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2008 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos
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While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Vincent Dauvissat

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.

Meet the Producer

Vincent Dauvissat

While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96-97

I tasted Dauvissat’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos assembled from tank very shortly before bottling, where it demonstrated a remarkably dense yet buoyant layering of citrus, quince, white peach, and formidably concentrated chalk, oyster shell, and iodine minerality. Citrus rind, quinine and fruit pit bitterness help extend a cleansing, gum-adhering, electrically charged, practically searing finish that foreshadows at least 15 years of glory, provided premature oxidation does not lay it low, something no one can predict, and which the track record at this address renders unlikely but unfortunately by no means unthinkable. About the prowess of this wine over the next half dozen years, though, as well as about that of Les Clos the site, I am left in no doubt by my present experience. Vincent Dauvissat points out that at least at his estate, 1996 was at once more severe yet more alcoholic and more exotic in aroma than what he terms the “more classic” vintage of 2008. Both years featured long cool growing seasons and wind-driven concentration in the late innings, but the fruit in 2008 was cleaner, and entirely botrytis-free, Dauvissat maintains. He says his 2008s come closer in character to 2002. (Incidentally, at age six months, Dauvissat’s 2009s showed promising vivacity and mineral inflection for their vintage.)

Vinous

Vinous

96

Bright medium yellow. At once penetrating and refined on the nose, with high-pitched aromas of lemon, orange zest and oyster shell accented by cinnamon and ginger spice notes. Wonderfully juicy and vibrant in the middle palate, conveying an impression of outstanding tactile density without weight. Flavors of pineapple, white pepper and salty minerality are at once generous and chewy. This beautifully balanced, fresh grand cru boasts outstanding inner-mouth energy and finishes with steadily rising length and an impression of solidity. This wine, incidentally, was spectacular from the outset. (picked on September 29 with between 12.5% and 13% potential alcohol, according to Dauvissat; 4.5 g/l acidity)

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

96-97

I tasted Dauvissat’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos assembled from tank very shortly before bottling, where it demonstrated a remarkably dense yet buoyant layering of citrus, quince, white peach, and formidably concentrated chalk, oyster shell, and iodine minerality. Citrus rind, quinine and fruit pit bitterness help extend a cleansing, gum-adhering, electrically charged, practically searing finish that foreshadows at least 15 years of glory, provided premature oxidation does not lay it low, something no one can predict, and which the track record at this address renders unlikely but unfortunately by no means unthinkable. About the prowess of this wine over the next half dozen years, though, as well as about that of Les Clos the site, I am left in no doubt by my present experience. Vincent Dauvissat points out that at least at his estate, 1996 was at once more severe yet more alcoholic and more exotic in aroma than what he terms the “more classic” vintage of 2008. Both years featured long cool growing seasons and wind-driven concentration in the late innings, but the fruit in 2008 was cleaner, and entirely botrytis-free, Dauvissat maintains. He says his 2008s come closer in character to 2002. (Incidentally, at age six months, Dauvissat’s 2009s showed promising vivacity and mineral inflection for their vintage.)

Vinous

Vinous

96

Bright medium yellow. At once penetrating and refined on the nose, with high-pitched aromas of lemon, orange zest and oyster shell accented by cinnamon and ginger spice notes. Wonderfully juicy and vibrant in the middle palate, conveying an impression of outstanding tactile density without weight. Flavors of pineapple, white pepper and salty minerality are at once generous and chewy. This beautifully balanced, fresh grand cru boasts outstanding inner-mouth energy and finishes with steadily rising length and an impression of solidity. This wine, incidentally, was spectacular from the outset. (picked on September 29 with between 12.5% and 13% potential alcohol, according to Dauvissat; 4.5 g/l acidity)