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Wittmann

2010 Wittmann, Westhofener Morstein Riesling GG, Rheinhessen

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 750ML

Wine Advocate

88

Vinous

91
/
2010 Wittmann, Westhofener Morstein Riesling GG, Rheinhessen
Wittmann

2010 Wittmann, Westhofener Morstein Riesling GG, Rheinhessen

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 750ML

Wine Advocate

88

Vinous

91
/
0 In Stock

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A family estate of a cool four centuries of winemaking history in the Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann's fame and quality took a dramatic upturn starting with Günter Wittmann's decision to convert all of the family vineyards to organic viticulture in 1990. His son, Philipp today runs the estate, and was crowned Germany's winemaker of the year in 2014. His Rieslings both dry and sweet have captivated in the past two decades, the hallmark an incredible purity and concentration of both minerals and fruit.

Wittmann

The vineyard holdings are impressive; Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein may sound familiar as Keller sources from these as well. Beyond those, the Wittmann family's warmest site is called Aulerde, located at the foot of Kirschspiel, Haley's favorite:

"Revisiting Kirchspiel four years later, not having had Wittmann in the interim, that same smile returned when I tasted the 2021 Kirchspiel GG. I couldn’t tear my nose away from the glass; the aromas were simply captivating. Upon taking a sip, it transported me back to that initial encounter with Wittmann and the fond memories of harvest. The acidity was zinging, dancing across my palate with nuances of minerals and an abundance of tropical and citrus flavors that delighted my taste buds. These wines are ethereal, evoking a profound sense of place and time; the 2021 is merely scratching the surface." - Haley O'Brien

La Borne Alte Reben Auktion is released via the VDP Auktion annually is from 45-year old vines from within Morstein; this is a supremely well-structured Riesling, replete with tropical fruits and spice elements that reveal after much air, along with herbal and mineral aromas and a long, refined finish. 

Aulerde GG is the warmest site of the estate, but with aromas of both ripe orchard and tropical fruits as well as earthy spices and herbs. Tart and taut in its youth, but zesty and long with age.  

Brunnenhäuschen GG has a bit more power to it, with plenty of herbs and hints of dark fruits as well. It's deserving of time in the cellar to reveal its juicy tendencies, but can be drunk earlier in life with a good amount of decanting beforehand, as it will be tart off the cork. 

Kirchspiel GG is a broader example than that of Keller, showing more orchard and stone fruits on the nose, while still quite bright and citrusy on the palate. Shows its class impeccably well with age or as a young wine. 

Morstein GG often proves to be very minerally in its youth, with defined citrus and herbs. As it develops, the fruit becomes more integrated and almost candied in nature, usually a broad, grand style that feels even more dry than the other GGs but in a good way. 

Morstein Kabinett is light and fresh, round and soft with a delightful dollop of sweetness to balance the bright, stony acidity. 

Westhofener Riesling is the younger-vined "Trocken" (dry) style, but still quite a serious wine. Will reward some air in the glass or decanter with loads of citrus, honey and delicate spices, and the air will allow the fleshiness to unveil to balance the acidity. 

Meet the Producer

Wittmann

A family estate of a cool four centuries of winemaking history in the Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann's fame and quality took a dramatic upturn starting with Günter Wittmann's decision to convert all of the family vineyards to organic viticulture in 1990. His son, Philipp today runs the estate, and was crowned Germany's winemaker of the year in 2014. His Rieslings both dry and sweet have captivated in the past two decades, the hallmark an incredible purity and concentration of both minerals and fruit.

The vineyard holdings are impressive; Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein may sound familiar as Keller sources from these as well. Beyond those, the Wittmann family's warmest site is called Aulerde, located at the foot of Kirschspiel, Haley's favorite:

"Revisiting Kirchspiel four years later, not having had Wittmann in the interim, that same smile returned when I tasted the 2021 Kirchspiel GG. I couldn’t tear my nose away from the glass; the aromas were simply captivating. Upon taking a sip, it transported me back to that initial encounter with Wittmann and the fond memories of harvest. The acidity was zinging, dancing across my palate with nuances of minerals and an abundance of tropical and citrus flavors that delighted my taste buds. These wines are ethereal, evoking a profound sense of place and time; the 2021 is merely scratching the surface." - Haley O'Brien

La Borne Alte Reben Auktion is released via the VDP Auktion annually is from 45-year old vines from within Morstein; this is a supremely well-structured Riesling, replete with tropical fruits and spice elements that reveal after much air, along with herbal and mineral aromas and a long, refined finish. 

Aulerde GG is the warmest site of the estate, but with aromas of both ripe orchard and tropical fruits as well as earthy spices and herbs. Tart and taut in its youth, but zesty and long with age.  

Brunnenhäuschen GG has a bit more power to it, with plenty of herbs and hints of dark fruits as well. It's deserving of time in the cellar to reveal its juicy tendencies, but can be drunk earlier in life with a good amount of decanting beforehand, as it will be tart off the cork. 

