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2008 Domaine Meo Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru, Le Rognet et Corton

Regular price $235
/
2008 Domaine Meo Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru, Le Rognet et Corton

2008 Domaine Meo Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru, Le Rognet et Corton

Regular price $235
/
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One of the more recognizable and respected labels in Burgundy, Meo-Camuzet was long in the practice of leasing most of their vineyards every year. In 1985, Jean-Nicolas Meo took the helm of the family estate and as the long-term leases came to an end, decided to vinify his own wines, calling upon the help of one Henri Jayer. Jean-Nicolas still directs the winemaking, following Jayer's principles to this day with an impressive array of vineyards, including six Grand Crus.

Domaine Meo Camuzet

What is now a 14-hectare estate in Vosne-Romanee was for decades in the hands of share-croppers, or vignerons who leased the prized plots from the Camuzet family. So it was that Henri Jayer had access to such phenomenal plots for decades as the sources of his legendary wines. Jayer would be called upon in 1985 to guide the hand of the new generation, Jean-Nicolas Meo, and his teachings are being handed down to the newest generation who study under their father now.

With consistency in the vineyard - the same vineyard manager, Christian Faurois for 45 years until his retirement in 2018 - and the cellar, the Meo-Camuzet wines have come to be known for both their finesse and their intensity; rarely can the two so seamlessly be achieved, but the combination lends itself to phenomenal, long-lasting wines. It does help to have an ample supply of Grand Crus - six, between the Cote de Nuits and Corton - and Premier Crus - 10 in total! - from which to craft their wines.

In the cellar, after a careful sorting, the grapes are largely de-stemmed and allowed to macerate on their skins for 3-5 days, allowing fermentations to begin naturally. The vinification will carry out for about 3 weeks with some temperature control, and the only punch-downs will occur at the very end. The portion of new (François Freres) oak will depend on the vineyard and vintage, up to 100% for the Grand Crus, though sometimes for the village wines there is no new oak. Bottling is done via gravity flow without filtering.

Jean-Nicolas expanded his family's business to include a negociant label called Meo-Camuzet Freres et Soeurs, where the winemaking and vineyard is the same, though not from the family's own plots.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Meo Camuzet

One of the more recognizable and respected labels in Burgundy, Meo-Camuzet was long in the practice of leasing most of their vineyards every year. In 1985, Jean-Nicolas Meo took the helm of the family estate and as the long-term leases came to an end, decided to vinify his own wines, calling upon the help of one Henri Jayer. Jean-Nicolas still directs the winemaking, following Jayer's principles to this day with an impressive array of vineyards, including six Grand Crus.

What is now a 14-hectare estate in Vosne-Romanee was for decades in the hands of share-croppers, or vignerons who leased the prized plots from the Camuzet family. So it was that Henri Jayer had access to such phenomenal plots for decades as the sources of his legendary wines. Jayer would be called upon in 1985 to guide the hand of the new generation, Jean-Nicolas Meo, and his teachings are being handed down to the newest generation who study under their father now.

With consistency in the vineyard - the same vineyard manager, Christian Faurois for 45 years until his retirement in 2018 - and the cellar, the Meo-Camuzet wines have come to be known for both their finesse and their intensity; rarely can the two so seamlessly be achieved, but the combination lends itself to phenomenal, long-lasting wines. It does help to have an ample supply of Grand Crus - six, between the Cote de Nuits and Corton - and Premier Crus - 10 in total! - from which to craft their wines.

In the cellar, after a careful sorting, the grapes are largely de-stemmed and allowed to macerate on their skins for 3-5 days, allowing fermentations to begin naturally. The vinification will carry out for about 3 weeks with some temperature control, and the only punch-downs will occur at the very end. The portion of new (François Freres) oak will depend on the vineyard and vintage, up to 100% for the Grand Crus, though sometimes for the village wines there is no new oak. Bottling is done via gravity flow without filtering.

Jean-Nicolas expanded his family's business to include a negociant label called Meo-Camuzet Freres et Soeurs, where the winemaking and vineyard is the same, though not from the family's own plots.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

91

The sappy, jam-like intensity to the black fruits in Meo’s 2008 Corton Clos Rognet as well as their resinous and medicinal overlay and bold accompanying tannins won’t be every pinotphile’s dream. But this is certainly not just a powerful Pinot but also a powerful representation of Corton minerality in its sense of stony underpinnings. A vintage-typical tartness of berry skin helps enliven the otherwise sweet, rich, yet at the same time tannic and stony finish. If you like the style and have some faith, this should I suspect lie forgotten in your cellar for the next 5-6 years and thereafter be savored over at least that long a period. But will the tannins here – or the sharp edges (if that’s an appropriate expression for he wine’s tart notes) – really “round out”? Or ought we to some extent to see them as simply part and parcel of the vintage character? Nicolas Meo himself responded candidly that he couldn’t be sure, but that he didn’t for a minute doubt the sheer longevity of a wine like this. Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”)

Vinous

Vinous

90

Medium red. Very ripe aromas of raspberry, caramel and smoky oak; comes across as slightly roasted following the Clos Vougeot. Fat on entry, then a bit disjointed in the middle, hinting at a wide range of ripeness. Offers intriguing soil tones but today the fruit is in the background. An awkward showing, as the wine's slightly roasted quality clashes with its brisk acidity.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

91

The sappy, jam-like intensity to the black fruits in Meo’s 2008 Corton Clos Rognet as well as their resinous and medicinal overlay and bold accompanying tannins won’t be every pinotphile’s dream. But this is certainly not just a powerful Pinot but also a powerful representation of Corton minerality in its sense of stony underpinnings. A vintage-typical tartness of berry skin helps enliven the otherwise sweet, rich, yet at the same time tannic and stony finish. If you like the style and have some faith, this should I suspect lie forgotten in your cellar for the next 5-6 years and thereafter be savored over at least that long a period. But will the tannins here – or the sharp edges (if that’s an appropriate expression for he wine’s tart notes) – really “round out”? Or ought we to some extent to see them as simply part and parcel of the vintage character? Nicolas Meo himself responded candidly that he couldn’t be sure, but that he didn’t for a minute doubt the sheer longevity of a wine like this. Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”)

Vinous

Vinous

90

Medium red. Very ripe aromas of raspberry, caramel and smoky oak; comes across as slightly roasted following the Clos Vougeot. Fat on entry, then a bit disjointed in the middle, hinting at a wide range of ripeness. Offers intriguing soil tones but today the fruit is in the background. An awkward showing, as the wine's slightly roasted quality clashes with its brisk acidity.