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2008 Domaine Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Cras 1.5L
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Still bearing the name of its founder, the famed Domaine Georges Roumier today is in the ultra-capable hands of Christophe, Georges' grandson. One of the foremost in domaine bottling in the early 20th century, today the fame is more for the unbelievably high quality that results in very few of these bottles ever on store shelves, such is the demand.

Domaine Georges Roumier

Christophe oversees about 40 acres of vines, mostly in Chambolle-Musigny where the winery itself stands, but there are vines in Morey-Saint-Denis, Charmes-Chambertin, Echezeaux and Corton-Charlemagne, to name a few of the 12 appellations the Domaine has holdings in. The hallmark is finesse, favoring purity of flavor and texture over oak presence or extraction. Christophe took over at only 24 years of age, a soft-spoken and deeply thoughtful mind who today is a sounding board for several young vignerons throughout Burgundy.

Vine age is about 40 years old on average across the Domaine. Christophe will usually retain about 20-30% of the stems for his fermentations - excluding the Bourgogne Rouge, which is entirely destemmed - and perform punchdowns throughout fermentations to aid in flavor development. Usually 15-30% new oak barrels are used, except for the Corton-Charlemagne, Bourgogne Rouge and the Musigny, both of which are fermented and aged in used barrels.

The Charmes-Chambertin and Ruchottes-Chambertin are bottled under the Christophe Roumier label, as they are longstanding vineyard leases where Christophe controls the farming of the vineyards. Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussiere is a monopole of the domaine.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Georges Roumier

Still bearing the name of its founder, the famed Domaine Georges Roumier today is in the ultra-capable hands of Christophe, Georges' grandson. One of the foremost in domaine bottling in the early 20th century, today the fame is more for the unbelievably high quality that results in very few of these bottles ever on store shelves, such is the demand.

Christophe oversees about 40 acres of vines, mostly in Chambolle-Musigny where the winery itself stands, but there are vines in Morey-Saint-Denis, Charmes-Chambertin, Echezeaux and Corton-Charlemagne, to name a few of the 12 appellations the Domaine has holdings in. The hallmark is finesse, favoring purity of flavor and texture over oak presence or extraction. Christophe took over at only 24 years of age, a soft-spoken and deeply thoughtful mind who today is a sounding board for several young vignerons throughout Burgundy.

Vine age is about 40 years old on average across the Domaine. Christophe will usually retain about 20-30% of the stems for his fermentations - excluding the Bourgogne Rouge, which is entirely destemmed - and perform punchdowns throughout fermentations to aid in flavor development. Usually 15-30% new oak barrels are used, except for the Corton-Charlemagne, Bourgogne Rouge and the Musigny, both of which are fermented and aged in used barrels.

The Charmes-Chambertin and Ruchottes-Chambertin are bottled under the Christophe Roumier label, as they are longstanding vineyard leases where Christophe controls the farming of the vineyards. Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussiere is a monopole of the domaine.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92-93

Dark cherry and its pits and tart skin; black raspberry with its seeds; cumin and mace seem to be electrically charged in the Roumier 2008 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras, with musky floral, savory red meat juice, and crushed stone dimensions on a firm palate adding riveting complexity. There is a certain textural austerity and restraint of sheer ripeness here, but what a concentrated ball of energy we have, making for a finish of spine- as well as tongue-tingling length! Look for at least 12-15 years of stimulation from this. Christophe Roumier says his 2008 fruit demanded rigorous sorting to remove under-ripe bunches (whereas in 2007 this was necessary to remove rot), but he liked what was left enough to indulge in a significant proportion (most frequently 50%) of stems and whole clusters for the fermentations. "With such tiny, perfect berries, it was almost a shame to de-stem any of them," he remarks. Late to go through malo, like so many others of that year, these 2008s certainly preserve the vintage's primary virtues of vivacity and interactive complexity. Not more than 50% new wood was employed, to guard against loss of the vintage's vividly bright fruit in a vintage Roumier felt was unusually sensitive in that regard. Some of the 2008s remind him of 1980 or, more precisely, of what the 1980s could have become given today's standards of viticulture and selection. Roumier has a higher opinion of 2007 and their age-worthiness than do I, considering them superior to 2006 or 2008 - and given the way the two that I tasted from bottle showed, that opinion is not inexplicable. (I tasted the other Roumier 2007s too early in their evolution to render proper verdicts, although they were certainly effusively generous if not yet complex even pre-malo.) Roumier employed comparable percentages of stems and whole clusters, and indulged in more frequent pigeage than in 2008, comparing his resulting 2007s with 1985s.

Vinous

Vinous

92

(vinified with 20% whole clusters): Bright, moderately saturated red. Complex nose melds raspberry, spices, flowers, minerals and a whiff of game. Juicy, precise and tightly coiled, youthfully energetic without being hard. This might be good now with some time in the decanter. Wonderfully fresh, pure, minerally wine with a persistent, lightly peppery finish. I like this style.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

92-93

Dark cherry and its pits and tart skin; black raspberry with its seeds; cumin and mace seem to be electrically charged in the Roumier 2008 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras, with musky floral, savory red meat juice, and crushed stone dimensions on a firm palate adding riveting complexity. There is a certain textural austerity and restraint of sheer ripeness here, but what a concentrated ball of energy we have, making for a finish of spine- as well as tongue-tingling length! Look for at least 12-15 years of stimulation from this. Christophe Roumier says his 2008 fruit demanded rigorous sorting to remove under-ripe bunches (whereas in 2007 this was necessary to remove rot), but he liked what was left enough to indulge in a significant proportion (most frequently 50%) of stems and whole clusters for the fermentations. "With such tiny, perfect berries, it was almost a shame to de-stem any of them," he remarks. Late to go through malo, like so many others of that year, these 2008s certainly preserve the vintage's primary virtues of vivacity and interactive complexity. Not more than 50% new wood was employed, to guard against loss of the vintage's vividly bright fruit in a vintage Roumier felt was unusually sensitive in that regard. Some of the 2008s remind him of 1980 or, more precisely, of what the 1980s could have become given today's standards of viticulture and selection. Roumier has a higher opinion of 2007 and their age-worthiness than do I, considering them superior to 2006 or 2008 - and given the way the two that I tasted from bottle showed, that opinion is not inexplicable. (I tasted the other Roumier 2007s too early in their evolution to render proper verdicts, although they were certainly effusively generous if not yet complex even pre-malo.) Roumier employed comparable percentages of stems and whole clusters, and indulged in more frequent pigeage than in 2008, comparing his resulting 2007s with 1985s.

Vinous

Vinous

92

(vinified with 20% whole clusters): Bright, moderately saturated red. Complex nose melds raspberry, spices, flowers, minerals and a whiff of game. Juicy, precise and tightly coiled, youthfully energetic without being hard. This might be good now with some time in the decanter. Wonderfully fresh, pure, minerally wine with a persistent, lightly peppery finish. I like this style.