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Wittmann

2008 Wittmann, Westhofener Morstein Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 1.5L

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 1.5L

Wine Advocate

88

Vinous

93
/
2008 Wittmann, Westhofener Morstein Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 1.5L
Wittmann

2008 Wittmann, Westhofener Morstein Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 1.5L

Germany Riesling Rheinhessen 1.5L

Wine Advocate

88

Vinous

93
/

Morstein is recognized as one of its most prestigious plots in Westhofen. The vines are positioned on the mid part of the slope at about 180–240 meters above sea level. It’s considered a cooler section in a warmer region which leads to a healthy amount of acidity in the wines. The wine is lightly pressed, delicately handled via gravity flow and matured on the lees in large neutral barrels. Expressively aromatic, full of character with lean acidity and evolving beautifully in bottle.

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A family estate of a cool four centuries of winemaking history in the Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann's fame and quality took a dramatic upturn starting with Günter Wittmann's decision to convert all of the family vineyards to organic viticulture in 1990. His son, Philipp today runs the estate, and was crowned Germany's winemaker of the year in 2014. His Rieslings both dry and sweet have captivated in the past two decades, the hallmark an incredible purity and concentration of both minerals and fruit.

Wittmann

The vineyard holdings are impressive; Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein may sound familiar as Keller sources from these as well. Beyond those, the Wittmann family's warmest site is called Aulerde, located at the foot of Kirschspiel, Haley's favorite:

"Revisiting Kirchspiel four years later, not having had Wittmann in the interim, that same smile returned when I tasted the 2021 Kirchspiel GG. I couldn’t tear my nose away from the glass; the aromas were simply captivating. Upon taking a sip, it transported me back to that initial encounter with Wittmann and the fond memories of harvest. The acidity was zinging, dancing across my palate with nuances of minerals and an abundance of tropical and citrus flavors that delighted my taste buds. These wines are ethereal, evoking a profound sense of place and time; the 2021 is merely scratching the surface." - Haley O'Brien

La Borne Alte Reben Auktion is released via the VDP Auktion annually is from 45-year old vines from within Morstein; this is a supremely well-structured Riesling, replete with tropical fruits and spice elements that reveal after much air, along with herbal and mineral aromas and a long, refined finish. 

Aulerde GG is the warmest site of the estate, but with aromas of both ripe orchard and tropical fruits as well as earthy spices and herbs. Tart and taut in its youth, but zesty and long with age.  

Brunnenhäuschen GG has a bit more power to it, with plenty of herbs and hints of dark fruits as well. It's deserving of time in the cellar to reveal its juicy tendencies, but can be drunk earlier in life with a good amount of decanting beforehand, as it will be tart off the cork. 

Kirchspiel GG is a broader example than that of Keller, showing more orchard and stone fruits on the nose, while still quite bright and citrusy on the palate. Shows its class impeccably well with age or as a young wine. 

Morstein GG often proves to be very minerally in its youth, with defined citrus and herbs. As it develops, the fruit becomes more integrated and almost candied in nature, usually a broad, grand style that feels even more dry than the other GGs but in a good way. 

Morstein Kabinett is light and fresh, round and soft with a delightful dollop of sweetness to balance the bright, stony acidity. 

Westhofener Riesling is the younger-vined "Trocken" (dry) style, but still quite a serious wine. Will reward some air in the glass or decanter with loads of citrus, honey and delicate spices, and the air will allow the fleshiness to unveil to balance the acidity. 

Meet the Producer

Wittmann

A family estate of a cool four centuries of winemaking history in the Rheinhessen, Weingut Wittmann's fame and quality took a dramatic upturn starting with Günter Wittmann's decision to convert all of the family vineyards to organic viticulture in 1990. His son, Philipp today runs the estate, and was crowned Germany's winemaker of the year in 2014. His Rieslings both dry and sweet have captivated in the past two decades, the hallmark an incredible purity and concentration of both minerals and fruit.

The vineyard holdings are impressive; Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen and Morstein may sound familiar as Keller sources from these as well. Beyond those, the Wittmann family's warmest site is called Aulerde, located at the foot of Kirschspiel, Haley's favorite:

"Revisiting Kirchspiel four years later, not having had Wittmann in the interim, that same smile returned when I tasted the 2021 Kirchspiel GG. I couldn’t tear my nose away from the glass; the aromas were simply captivating. Upon taking a sip, it transported me back to that initial encounter with Wittmann and the fond memories of harvest. The acidity was zinging, dancing across my palate with nuances of minerals and an abundance of tropical and citrus flavors that delighted my taste buds. These wines are ethereal, evoking a profound sense of place and time; the 2021 is merely scratching the surface." - Haley O'Brien

La Borne Alte Reben Auktion is released via the VDP Auktion annually is from 45-year old vines from within Morstein; this is a supremely well-structured Riesling, replete with tropical fruits and spice elements that reveal after much air, along with herbal and mineral aromas and a long, refined finish. 

Aulerde GG is the warmest site of the estate, but with aromas of both ripe orchard and tropical fruits as well as earthy spices and herbs. Tart and taut in its youth, but zesty and long with age.  

Brunnenhäuschen GG has a bit more power to it, with plenty of herbs and hints of dark fruits as well. It's deserving of time in the cellar to reveal its juicy tendencies, but can be drunk earlier in life with a good amount of decanting beforehand, as it will be tart off the cork. 

