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2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, En Remilly
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The moniker "PYCM" intimates quality to any well-heeled collector, an immediate feel of comfort in knowing what lies beneath those off-white wax capsules. Colin-Morey has made a name for himself and his wines that few have successfully done without sacrificing quality, which he has not.

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

From his cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey oversees an enviable palate of different vineyards from seemingly every white wine climat in Burgundy. Along with his inheritance of fine vineyards from his father Marc Colin, for whose domaine Pierre-Yves was winemaker from 1994-2005, Colin has expanded his range with purchases and leases in some of the best plots from Chassagne, Puligny, Meursault, Saint-Aubin and beyond. His small-parcel bottlings from Grand Crus and lesser-known lieu dits are all possessing his winemaking signature of native yeasts and in-barrel fermentations, allowing for similar elegance in each bottling.

The attention is great in the vineyard, where whether the vineyard is owned or leased, the farming is similarly fastidious, opting to harvest at perfect ripeness across all parcels. Grapes are pressed at slightly higher pressure than is common, allowing the natural phenolics to provide texture and add even more aging potential. Wines are fermented in 350L barrels and do not undergo any lees stirring, fining or filtering before bottling.

Meet the Producer

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

The moniker "PYCM" intimates quality to any well-heeled collector, an immediate feel of comfort in knowing what lies beneath those off-white wax capsules. Colin-Morey has made a name for himself and his wines that few have successfully done without sacrificing quality, which he has not.

From his cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey oversees an enviable palate of different vineyards from seemingly every white wine climat in Burgundy. Along with his inheritance of fine vineyards from his father Marc Colin, for whose domaine Pierre-Yves was winemaker from 1994-2005, Colin has expanded his range with purchases and leases in some of the best plots from Chassagne, Puligny, Meursault, Saint-Aubin and beyond. His small-parcel bottlings from Grand Crus and lesser-known lieu dits are all possessing his winemaking signature of native yeasts and in-barrel fermentations, allowing for similar elegance in each bottling.

The attention is great in the vineyard, where whether the vineyard is owned or leased, the farming is similarly fastidious, opting to harvest at perfect ripeness across all parcels. Grapes are pressed at slightly higher pressure than is common, allowing the natural phenolics to provide texture and add even more aging potential. Wines are fermented in 350L barrels and do not undergo any lees stirring, fining or filtering before bottling.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

The 2009 St. Aubin En Remilly is the most minerally and nuanced of these 2009 St. Aubins. It possesses gorgeous precision in an understated, graceful style that is very pretty. This is an exquisite wine that also happens to be one of the very finest values in white Burgundy. It is a staple at my house. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well.

Vinous

Vinous

89

Pale yellow. Aromas of flinty minerality, baked bread and menthol. Dense and minerally in the mouth, with lovely precision for 2009. The dusty, vibrant finish shows a slight phenolic bitterness.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

90

The 2009 St. Aubin En Remilly is the most minerally and nuanced of these 2009 St. Aubins. It possesses gorgeous precision in an understated, graceful style that is very pretty. This is an exquisite wine that also happens to be one of the very finest values in white Burgundy. It is a staple at my house. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well.

Vinous

Vinous

89

Pale yellow. Aromas of flinty minerality, baked bread and menthol. Dense and minerally in the mouth, with lovely precision for 2009. The dusty, vibrant finish shows a slight phenolic bitterness.