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2008 Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
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You could view it as just an inheritance of what is now a legendary estate, but that would be shortsighted. The Mugneret sisters quickly pivoted their lives' direction when their father passed in 1988, and all they've done in the time since is elevate the domaine to the upper echelon of all Burgundy estates in existence.

Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg

The Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg was founded in 1933 by a husband and wife duo, and later Dr. Georges Mugneret helped to expand the holdings all while holding down a full time job as an ophthalmologist. Upon his passing in 1988, Christine and Mary-Andrée took it upon themselves to devote their energies to their family's legacy. They combined their father's holdings (once named Domaine Georges Mugneret) and the historical family estate into one, producing a full range of divine wines from Bourgogne to the Grand Crus.

The Mugneret vineyards are tended carefully, with very little intervention aside from tilling between the rows. All grapes are harvested by hand and undergo a rigorous selection before de-stemming. In the cellar, the wines are fermented in tank and aged in anywhere from 10 (village)-70 (Grand Crus) percent new oak.

With some 8 hectares spread over 9 appellations, the holdings here are rich, encompassing a large swath of Burgundy from the Grand Cru Ruchottes-Chambertin all the way to Nuits-Saint-Georges. Even the Grand Cru wines show effortless energy, freshness and delicacy that is seldom matched by any producer of Pinot Noir. Safe to say, the sisters have only served to add to their family's legacy.

Meet the Producer

Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg

You could view it as just an inheritance of what is now a legendary estate, but that would be shortsighted. The Mugneret sisters quickly pivoted their lives' direction when their father passed in 1988, and all they've done in the time since is elevate the domaine to the upper echelon of all Burgundy estates in existence.

The Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg was founded in 1933 by a husband and wife duo, and later Dr. Georges Mugneret helped to expand the holdings all while holding down a full time job as an ophthalmologist. Upon his passing in 1988, Christine and Mary-Andrée took it upon themselves to devote their energies to their family's legacy. They combined their father's holdings (once named Domaine Georges Mugneret) and the historical family estate into one, producing a full range of divine wines from Bourgogne to the Grand Crus.

The Mugneret vineyards are tended carefully, with very little intervention aside from tilling between the rows. All grapes are harvested by hand and undergo a rigorous selection before de-stemming. In the cellar, the wines are fermented in tank and aged in anywhere from 10 (village)-70 (Grand Crus) percent new oak.

With some 8 hectares spread over 9 appellations, the holdings here are rich, encompassing a large swath of Burgundy from the Grand Cru Ruchottes-Chambertin all the way to Nuits-Saint-Georges. Even the Grand Cru wines show effortless energy, freshness and delicacy that is seldom matched by any producer of Pinot Noir. Safe to say, the sisters have only served to add to their family's legacy.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

95

Thick, juicy, rare sirloin meatiness in Mugnerets’ 2008 Ruchottes-Chambertin is strikingly tender and served with an irresistibly, deeply savory side of slow-cooked, subtly caramelized root vegetables. Peat, musk, dark tobacco, decadent wood, and mineral salts add aromatic and palate complexity, and for all of its palpable density this preserves admirable sheer refreshment, finishing with vibratory energy, supreme lift and hard-to-explain elegance (other than to say “that’s grand cru!”). “Where’s the fruit?” you ask? Well, in the sense of fruits and berries one scarcely notices nor misses them amid such complexity and saliva-inducing, capital “U” umami. This had only just been bottled when I tasted it, but if it was suffering I couldn’t tell – and I certainly wasn’t! I would anticipate two decades of glory here. The cool concentration and acid preservation of 2008 as a vintage would seem to mirror the finely-chiseled, fresh-fruited, modest alcohol style one associates with the Mugneret sisters, but the striking and surprising thing about their collection of that vintage is its youthful richness and textural allure. (The low-pH 2008s finished at only 12-12.5% alcohol.) As Marie-Christine Mugneret points out, they dropped crop to promote ripeness and drying and as a result were optimally positioned to take advantage of the September turn in the weather … optimally, that is, except in terms of yields! Most lots did not finish malo for a full year, and I tasted the wines in February at various stages (as noted) between barrel and bottle. “The sorting we did in early September in the vineyards in 2006 all had to be done on the sorting table in 2007,” remarks Marie-Andree Mugneret, explaining that ripening was too rapid in the latter vintage – in which they began picking September 1 – to permit such a triage at the vine. Despite the relatively swift malos and ripe fruit of 2007, bottling extended all the way until July of last year (for the Chaignots), but the Mugnerets share my view that the wines should for the most part be enjoyed relatively young in the flush of their fruit. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Vinous

Vinous

94

Medium bright red. Subtle, complex aromas of raspberry, underripe cherry, minerals, white pepper, rose petal, orange rind and tamarind. Silky and chewy but light on its feet, with lovely gingery acidity energizing the middle palate. Very fine, round, elegant wine with great clarity and class. The very long finish leaves behind a subtle but persistent perfume. A beauty.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

95

Thick, juicy, rare sirloin meatiness in Mugnerets’ 2008 Ruchottes-Chambertin is strikingly tender and served with an irresistibly, deeply savory side of slow-cooked, subtly caramelized root vegetables. Peat, musk, dark tobacco, decadent wood, and mineral salts add aromatic and palate complexity, and for all of its palpable density this preserves admirable sheer refreshment, finishing with vibratory energy, supreme lift and hard-to-explain elegance (other than to say “that’s grand cru!”). “Where’s the fruit?” you ask? Well, in the sense of fruits and berries one scarcely notices nor misses them amid such complexity and saliva-inducing, capital “U” umami. This had only just been bottled when I tasted it, but if it was suffering I couldn’t tell – and I certainly wasn’t! I would anticipate two decades of glory here. The cool concentration and acid preservation of 2008 as a vintage would seem to mirror the finely-chiseled, fresh-fruited, modest alcohol style one associates with the Mugneret sisters, but the striking and surprising thing about their collection of that vintage is its youthful richness and textural allure. (The low-pH 2008s finished at only 12-12.5% alcohol.) As Marie-Christine Mugneret points out, they dropped crop to promote ripeness and drying and as a result were optimally positioned to take advantage of the September turn in the weather … optimally, that is, except in terms of yields! Most lots did not finish malo for a full year, and I tasted the wines in February at various stages (as noted) between barrel and bottle. “The sorting we did in early September in the vineyards in 2006 all had to be done on the sorting table in 2007,” remarks Marie-Andree Mugneret, explaining that ripening was too rapid in the latter vintage – in which they began picking September 1 – to permit such a triage at the vine. Despite the relatively swift malos and ripe fruit of 2007, bottling extended all the way until July of last year (for the Chaignots), but the Mugnerets share my view that the wines should for the most part be enjoyed relatively young in the flush of their fruit. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Vinous

Vinous

94

Medium bright red. Subtle, complex aromas of raspberry, underripe cherry, minerals, white pepper, rose petal, orange rind and tamarind. Silky and chewy but light on its feet, with lovely gingery acidity energizing the middle palate. Very fine, round, elegant wine with great clarity and class. The very long finish leaves behind a subtle but persistent perfume. A beauty.