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Emrich-Schonleber

2009 Emrich-Schonleber, Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken, Nahe 1.5L Nr11 (VDP Auction)

Germany Riesling Nahe 1.5L

Wine Advocate

93
/
2009 Emrich-Schonleber, Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken, Nahe 1.5L Nr11 (VDP Auction)
Emrich-Schonleber

2009 Emrich-Schonleber, Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken, Nahe 1.5L Nr11 (VDP Auction)

Germany Riesling Nahe 1.5L

Wine Advocate

93
/
0 In Stock

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"Emrich and Schönleber family trees date back in the Nahe to the mid-18th century, but they didn't even plant a grape until about 60 years ago!"

Emrich-Schonleber

From about 20 hectares of vineyards largely planted to steep, stony slopes, Emrich-Schönleber quickly moved into creating largely single-vineyard Rieslings from their awe-inspiring  collection of vineyards such as the Frühlingsplätzchen (feel free to call us for pronunciation) and Halenberg. Lost in the shuffle for long was Niederberg, but after much petitioning the stunning site chock-full of slate and quartzite soils was elevated to "Erste Lage", or "First Growth" - that is, essentially a Premier Cru site. As we said, this is a stunning site as its soils pop to the eye; they also generate a touch more ripeness with the absorption and reflection of light to the vines, meaning the Niederberg is a touch riper in aromatics, with its' bright citrus peel and spice, incredibly grippy texture and breathtaking length. A gem to enjoy now or watch unfurl over decades. Frühligsplätzchen or "little place of spring" is often more approachable than other GGs in its youth - leaner, more floral with ample citrus, but great length of minerality. Halenberg is the powerhouse that deserves cellaring, or at least a solid, splashy decanting. Dense, mineral and with a tightly-wound core of complex fruits.  

Pay attention also to the younger-vine wines, as they're gulpable and delicious right away. Halgans is harvested at spätlese levels of ripeness and fermented dry, so there is ample weight and density here, all from the Halenberg GG. Frühtau is similarly structured, only from the Frühlingsplätzchen, meaning this is softer, elegant, with plenty of minerality and spring herbs. Mineral is perhaps the best-known of the Schönleber wines, made with younger vines from all the top Grand Crus, making it both complex in its minerality and laser-sharp; this is the leanest and brightest of them all!

Meet the Producer

Emrich-Schonleber

"Emrich and Schönleber family trees date back in the Nahe to the mid-18th century, but they didn't even plant a grape until about 60 years ago!"

From about 20 hectares of vineyards largely planted to steep, stony slopes, Emrich-Schönleber quickly moved into creating largely single-vineyard Rieslings from their awe-inspiring  collection of vineyards such as the Frühlingsplätzchen (feel free to call us for pronunciation) and Halenberg. Lost in the shuffle for long was Niederberg, but after much petitioning the stunning site chock-full of slate and quartzite soils was elevated to "Erste Lage", or "First Growth" - that is, essentially a Premier Cru site. As we said, this is a stunning site as its soils pop to the eye; they also generate a touch more ripeness with the absorption and reflection of light to the vines, meaning the Niederberg is a touch riper in aromatics, with its' bright citrus peel and spice, incredibly grippy texture and breathtaking length. A gem to enjoy now or watch unfurl over decades. Frühligsplätzchen or "little place of spring" is often more approachable than other GGs in its youth - leaner, more floral with ample citrus, but great length of minerality. Halenberg is the powerhouse that deserves cellaring, or at least a solid, splashy decanting. Dense, mineral and with a tightly-wound core of complex fruits.  

Pay attention also to the younger-vine wines, as they're gulpable and delicious right away. Halgans is harvested at spätlese levels of ripeness and fermented dry, so there is ample weight and density here, all from the Halenberg GG. Frühtau is similarly structured, only from the Frühlingsplätzchen, meaning this is softer, elegant, with plenty of minerality and spring herbs. Mineral is perhaps the best-known of the Schönleber wines, made with younger vines from all the top Grand Crus, making it both complex in its minerality and laser-sharp; this is the leanest and brightest of them all!

