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2011 Coche-Dury, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Spanning just 0.33 ha and planted in 1960, Coche-Dury's wines are highly esteemed and eagerly sought after, making them among the most famous white Burgundies. The winemaking process is traditional, involving extended lees contact and aging in 43% new oak barrels for 15-22 months, depending on the vintage. The 2011 vintage presented unforeseen challenges, yet under Raphael's guidance, this wine stands as a testament to meticulous viticulture and cellar patience. The result is a wine of intense concentration, marked by focused acidity and promising aging potential.

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The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet that truly deserves the phrase “liquid mineral.” Imagine a limestone quarry being melted down and then distilled multiple times until there is just enough to fill your wine glass. The palate has perfect acidity and subtle spicy notes on the entry: hints of lime flower, citrus lemon and a subtle note of mandarin coming through with aeration. Is exhibits balletic poise on the finish – a sensational Corton-Charlemagne that just may turn out to be just as good as the 2010. Drink 2018-2035. As I had anticipated, Raphael Coche requested that I visit after he had clocked off for the day. No problem – I’d rather he focuses on the vines than appease the demands of us “pesky” wine writers. This was actually my first visit to the domaine, which seems odd because it is many moons since I first fell in love with Jean-Francois Coche’s wines at a memorable tasting in London in the late 1990s. Since then, Raphael, still in his early thirties, has deftly slipped into his father’s shoes. Tall and the spitting image of papa, I had been forewarned that Raphael can be reticent at times. On the contrary, he was refreshingly garrulous, chatting not only about his own wines but enthusing about Pomerol after I espied a dusty bottle of 1987 Petrus incongruously perched on the shelf. In my opinion, and indeed others’, Raphael has subtly tweaked the style and perhaps even improved on what was already a winning formula. Recent vintages seem more consistent, perhaps even more aligned with their respective terroirs. On this visit, we tasted through most of the domaine’s 2011s that had been bottled the previous spring and are currently on the market. Raphael spoke enthusiastically about the 2011 vintage and rightly so. There is a natural sensibility to these wines, an approachability that is not always evident in their wines, proceeding to compare them to the 2001 vintage. My experience of this domaine’s wines means that I am happy to put long drinking windows for even the village crus, which I often reward a decade in bottle. Personally, I have found less premature oxidation at this address than others, in particular with respect to younger vintages, though nobody is totally immune.

Vinous

Vinous

94

(43% new oak here): Very tight nose hints at lemon, crushed stone and a discreet leesy quality. Then surprisingly more open-knit on the palate than the Perrieres but still penetrating, powerful and brisk. Finishes with an almost tannic quality and a lingering hint of mirabelle. Coche actually feels that all of his 2011s combine power with a relatively pliant texture and believes that even this wine will be drinking very well in five years' time. But he also prefers the Perrieres 2011 to the young 2012 version. (At the end of my tasting, Coche showed me his 2011 Volnay, a remarkably primary wine with terrific intensity and sappiness to its juicy cherry flavor and a finish featuring silky tannins and noteworthy finesse.)

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet that truly deserves the phrase “liquid mineral.” Imagine a limestone quarry being melted down and then distilled multiple times until there is just enough to fill your wine glass. The palate has perfect acidity and subtle spicy notes on the entry: hints of lime flower, citrus lemon and a subtle note of mandarin coming through with aeration. Is exhibits balletic poise on the finish – a sensational Corton-Charlemagne that just may turn out to be just as good as the 2010. Drink 2018-2035. As I had anticipated, Raphael Coche requested that I visit after he had clocked off for the day. No problem – I’d rather he focuses on the vines than appease the demands of us “pesky” wine writers. This was actually my first visit to the domaine, which seems odd because it is many moons since I first fell in love with Jean-Francois Coche’s wines at a memorable tasting in London in the late 1990s. Since then, Raphael, still in his early thirties, has deftly slipped into his father’s shoes. Tall and the spitting image of papa, I had been forewarned that Raphael can be reticent at times. On the contrary, he was refreshingly garrulous, chatting not only about his own wines but enthusing about Pomerol after I espied a dusty bottle of 1987 Petrus incongruously perched on the shelf. In my opinion, and indeed others’, Raphael has subtly tweaked the style and perhaps even improved on what was already a winning formula. Recent vintages seem more consistent, perhaps even more aligned with their respective terroirs. On this visit, we tasted through most of the domaine’s 2011s that had been bottled the previous spring and are currently on the market. Raphael spoke enthusiastically about the 2011 vintage and rightly so. There is a natural sensibility to these wines, an approachability that is not always evident in their wines, proceeding to compare them to the 2001 vintage. My experience of this domaine’s wines means that I am happy to put long drinking windows for even the village crus, which I often reward a decade in bottle. Personally, I have found less premature oxidation at this address than others, in particular with respect to younger vintages, though nobody is totally immune.

Vinous

Vinous

94

(43% new oak here): Very tight nose hints at lemon, crushed stone and a discreet leesy quality. Then surprisingly more open-knit on the palate than the Perrieres but still penetrating, powerful and brisk. Finishes with an almost tannic quality and a lingering hint of mirabelle. Coche actually feels that all of his 2011s combine power with a relatively pliant texture and believes that even this wine will be drinking very well in five years' time. But he also prefers the Perrieres 2011 to the young 2012 version. (At the end of my tasting, Coche showed me his 2011 Volnay, a remarkably primary wine with terrific intensity and sappiness to its juicy cherry flavor and a finish featuring silky tannins and noteworthy finesse.)