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Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

2007 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

France Chardonnay Burgundy Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 750ML

Wine Advocate

93

Vinous

96
/
2007 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

2007 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

France Chardonnay Burgundy Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 750ML

Wine Advocate

93

Vinous

96
/
7 In Stock

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The moniker "PYCM" intimates quality to any well-heeled collector, an immediate feel of comfort in knowing what lies beneath those off-white wax capsules. Colin-Morey has made a name for himself and his wines that few have successfully done without sacrificing quality, which he has not.

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

From his cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey oversees an enviable palate of different vineyards from seemingly every white wine climat in Burgundy. Along with his inheritance of fine vineyards from his father Marc Colin, for whose domaine Pierre-Yves was winemaker from 1994-2005, Colin has expanded his range with purchases and leases in some of the best plots from Chassagne, Puligny, Meursault, Saint-Aubin and beyond. His small-parcel bottlings from Grand Crus and lesser-known lieu dits are all possessing his winemaking signature of native yeasts and in-barrel fermentations, allowing for similar elegance in each bottling.

The attention is great in the vineyard, where whether the vineyard is owned or leased, the farming is similarly fastidious, opting to harvest at perfect ripeness across all parcels. Grapes are pressed at slightly higher pressure than is common, allowing the natural phenolics to provide texture and add even more aging potential. Wines are fermented in 350L barrels and do not undergo any lees stirring, fining or filtering before bottling.

Meet the Producer

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

The moniker "PYCM" intimates quality to any well-heeled collector, an immediate feel of comfort in knowing what lies beneath those off-white wax capsules. Colin-Morey has made a name for himself and his wines that few have successfully done without sacrificing quality, which he has not.

From his cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey oversees an enviable palate of different vineyards from seemingly every white wine climat in Burgundy. Along with his inheritance of fine vineyards from his father Marc Colin, for whose domaine Pierre-Yves was winemaker from 1994-2005, Colin has expanded his range with purchases and leases in some of the best plots from Chassagne, Puligny, Meursault, Saint-Aubin and beyond. His small-parcel bottlings from Grand Crus and lesser-known lieu dits are all possessing his winemaking signature of native yeasts and in-barrel fermentations, allowing for similar elegance in each bottling.

The attention is great in the vineyard, where whether the vineyard is owned or leased, the farming is similarly fastidious, opting to harvest at perfect ripeness across all parcels. Grapes are pressed at slightly higher pressure than is common, allowing the natural phenolics to provide texture and add even more aging potential. Wines are fermented in 350L barrels and do not undergo any lees stirring, fining or filtering before bottling.

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

The Colin 2007 Batard-Montrachet -- from centrally-located 50 year old vines – positively crawls up the nostrils in its intense amalgam of pit fruit distillate; smoky black tea; lemon and grapefruit; and heliotrope. Citrus traverses the palate like an electric current, enlivening a dense concentrate of lightly caramelized peach, nut paste, and chalk, that is almost custard-like in texture. This finishes with tremendous force and grip. Like the corresponding Corton-Charlemagne, I have the feeling that it could exhibit something of a split personality on any given day in its youth. Today, all cylinders are certainly firing – and nearly in sync – even if the result is more formidable than loveable. Give this a few years – if you are lucky enough to acquire some bottles – and I would not be surprised to see it reward a decade of attention. Pierre-Yves Colin – who openly pledges allegiance to Riesling virtues – does more than just talk the talk of achieving ripe fruit at low levels of potential alcohol. Finished alcohols in his collection – after half a percent or so of chaptalization – range from a (for modern times almost astonishing) 11.75% up to 12.75%. “I really can’t say,” he confesses, “why so many growers were getting fruit of 12.5% or more potential alcohol already at the end of August,” ten days before Colin even began picking, but he can say he doubts their fruit tasted ripe then! Half of the acreage he accesses is in Saint-Aubin – naturally conducive to later ripening – and was not picked until past mid-September this year. Colin believes in minimal settling, by gravity, and retaining lots of lees, but not in actively working them; favors rapid pressing, and 350- (one-third new) over 225-liter barrels; and welcomes late and protracted malo-lactic conversions – although this vintage's malos were completed by the following June. He bottled his Saint-Aubin crus at just over a year; his other premier crus this past March; and the grands crus (of which I was unfortunately unable to taste the Chevalier-Montrachet) in May, sealing them all with wax, in the belief that this will provide extra protection against harmful oxygen ingress. For myriad further details on this relatively new estate and its rapidly-growing family of wines – nearly half of which are from contract fruit – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180, where – having up until then not seen a label – I inadvertently left-off the “-Morey” from the winery name