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

The Schonlebers’ 2009 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling trocken offers a stimulating, striking dynamic of grapefruit and white peach with nut oils, peat, and deeply savory, saline, extract-sweet shrimp and lobster shell reduction. Uncannily allying palpable extract density with soaring levity, this is an example of discreet yet intriguingly complex aromas followed by a build-up of energy across the palate and an almost explosively intense finish. Look for the better part of a decade’s satisfaction from this wine which once again offers more complexity not to mention greater sensory seduction than all but a handful of Grosse Gewachse. Naturally, it is Werner Schonleber’s intention in part to offer a representative of his great sites that sells for less than a Grosses Gewachs. But more importantly, this represents a vinous showcase for the Halenberg possessed of its own distinct personality, and for a significant portion of dry Emrich-Schonleber Riesling to be deprived of a vineyard attribution solely for the greater marketing glory of the Grosse Gewachse – as the VDP would have it in most other German Riesling regions – strikes Schonleber (the way it does me) as foolishness, no less than it would be to forbid one from labeling a Riesling as “Halenberg Spatlese” for the allegedly greater glory of Halenberg Auslese. Werner and Frank Schonleber harvested through nearly the entire month of October, and noted that levels of sugar and total acidity remained fairly constant, while flavors kept improving and malic acid diminishing in favor of tartaric. Speaking of improving, it’s hard for these two vintners to much-improve their by now phenomenal batting average, but no Riesling lover is likely to suffer the least disappointment by buying bottles of Emrich-Schonleber 2009s. Especially at its dry end, this is a collection to describe which seems to call for an extended mineral vocabulary that doesn’t even exist in English or German! And in nobly sweet echelons, the small amount of Riesling the Schonlebers rendered is strikingly successful and informed by an ample if mysterious measure of sheer juiciness. About the absence of Eiswein, Frank Schonleber notes: “We had the feeling that ripeness had simply advanced too far in 2009 to justify leaving any grapes hanging in anticipation of frost.” Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

The Schonlebers’ 2009 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling trocken offers a stimulating, striking dynamic of grapefruit and white peach with nut oils, peat, and deeply savory, saline, extract-sweet shrimp and lobster shell reduction. Uncannily allying palpable extract density with soaring levity, this is an example of discreet yet intriguingly complex aromas followed by a build-up of energy across the palate and an almost explosively intense finish. Look for the better part of a decade’s satisfaction from this wine which once again offers more complexity not to mention greater sensory seduction than all but a handful of Grosse Gewachse. Naturally, it is Werner Schonleber’s intention in part to offer a representative of his great sites that sells for less than a Grosses Gewachs. But more importantly, this represents a vinous showcase for the Halenberg possessed of its own distinct personality, and for a significant portion of dry Emrich-Schonleber Riesling to be deprived of a vineyard attribution solely for the greater marketing glory of the Grosse Gewachse – as the VDP would have it in most other German Riesling regions – strikes Schonleber (the way it does me) as foolishness, no less than it would be to forbid one from labeling a Riesling as “Halenberg Spatlese” for the allegedly greater glory of Halenberg Auslese. Werner and Frank Schonleber harvested through nearly the entire month of October, and noted that levels of sugar and total acidity remained fairly constant, while flavors kept improving and malic acid diminishing in favor of tartaric. Speaking of improving, it’s hard for these two vintners to much-improve their by now phenomenal batting average, but no Riesling lover is likely to suffer the least disappointment by buying bottles of Emrich-Schonleber 2009s. Especially at its dry end, this is a collection to describe which seems to call for an extended mineral vocabulary that doesn’t even exist in English or German! And in nobly sweet echelons, the small amount of Riesling the Schonlebers rendered is strikingly successful and informed by an ample if mysterious measure of sheer juiciness. About the absence of Eiswein, Frank Schonleber notes: “We had the feeling that ripeness had simply advanced too far in 2009 to justify leaving any grapes hanging in anticipation of frost.” Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463