Kirchspiel GG is a broader example than that of Keller, showing more orchard and stone fruits on the nose, while still quite bright and citrusy on the palate. Shows its class impeccably well with age or as a young wine. 

Morstein GG often proves to be very minerally in its youth, with defined citrus and herbs. As it develops, the fruit becomes more integrated and almost candied in nature, usually a broad, grand style that feels even more dry than the other GGs but in a good way. 

Morstein Kabinett is light and fresh, round and soft with a delightful dollop of sweetness to balance the bright, stony acidity. 

Westhofener Riesling is the younger-vined "Trocken" (dry) style, but still quite a serious wine. Will reward some air in the glass or decanter with loads of citrus, honey and delicate spices, and the air will allow the fleshiness to unveil to balance the acidity. 

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

88

Juicy and refreshing if rather tartly malic, Wittmann’s generic dry Riesling was less satisfying than a 2010 Westhofener Riesling trocken which leaned heavily on young vines in the Brunnenhausen and benefited from longer lees time. Peach kernel and walnut piquantly accent a pithy, brightly lemony palate, while hints of pear distillate as well as suggestions of chalk and sweat serve for intrigue. An abundance of glycerin (at 13% alcohol) helps ward off austerity or sharpness, and this finishes with formidable persistence. Not only was a high percentage of Wittmann’s 2010 Riesling shunted to his regular generic bottling, there was even an in-effect second wine to that generic which I didn’t taste, and into which the “Vorlese” or preliminary pickings that often make the cut for “village level” bottling were incorporated. The upshot is that this 2010 Westhofener Riesling took the biggest quantitative hit of any Wittmann 2010 bottling. Philipp Wittmann is always happy when (as is usually the case for his musts) fermentations go quickly, as he considers this ideal for capturing fruit. But his 2010s were having none of that plan! In the end, the active fermentative time and supplemental stays on their lees thereafter no doubt helped compensate for high acids and otherwise enrich what are still a relatively lean, not to mention bright bunch. “I was very concerned to monitor levels of malic acid,” says Wittmann, one of the minority to tell me they did this, whereas I would have thought this critical to any grower’s understanding of what was happening in 2010. “At the beginning, we had 2-to-1 malic-to-tartaric in Riesling, but by the time we finished harvesting they were roughly at parity.” He reports picking the best Riesling between around October 20-26, and scrupulously consigning any even the least bit botrytized berries to Auslese (if noble and from Morstein or Brunnenhauschen) or to oblivion, because they would have enhanced not just bitterness but also acidity in the dry wines.

Vinous

Vinous

91

White peach, sweet lime and cinnamon on the exuberant nose. Intensely ripe passion fruit flavor is framed and lifted by still-bracing acidity. With its serious density and herbal spice on the finish, this wine still has excellent potential, but is in an odd phase of its development. The primary fruit is gone, leaving the lean structure very apparent. This is vintage I like, but none of the 2010s were showing well today.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

88

Juicy and refreshing if rather tartly malic, Wittmann’s generic dry Riesling was less satisfying than a 2010 Westhofener Riesling trocken which leaned heavily on young vines in the Brunnenhausen and benefited from longer lees time. Peach kernel and walnut piquantly accent a pithy, brightly lemony palate, while hints of pear distillate as well as suggestions of chalk and sweat serve for intrigue. An abundance of glycerin (at 13% alcohol) helps ward off austerity or sharpness, and this finishes with formidable persistence. Not only was a high percentage of Wittmann’s 2010 Riesling shunted to his regular generic bottling, there was even an in-effect second wine to that generic which I didn’t taste, and into which the “Vorlese” or preliminary pickings that often make the cut for “village level” bottling were incorporated. The upshot is that this 2010 Westhofener Riesling took the biggest quantitative hit of any Wittmann 2010 bottling. Philipp Wittmann is always happy when (as is usually the case for his musts) fermentations go quickly, as he considers this ideal for capturing fruit. But his 2010s were having none of that plan! In the end, the active fermentative time and supplemental stays on their lees thereafter no doubt helped compensate for high acids and otherwise enrich what are still a relatively lean, not to mention bright bunch. “I was very concerned to monitor levels of malic acid,” says Wittmann, one of the minority to tell me they did this, whereas I would have thought this critical to any grower’s understanding of what was happening in 2010. “At the beginning, we had 2-to-1 malic-to-tartaric in Riesling, but by the time we finished harvesting they were roughly at parity.” He reports picking the best Riesling between around October 20-26, and scrupulously consigning any even the least bit botrytized berries to Auslese (if noble and from Morstein or Brunnenhauschen) or to oblivion, because they would have enhanced not just bitterness but also acidity in the dry wines.

Vinous

Vinous

91

White peach, sweet lime and cinnamon on the exuberant nose. Intensely ripe passion fruit flavor is framed and lifted by still-bracing acidity. With its serious density and herbal spice on the finish, this wine still has excellent potential, but is in an odd phase of its development. The primary fruit is gone, leaving the lean structure very apparent. This is vintage I like, but none of the 2010s were showing well today.