Vinous

Vinous

96

Pale yellow. Very sexy aromas of orange blossom, oily peach, pineapple and smoky lees. At once thick and bracing, with outstanding concentration and layered texture. This huge wine shows strong vanillin oak and outstanding sucrosite that no doubt had a lot to do with the fact that it only finished fermenting its sugars in December of 2008. The parcel is in Chassagne-Montrachet, but at the border with Puligny. Incidentally, Colin sealed his 2007s with soft wax capsules in an attempt to give his bottles additional protection against oxidation.

What the Critics are Saying

The Wine Advocate

Wine Advocate

93

The Colin 2007 Batard-Montrachet -- from centrally-located 50 year old vines – positively crawls up the nostrils in its intense amalgam of pit fruit distillate; smoky black tea; lemon and grapefruit; and heliotrope. Citrus traverses the palate like an electric current, enlivening a dense concentrate of lightly caramelized peach, nut paste, and chalk, that is almost custard-like in texture. This finishes with tremendous force and grip. Like the corresponding Corton-Charlemagne, I have the feeling that it could exhibit something of a split personality on any given day in its youth. Today, all cylinders are certainly firing – and nearly in sync – even if the result is more formidable than loveable. Give this a few years – if you are lucky enough to acquire some bottles – and I would not be surprised to see it reward a decade of attention. Pierre-Yves Colin – who openly pledges allegiance to Riesling virtues – does more than just talk the talk of achieving ripe fruit at low levels of potential alcohol. Finished alcohols in his collection – after half a percent or so of chaptalization – range from a (for modern times almost astonishing) 11.75% up to 12.75%. “I really can’t say,” he confesses, “why so many growers were getting fruit of 12.5% or more potential alcohol already at the end of August,” ten days before Colin even began picking, but he can say he doubts their fruit tasted ripe then! Half of the acreage he accesses is in Saint-Aubin – naturally conducive to later ripening – and was not picked until past mid-September this year. Colin believes in minimal settling, by gravity, and retaining lots of lees, but not in actively working them; favors rapid pressing, and 350- (one-third new) over 225-liter barrels; and welcomes late and protracted malo-lactic conversions – although this vintage's malos were completed by the following June. He bottled his Saint-Aubin crus at just over a year; his other premier crus this past March; and the grands crus (of which I was unfortunately unable to taste the Chevalier-Montrachet) in May, sealing them all with wax, in the belief that this will provide extra protection against harmful oxygen ingress. For myriad further details on this relatively new estate and its rapidly-growing family of wines – nearly half of which are from contract fruit – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180, where – having up until then not seen a label – I inadvertently left-off the “-Morey” from the winery name

Vinous

Vinous

96

Pale yellow. Very sexy aromas of orange blossom, oily peach, pineapple and smoky lees. At once thick and bracing, with outstanding concentration and layered texture. This huge wine shows strong vanillin oak and outstanding sucrosite that no doubt had a lot to do with the fact that it only finished fermenting its sugars in December of 2008. The parcel is in Chassagne-Montrachet, but at the border with Puligny. Incidentally, Colin sealed his 2007s with soft wax capsules in an attempt to give his bottles additional protection against oxidation.