentation occurs in barrels and the wines are kept on the lees for a longer elevage. The old vines of Raveneau reward great patience, as with time these bottles only increase in greatness; follow the Aubert de Villaine rule of thumb here: drink within the first 5 years or don't touch them for another fifteen!

Domaine Francois Raveneau

In the mid-20th century, Francois Raveneau quietly assembled what became the backbone of the most legendary Chablis house we've ever known. What Francois realized and his children, Bernard and Jean-Marie have come to know is that the old vines should be preserved at all costs, as they are what sets this great domaine apart. Every winter, the vines are cut back greatly to reduce the amount of clusters per vine, so that the vines may concentrate all energy on fewer berries, thereby increasing the complexity further. Treatments are all natural in the vineyard, and the fruit hand-harvested to allow the finest grapes making it to the press without any damage.

In the winery, Bernard's daughter Isabelle oversees the winemaking; after pressing, the juice is allowerd to settle for 24 hours. From there, the fermentations will occur in barrel, where the resulting wine is allowed to remain on its lees and go through malo-lactic conversion. A year in feuillettes, barrels half the size of a barrique, will follow; these are not new at all (6-8 years' average age), as it is not to impart a wood flavor but a texture and allow better oxygen interchange.

All told, Raveneau is very much in the camp of DRC, Lafon, or any other producer whose reputation is bulletproof as a certified A-Lister beyond reproach. The only problem is that we can never get enough of these delicious wines that are splendid with food, and just as special to sit and ponder over.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Francois Raveneau

A true legend of Burgundy, not just Chablis, Raveneau has made their name on whip-smart farming, hand-harvesting, but the house will cease at nothing to achieve perfection. The yields are microscopic as the vines are kept neatly trimmed to limit the number of clusters. In the cellar, all fermentation occurs in barrels and the wines are kept on the lees for a longer elevage. The old vines of Raveneau reward great patience, as with time these bottles only increase in greatness; follow the Aubert de Villaine rule of thumb here: drink within the first 5 years or don't touch them for another fifteen!

In the mid-20th century, Francois Raveneau quietly assembled what became the backbone of the most legendary Chablis house we've ever known. What Francois realized and his children, Bernard and Jean-Marie have come to know is that the old vines should be preserved at all costs, as they are what sets this great domaine apart. Every winter, the vines are cut back greatly to reduce the amount of clusters per vine, so that the vines may concentrate all energy on fewer berries, thereby increasing the complexity further. Treatments are all natural in the vineyard, and the fruit hand-harvested to allow the finest grapes making it to the press without any damage.

In the winery, Bernard's daughter Isabelle oversees the winemaking; after pressing, the juice is allowerd to settle for 24 hours. From there, the fermentations will occur in barrel, where the resulting wine is allowed to remain on its lees and go through malo-lactic conversion. A year in feuillettes, barrels half the size of a barrique, will follow; these are not new at all (6-8 years' average age), as it is not to impart a wood flavor but a texture and allow better oxygen interchange.

All told, Raveneau is very much in the camp of DRC, Lafon, or any other producer whose reputation is bulletproof as a certified A-Lister beyond reproach. The only problem is that we can never get enough of these delicious wines that are splendid with food, and just as special to sit and ponder over.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

91

The Raveneaus’ 2011 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre evinces fusil and stony notes already on the nose, signaling another wine from the collection in question that is more prominently minerally in character than the vintage norm. It’s also surprisingly under-stated in its evocations of citrus and pit fruits, and while considerably more pliable in texture than the corresponding Butteaux, is characterized by finishing restraint. Isabelle and Bernard Raveneau are both quick to insist that it is inherent in this site and these 50-year-old vines to need time to express themselves. Look to follow this through at least 2020. There is something disconcerting about stepping from their old cellar into the vaulted, spare stone and concrete expanse that now houses most of Bernard and Isabelle Raveneau’s barrels, but I have no doubt that the spaciousness of this new arrangement will have its subtle, positive influence on quality at what many would peg as the foremost estate in Chablis. And while I try to refrain from mentioning coopers by name (and in all but rare instances – with French tonneliers, anyway – succeed), I would simply point out that a comparison of the older and more recent barrels at this estate encourages me in the belief that changes taking place in that department, too, will only enhance quality. Bernard Raveneau describes 2012 as affording “lovely acidity and equilibrium,” and I do not doubt that its fruits at this address will uphold a reputation for improving in bottle and avoiding the premature oxidation that confounds wine lovers’ hopes for even some renowned and youthfully impressive Chablis. (Since it applies to all of my reviews of Raveneau’s 2012s, I suggest consulting my explanation in the introduction to this report of just how I utilize “+?” in rating wines before bottling.)

Vinous

Vinous

94

The 2011 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is all about grace. A gentle hint of spice leads to dried pears, crushed flowers, red berries and licorice. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2011 is a marvel to behold. Suggestions of smoke, graphite and licorice add layers of nuance in a magical wine loaded with class and personality. Best of all, the 2011 is relatively approachable by Raveneau standards, which means reader won't have to wait long at all to experience the magic of one of the great sites in Chablis.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

91

The Raveneaus’ 2011 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre evinces fusil and stony notes already on the nose, signaling another wine from the collection in question that is more prominently minerally in character than the vintage norm. It’s also surprisingly under-stated in its evocations of citrus and pit fruits, and while considerably more pliable in texture than the corresponding Butteaux, is characterized by finishing restraint. Isabelle and Bernard Raveneau are both quick to insist that it is inherent in this site and these 50-year-old vines to need time to express themselves. Look to follow this through at least 2020. There is something disconcerting about stepping from their old cellar into the vaulted, spare stone and concrete expanse that now houses most of Bernard and Isabelle Raveneau’s barrels, but I have no doubt that the spaciousness of this new arrangement will have its subtle, positive influence on quality at what many would peg as the foremost estate in Chablis. And while I try to refrain from mentioning coopers by name (and in all but rare instances – with French tonneliers, anyway – succeed), I would simply point out that a comparison of the older and more recent barrels at this estate encourages me in the belief that changes taking place in that department, too, will only enhance quality. Bernard Raveneau describes 2012 as affording “lovely acidity and equilibrium,” and I do not doubt that its fruits at this address will uphold a reputation for improving in bottle and avoiding the premature oxidation that confounds wine lovers’ hopes for even some renowned and youthfully impressive Chablis. (Since it applies to all of my reviews of Raveneau’s 2012s, I suggest consulting my explanation in the introduction to this report of just how I utilize “+?” in rating wines before bottling.)

Vinous

Vinous

94

The 2011 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is all about grace. A gentle hint of spice leads to dried pears, crushed flowers, red berries and licorice. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2011 is a marvel to behold. Suggestions of smoke, graphite and licorice add layers of nuance in a magical wine loaded with class and personality. Best of all, the 2011 is relatively approachable by Raveneau standards, which means reader won't have to wait long at all to experience the magic of one of the great sites in Chablis.