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2007 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos

Regular price $395
/
2007 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos

2007 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos

Regular price $395
/
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While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Vincent Dauvissat

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.

Meet the Producer

Vincent Dauvissat

While we had the short-lived quest for steely Chablis, there have largely only been two camps among collectors: Raveneau and Dauvissat. Both superb, Dauvissat is the more traditional, classic Chablis style that every new producer seems to aspire to.

Since Vincent joined his father Rene in the 1970s, the Dauvissat label has been a beacon of quality to every drinker and collector. Blessed with enviable holdings from Petit-Chablis through to the Grand Crus of Clos and Preuses, Dauvissat crafts wines of inimitable quality and longevity.

Les Clos and Les Preuses are two of the top Grand Crus in all of Chablis, yes; Premier Cru La Forêt, (otherwise known as "Forest") has a similar outlay with the classic Kimmeridgian soils and cool climate, generating the same sort of density and honeyed essence that the Grand Crus possess.

Other Premier Crus in the range - Sechet, Montmains, Vaillons - are vivid and vibrant; the village Chablis comes from nearby La Forêt and the Petit Chablis is often the latest to be harvested as it sits just above Les Clos at high elevation.

The grapes are crushed while still whole-cluster, preserving natural pH levels; fermentations are then carried out in enamel-lined tanks and some barrels, then aged in 6-8 year old barrels. Barrel aging is important for the style as they do not aim for reduction but rather ample oxygen interchange for their developing wines.

There is also a Dauvissat-Camus label, where the wines are made identically; the vines are simply owned by other members of the Dauvissat family.


The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

95

Like this year’s La Forest, Dauvissat’s 2007 Chablis Les Clos seems palpably stony and chalky, yet boasts considerable gloss. It also displays a mollusk broth like dimension, here allied to sense of weight and sheer extract that none of the premier crus in this collection can claim. Hints of lanolin and vanilla make one aware of the barrel presence, and a toasted nut element helps lend a sense of richness as well as piquancy to what is otherwise a decidedly mineral-dominated as well as formidably long finish. It’s hard to imagine this (by Dauvissat’s own admission) massively dense wine ever achieving the elegance or mystery of the La Forest – let’s see in a few years – but as an expression of Kimmeridgian essence, it’s quite an achievement, and one sure to merit a dozen or more years’ attention. Incidentally, this clearly blessed vineyard parcel lies between one of the two owned by Fevre and La Moutonne. Vincent Dauvissat (whose father Renee’s name has been removed from that of the domaine, a fact I neglected to reflect in my Issue 179 coverage) harvested between September 11 and 21 a crop entirely in keeping with his estate’s awesome track record. But things were not looking good, he says, until the north wind arrived to banish incipient botrytis and permit felicitous, healthy concentration. Hail trimmed some of his crop of generic Chablis and Vaillons, but left the foliage unscathed, he reports, so that fruit maturation was not retarded. The premier crus came in at not much over 12% natural alcohol and were lightly chaptalized, more to extend their fermentations, insists Dauvissat, than to boost body.

Vinous

Vinous

96

The 2007 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is showstopping on the nose with yellow plum, pressed white flowers, crushed pebbles and a dab of wild mint/fennel. Wonderful delineation. The palate is beginning to stretch its arms with stunning balance, still extremely citrus-driven and tensile, gaining weight and depth towards the finish. You feel that this is just starting to enter a sweet spot. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

95

Like this year’s La Forest, Dauvissat’s 2007 Chablis Les Clos seems palpably stony and chalky, yet boasts considerable gloss. It also displays a mollusk broth like dimension, here allied to sense of weight and sheer extract that none of the premier crus in this collection can claim. Hints of lanolin and vanilla make one aware of the barrel presence, and a toasted nut element helps lend a sense of richness as well as piquancy to what is otherwise a decidedly mineral-dominated as well as formidably long finish. It’s hard to imagine this (by Dauvissat’s own admission) massively dense wine ever achieving the elegance or mystery of the La Forest – let’s see in a few years – but as an expression of Kimmeridgian essence, it’s quite an achievement, and one sure to merit a dozen or more years’ attention. Incidentally, this clearly blessed vineyard parcel lies between one of the two owned by Fevre and La Moutonne. Vincent Dauvissat (whose father Renee’s name has been removed from that of the domaine, a fact I neglected to reflect in my Issue 179 coverage) harvested between September 11 and 21 a crop entirely in keeping with his estate’s awesome track record. But things were not looking good, he says, until the north wind arrived to banish incipient botrytis and permit felicitous, healthy concentration. Hail trimmed some of his crop of generic Chablis and Vaillons, but left the foliage unscathed, he reports, so that fruit maturation was not retarded. The premier crus came in at not much over 12% natural alcohol and were lightly chaptalized, more to extend their fermentations, insists Dauvissat, than to boost body.

Vinous

Vinous

96

The 2007 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is showstopping on the nose with yellow plum, pressed white flowers, crushed pebbles and a dab of wild mint/fennel. Wonderful delineation. The palate is beginning to stretch its arms with stunning balance, still extremely citrus-driven and tensile, gaining weight and depth towards the finish. You feel that this is just starting to enter a sweet spot. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.