Kirchspiel GG is a broader example than that of Keller, showing more orchard and stone fruits on the nose, while still quite bright and citrusy on the palate. Shows its class impeccably well with age or as a young wine. 

Morstein GG often proves to be very minerally in its youth, with defined citrus and herbs. As it develops, the fruit becomes more integrated and almost candied in nature, usually a broad, grand style that feels even more dry than the other GGs but in a good way. 

Morstein Kabinett is light and fresh, round and soft with a delightful dollop of sweetness to balance the bright, stony acidity. 

Westhofener Riesling is the younger-vined "Trocken" (dry) style, but still quite a serious wine. Will reward some air in the glass or decanter with loads of citrus, honey and delicate spices, and the air will allow the fleshiness to unveil to balance the acidity. 

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

88

Wittmann’s 2008 Westhofener Riesling trocken once again incorporates younger vines and pre-harvest from Kirchspiel and Morstein and was vinified in a mixture of tank and cask. Pumpkin, narcissus, and spirituous suggestions of apricot in the nose segue into a glossy yet bright palate, with citrus oil and toasted nut bitterness as well as a chalky undertone all lending a certain austerity to its finish. Still, I think this will be best drunk over the next 3-4 years. On the one hand, relates Philipp Wittmann (who harvested the second half of October) I was very happy that I had such stable musts, so that not much could go wrong. But on the other hand, the acids in the Riesling musts were between nine and ten grams. You had to let the wines ferment slowly, and the acids harmonized nicely assisted by considerable tartrate precipitation, it should be noted. The wines needed longer on the lees, continues Wittmann, and were bottled four weeks later than usual. That none of this year’s Grosse Gewachse reached 13% alcohol, I perceived as a plus, since alcohol has been a source of brusqueness or roughness here on occasion. I’m personally a real fan of filigree, fine texture, remarks Wittmann, but on the other hand, I delight in a fat texture on the palate, and that certainly brings with it a certain youthful hardness phenolically-speaking. (Morstein, he thinks, is especially capable of uniting these virtues.) I continue to find Wittmann’s dry Rieslings impressively concentrated. But in my perception, they usually just won’t flex, give, or in the end stoop to genuinely refreshing, let alone to lightening-up and spreading delight, not even in this vintage for which levity is a byword. I find that situation incongruous since Wittmann’s own personality (like that of his father) is so warm and affable. On the other hand, I find his approach works brilliantly with Silvaner, a grape with an inherent tendency to become flabby and that needs not only tough love in the vineyard but structure and rectitude in the cellar. Then again, mine is presumably a minority opinion – certainly from a typical German standpoint, because Wittmann’s Rieslings are nowadays in huge demand there, with prices to match.

Vinous

Vinous

93

Vineyard peach, sweet lime and cinnamon on the exuberant nose. The intensely juicy depth of passion fruit is in perfect harmony with the wine's brisk but well-integrated acidity. With its combination of sheer weight and uplifting spice on the finish, this wine has evolved beautifully. I score it a point higher than I did at release, which is why I speak highly of many 2008s.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

88

Wittmann’s 2008 Westhofener Riesling trocken once again incorporates younger vines and pre-harvest from Kirchspiel and Morstein and was vinified in a mixture of tank and cask. Pumpkin, narcissus, and spirituous suggestions of apricot in the nose segue into a glossy yet bright palate, with citrus oil and toasted nut bitterness as well as a chalky undertone all lending a certain austerity to its finish. Still, I think this will be best drunk over the next 3-4 years. On the one hand, relates Philipp Wittmann (who harvested the second half of October) I was very happy that I had such stable musts, so that not much could go wrong. But on the other hand, the acids in the Riesling musts were between nine and ten grams. You had to let the wines ferment slowly, and the acids harmonized nicely assisted by considerable tartrate precipitation, it should be noted. The wines needed longer on the lees, continues Wittmann, and were bottled four weeks later than usual. That none of this year’s Grosse Gewachse reached 13% alcohol, I perceived as a plus, since alcohol has been a source of brusqueness or roughness here on occasion. I’m personally a real fan of filigree, fine texture, remarks Wittmann, but on the other hand, I delight in a fat texture on the palate, and that certainly brings with it a certain youthful hardness phenolically-speaking. (Morstein, he thinks, is especially capable of uniting these virtues.) I continue to find Wittmann’s dry Rieslings impressively concentrated. But in my perception, they usually just won’t flex, give, or in the end stoop to genuinely refreshing, let alone to lightening-up and spreading delight, not even in this vintage for which levity is a byword. I find that situation incongruous since Wittmann’s own personality (like that of his father) is so warm and affable. On the other hand, I find his approach works brilliantly with Silvaner, a grape with an inherent tendency to become flabby and that needs not only tough love in the vineyard but structure and rectitude in the cellar. Then again, mine is presumably a minority opinion – certainly from a typical German standpoint, because Wittmann’s Rieslings are nowadays in huge demand there, with prices to match.

Vinous

Vinous

93

Vineyard peach, sweet lime and cinnamon on the exuberant nose. The intensely juicy depth of passion fruit is in perfect harmony with the wine's brisk but well-integrated acidity. With its combination of sheer weight and uplifting spice on the finish, this wine has evolved beautifully. I score it a point higher than I did at release, which is why I speak highly of many 2008s.