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2010 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis
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While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Vincent Dauvissat

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.

Meet the Producer

Vincent Dauvissat

While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

Pointed, articulated and crystalline, the 2010 Chablis boasts gorgeous purity in its citrus, mint and crushed rock characteristics. Ideally, the 2010 is best left alone for at least another year or two. Today, it is the inner tension of the vintage that speaks most eloquently. The 2010 is insanely beautiful for an entry-level wine. Anticipated maturity: 2013. Vincent Dauvissat brought in his 2011s beginning on September 1st. Dauvissat likes the vintage, comparing it to 2009, but with a little more verve. For the first time malos were done by Christmas, which Dauvissat attributes to the precocious personality of the vintage. I tasted all of the 2011s from barrel, where they were aging on their fine lees after having been racked once. Dauvissat talks about the 2010 harvest as having two components. The fruit he brought in early had notable maturity and considerable concentration because of the tiny yields, while the fruit that came in after the September rain had a little bit better overall balance, which is to say alcohols around 12.5% and acidities that ranged from 6-7%, versus 13.5% and 7.5%, alcohol and acidity respectively, for the fruit harvested first. As a comparison, overall acidities for the 2011s were around 4%, significantly lower than 2010. Dauvissat told me his father planted the family’s vineyards with rootstocks that encourage early maturation, and that is a key in understanding many vintages at the domaine, including 2010, when an irregular flowering lowered yields dramatically. In 2010, the earlier flowering parcels got the worst of the bad weather, while the parcels that flowered later did better as the weather turned warmer and more stable at the most critical time. Overall yields were down approximately 40%. Sechets and Vaillons were also hit by frost.

Vinous

Vinous

91

Soil-driven aromas of crystallized lemon peel, hazelnut and fresh porcini. Silky, juicy and energetic, with the sugar/acid balance of the finest 2010s. Wonderfully tasty, vibrant village wine with terrific lift and the structure and verve to age. Impressively long for its appellation.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

Pointed, articulated and crystalline, the 2010 Chablis boasts gorgeous purity in its citrus, mint and crushed rock characteristics. Ideally, the 2010 is best left alone for at least another year or two. Today, it is the inner tension of the vintage that speaks most eloquently. The 2010 is insanely beautiful for an entry-level wine. Anticipated maturity: 2013. Vincent Dauvissat brought in his 2011s beginning on September 1st. Dauvissat likes the vintage, comparing it to 2009, but with a little more verve. For the first time malos were done by Christmas, which Dauvissat attributes to the precocious personality of the vintage. I tasted all of the 2011s from barrel, where they were aging on their fine lees after having been racked once. Dauvissat talks about the 2010 harvest as having two components. The fruit he brought in early had notable maturity and considerable concentration because of the tiny yields, while the fruit that came in after the September rain had a little bit better overall balance, which is to say alcohols around 12.5% and acidities that ranged from 6-7%, versus 13.5% and 7.5%, alcohol and acidity respectively, for the fruit harvested first. As a comparison, overall acidities for the 2011s were around 4%, significantly lower than 2010. Dauvissat told me his father planted the family’s vineyards with rootstocks that encourage early maturation, and that is a key in understanding many vintages at the domaine, including 2010, when an irregular flowering lowered yields dramatically. In 2010, the earlier flowering parcels got the worst of the bad weather, while the parcels that flowered later did better as the weather turned warmer and more stable at the most critical time. Overall yields were down approximately 40%. Sechets and Vaillons were also hit by frost.

Vinous

Vinous

91

Soil-driven aromas of crystallized lemon peel, hazelnut and fresh porcini. Silky, juicy and energetic, with the sugar/acid balance of the finest 2010s. Wonderfully tasty, vibrant village wine with terrific lift and the structure and verve to age. Impressively long for its appellation.